You will be able to modify the kit if you like but it will come out of the box designed to work well and blow your socks off. We are already discussing modifications for the more crazier people like me. I will be using a 55 Kompressor ECU with my kit to test that out, but Web3.0 has already broken that new ground in the last couple of weeks. My intention is to turbo the car with the 55K ECU and then let Jerry at Eurocharged tune it. My whole idea of boosting my car was just so that I could use the 55K ECU which will solve my starting from the key issue which I have had ever since installing the V8. for those who may not know, to start my car, I turn the key to the on position and then hit a starter button a few times until it starts.

 

It will be nice to have a bolt in package that works. Every car I have added turbo too needed to have a boost controller, and wide band controller for proper boost control and wideband for tuning... That equals a lot of headaches and hope that somebody can tune your car right. This sounds like a solid plan and I need to start working more overtime!!!

 

Yes... THANKS very much Lantana.. All apprehension from my side has been washed away.
When it comes time for the deposit, I'll be aiming to cut a larger check than the requested 200.(I'm aiming for a grand..will see) I figure it's the least I can do for 'rocking the boat' and it sort of helps me in the long run (that much less cash remaining to scrounge up).
Sincerely, Steve F.

 

Boost level on a turbo is controlled by the wastegate spring rating. If an 8 lb spring is installed, you "should" see a boost pressure in the 7 - 9 psi range. Many things have an effect on this, pressure drop from cooling of the charge air, temperature of the spring, ambient temperatures, quality of both the spring and wastegate, overall design of the system.

An external wastegate performs better with less potential exhaust restriction, but will generally cost more. A wastegate controlled only by the spring rating, will actually begin to creep open long before reaching the actual rating. A wastegate with an 8 lb spring will be full open around 8 lbs of boost, not suddenly open at 8 lbs.

It is very common to see bost pressure fluctuations using only a spring to control the pressure. A manual boost controller can be used to help a setup to reach the full potential or to actually run more boost by bleeding off some of the pressure going to the wastegate. Because of the early opening of the wastegate before full pressure, this has a big impact on the potential torque and power curves. They become sluggish.

To get the most out of a turbo setup, one needs to run a "smart" style of electronic boost controller that can read the pressure and make adjustments to the solenoid via pulse width modulation. In this manner, the wastegate is held fully closed much longer, and reaches the desired boost much faster, and can make adjustments to counteract any boost pressure drop off that can occur as the vehicle moves faster and the actual engine load begins to drop off.

While many systems come solely with the basic wastegate, the vast majority will seek out a higher end electronic boost controller for the control and performance gains it provides.

Most system don't come with an AFR gauge, however, running a turbo without one is placing a lot of faith in the tuning, AND that nothing is going to go wrong or some other component fail. A $250 AEM UEGO afr gauge is cheap insurance and peace of mind.

Unless you have an OEM turbo setup where the PCM is designed to control boost either via the wastegate or BOV (sometimes both), an NA factory PCM will never be able to do this. The SRT6 PCM is not going to do this either, it is supercharged, and boost is a primary factor of engine rpm, not load which is what drives a turbo. While the SRT6 PCM might make an alternative for fuel and timing related control, boost pressure will always be a function of the wastegate control used and the external factors as mentioned above that can have an effect on it.

While I am not saying that electronic boost control and AFR gauge should be included, the serious owner will want them in short order. Two identical vehicles, running same boost levels, one only controlled by the wastegate spring, and the other running a smart EBC, the one with the EBC will always come out on top.

 

Thanks for the info. Corky is aware of everything you mention. I talked to Corky a while back on waste gates and at that time he hadn't decided on the type he would use. I do know that he will also be running a bypass valve and not a blow off valve. If you have concerns, I am sure he would love to hear from you. Feel free to give him a call. After all the conversations I have had with him, I don't have a single concern. He has been doing this a very long time. I also know that he is capable of producing a kit iwth OEM fit and performance.

 

Yes the moderator permits idiots in here. M/B p/n for the C230 airbox we'll need ?
V/R
2005 Ragtop

 

Less an airbox, more a plastic cover.

 

I was merely trying to provide some educational information to those who do not understand all the basics and differences involved with forced induction. I have been designing and manufacturing turbo systems for quite some time as well, all being Mopar specific applications.

The primary difference between a BOV and a bypass valve is what it does with the charge air. The BOV is commonly used to vent to atmosphere, the bypass to vent the charge air back into the airstream because of MAF sensor/fuel ratio issues if the metered air is vented and unaccounted for. The same device can be used for either function. If the device is made with an outlet that can have a tube connected to it for rerouting the expended charge air, it could be used as either. A lot of "BOV's" are made with multiple or 360 degree outlets, so they can only vent to atmosphere. The larger the valve opening and the larger the outlet size, will generally result in a faster responding device.

Sizing can come into play when dealing with the same vehicle/design and running a manual or an automatic. An automatic will have a smoother and generally higher overall HP/Torque curve through the shifts as one does not have to snap off the throttle during shifts. The automatic will carry more boost and power through a shift and reach full boost faster after the shift because the BOV/Bypass did not open and dump all the boost, taking longer to recover.

In the case of a manual, it may be an advantage to run an undersized BOV/bypass, unless the driver can speed shift without lifting the throttle.

I am sure Corky will build a very fine system for you for the money. If you feel my intent is to make negative comments, I can assure that is not my intent. If you would prefer I refrain from commenting in your thread, I will oblige and no ill will.

 

No problem with your posts unless they suggest a problem or missing consideration. In those cases I would prefer that you call Corky and disciss it. He is a great guy to talk to and you would enjoy comparing notes with him. For those who want to really get into the science involved here, I would highly suggest you get Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. There is more good info there than could ever be covered here. When Talking to Corky it was apparent he hates blow off valves and preferes by-pass valves which of course do the same thing. corky doesn't like them becuase of the sound. He preferes to build a kit to OEM standards for quiet and excellent drivability. That is correct that you would never want to vent air that has been metered. Placement of the MAF will dictate how the bypass valve is plumbed.

 

John,
Congrats on the SRT-6. Many thanks for the p/n. Ya think the missus will find the planned paddle shift more intuitive than the manual ? Again, thank you.

 

Both cars I have added turbos too, I have ran an AEM Boostcontroller and wideband... They work ed great and took up the least amount of space. Pricing is reasonable too.... And I'm not a bov fan either, unlease its recirculated and quiet....Again, cops love cars with added turbos in CA,,,, BOV is just as bad as a modified exhaust sometimes...

 

You can count me in! Tax season makes so many things possible lol.

 

Great to Hear! I have added you to the list. No one should worry where they are on the list. Corky doesn't mind getting too many deposits. He will build for anyone who send a deposit. I would urge anyone who really wants this to get in when deposits are due. I can't guarantee the price won't increase when he starts building for individuals in the future.

 

Add me to the list.
Where, or how do we submit down??

 

I second this question

 

I have added you to the list.

We are still waiting for to hear from DJ on the date to give his car to Corky but it looks like we will need to send deposits to Corky around the first week of January. Anyone who is getting nervous about hiding money from the spouse can send anytime now. Make Checks out to Bell Engineering Group and send attn: Corky Bell at the address on post #1 In addition to your name, include your forum name so that we can keep track of people. Also post on here or send me a PM if you have sent a check. Thank you everyone! This is getting very exciting! Does having BEGi/Corky Bell with Kleemann consulting get any better???

 

Ive got a question and hopefully you could answer. My bank has "Bill Payer" you type in the address and amount and it pays electronically. I believe you can type a note as well, being that I dont have checks do you think this would work? It would make it a hell of alot easier for me being as its a couple minutes online.

 

I do the same thing with my Capital One account. Set up Bell Engineering Grouo, Inc. as a payee and then send payment.

 

Awesome that eliminates alot of risk factors for me. lol

 

I wish I could send Corky paypal haha. I write 1 or 2 checks a year and everything else is set up as EFT.