Do you have any idea how long I've been searching for this??? I've 'babied' this clutch for over a year while searching! LOL
(If I'm going to replace something, I always try and go for an upgrade)
Awesome...Thanks for this.

I'm thinking 'Stage 3', unfortunately, it's an un-educated thought...so suggestions are welcome.

 

They are listed on Ebay:

chrysler crossfire clutch | eBay

 

I would give it a little while, frankeyser is emailing the manufacturer for tq ratings on the clutches. He asked the supplier and they had no idea.... I also had been looking every now and again for these with no luck... It was brought up recently in another thread. Just baby that clutch a little while longer until we get a response .. If you look at the page, stage 2 and 3 are the same price with 2+ being more. If stage 3 is inbetween 2 and 2+ then thats what I will be getting... Im just confused on their ranking system, but we will know more soon hopefully.

 

I think stage 2 would be more than ample for the turbo kids. If we're putting out more power than the stage 2 clutch can handle, the internals of the motor will likely be the next weakest point.

Something tells me stage 3 would be a grabby sumbeech.

For the stock folks, or people with basic intake/exhaust/tune, stage 1 would be best as drivability wouldn't suffer.

I still want hard numbers though.

 

I want good numbers down the road but I wont make a decision on a clutch until I see those numbers. I plan on the turbo being my temp fix until I start getting a bit more power hungry, but I need to seriously sit with the tq readings and decide my ultimate goals...

I bet that stage 3 is a grabby "sumbeech" lol

 

A very timley post and Informative as well.

That's some good Looking out there Sk8erjosh09

Turbos and Race Clutches!

Whod a Thunk.

 

I was talking goals on top of the turbo and a clutch to match those. I figure Im gonna have this car quite a while, might as well learn all I can now and get experience dealing with a Mercedes.. Which I have come to like greatly

 

From what I've learned on here.. beyond TURBO your looking at nickle and dime increases.. our stock NA motors probably won't go much further.

 

Look up green ghost, he has an awesome paint on his.

 

SPEC is a very good company, stage 3 is very grabby, literally on or off. I had one made for my SRT-4, was a hybrid, one side ceramic, one side composite. Had no problem with 330 hp at the wheels on M&H slicks. Still had decent drivability.

 

I am leaning towards stage 2 or stage 2+. I have actually emailed and called SPEC directly in Bessemer, AL. I am trying to find out their manufacture. I may have screwed myself because I left off the email and phone call with a "Roll Tide." I probably sent the email and left the voicemail for a 'War Eagle" and will never hear back.

Considering I am currently wearing a "Bear" Bryant Houndstooth fedora I really had no choice when it comes to the "Roll Tide."

If anyone else also wants to give it a go their contact info is:
Spec Clutch
S.P.E.C., Inc.
2490 Five Star Parkway
Bessemer, Alabama 35022
Orders: 1-800-828-4379
Tech: 205-491-8581
Fax: 205-491-8593

In my messages I said around 10 of us would probably be looking to purchase, hoping it would get us an answer back.

I also asked if they could not give us exact numbers if the could give us a percentage range over OEM for stage 1-3.

I did get information from them earlier that Stage 1-2+ are all very streetable and that you can not really feel the difference between them. But of those three 2+ would of course have a higher torque capacity.

In my follow up message I went over our plans and pressed for hard numbers.

If anyone gets farther than I have please update!

 

Forgive me if its already been discussed, but what considerations for the dual mass flywheel have been accounted for?

I'm by no means an expert on the matter but arent dual mass flywheels specifically designed for an application with a specific torque/hp rating.

I would be cautious adding significant amounts of power without addressing this, especially when considering a grip happy clutch, from what I've read these are not cheap to replace.

Of course the above is moot if you can replace the DM and stock clutch for a custom aluminum wheel, and stronger clutch pack.

Any insight for the manuals?

 

Hi Steve, I have added you to the list. Thank you!

 

SPEC Clutch info update:

Francis,

Thank you for your inquiry.* The stage 1 holds 275 ft lbs tq, and the stage 2 holds 315 ft lbs.* Additionally, the st2+ holds 353 and st3+ 433.** The most popular stages for the Crossfire in order are st2, 2+ and 3+.* Regards,

SPECTech**

Looks like 2+ for me.

 

Full list of clutch torque capacities

Hello, I hope all is well. Sorry for the delay in my response. Please see
the stage clutch and the torque capacity
below:

SE711=265
SE712=300
SE713h=340
SE713=365
SE713+=425
SE714=365
SE715=515

**Number in foot pounds of TQ

 

this list was from a seller not SPEC themselves. I think that is why the numbers are a little lower.

 

So with the new numbers were looking at with the turbo, we need at least 2+? Im starting to think I may just go for the grabby 3 and adapt.

 

I really think for me the 2+ is going to be more than enough for the turbo, my current mods and the SD headers when they are ready.

I have not been on a 1/4 mile in 8 years and only occasionally hit road courses. I just love zipping through the curvy sierra roads and occasionally racing the other tenants of my office building for laughs (with their turbo charged porches and Vettes I am always left behind, man I should have bought an srt6 haha.) If I was going to be on the track all the time I would defiantly look into the 3 though.

But who knows maybe I should wait to get all the parts installed, hit a dyno and then decide what clutch to snag but I really do not think I am going to hit over 330hp.

 

Once we see numbers from the prototypes hopefully the decision will become more clear. Im flip flopping every time I think about it lol. I know I will track it, rarely, but I just want to make sure everything is as reliable if not more than stock. Getting parts rated for more than needed is usually a good way to go about that. Then I start thinking, what if the clutch is a absolute b*&%@ to drive. Its my DD so that would severely suck.

 

Getting parts that hold up to more than stock does not necessaily equate to being more reliable. There are reasons those components hold the tolerences they do and it is to make sure other components do not fail because of them, i.e. it is a lot cheaper to replace a clutch than an entire transmission, hence it is the part designed to give before the tranny gets damaged. When you go replacing certain parts with 'bulletproof' race style parts you make the next, probably more expensive part bear the load. We have some forged internals and other goodies to help, but just be careful with how much clutch you put on it in the name of reliability if you will rarely ever race the car...

Just my $0.02