These are also the symptoms if the MAF/IAT is faulty ( or unplugged ).
This is the sensor located in the 90 degree plastic pipe that connects to the throttle body.

 

Yes, i know but the fact is that when the MAF sensor is disconnected and/or faulty, there is forcibily a CEL showing up.

Basically, what should be a good value for the MAF sensor @idle thru OBD real-time diagnostic ?

 

Check the IAT reading, it should be close to ambient temp when car is first started.
If the OBD readout is -20 degrees, then it is faulty / disconnected.

I have the UltraGauge in my roadster and monitor the IAT, but not the MAF, so I don't know about that reading .....

( also, I do not get a CEL with mine disconnected )

 

AS you can see, I have to unplug my MAF/IAT in order to remove the engine cover, I have been known to forget to reconnect it, that how I know what the symptoms are .....

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...ine_cover2.jpg

 

I'm sorry, i'm french and i don't understand IAT, could you please describe what are this acronym for ?
Thanks !


Damn engineers ! Why the hell did they put Diagnostics Trouble Codes if it can't alert when such a problem is present !

 

[QUOTE=simkard;689127]I'm sorry, i'm french and i don't understand IAT, could you please describe what are this acronym for ?
Thanks !

IAT = Intake Air Temperature
MAF = Mass Air Flow

both functions are incorporated into the same physical sensor.

 

[quote=alaxfire;689129]Ok, thanks, this is a good thing to know.
But again, the MAF should report its value thru OBD real-time diagnostics. (mine does)
If you can tell me what is your value(s) at idle when the engine is hot, it would be very good and smart from you.


Thanks !


PS : or if anybody can do the same for comparing here, it would be very cool too !

 

By the way, i'm sure that my MAF/IAT sensor is firmly connected, i tried to pull it and it was well connected/locked.
If the values coming out of it are weird (based on OBD diagnostics), i will try and have a look at it and clean the concacts.


PS : Is there a way to clean the sensor ? (with alcohol or something that is not dangerous for the sensor)

 

MAF cleaner. You can get it at any local auto parts store.
I used this one:
It was recommended by a mechanic when I was having a surging idle problem.

 

Sorry but I don't know that one, wish I could help you more but you may have to Google that , or wait for someone else to answer

 

If my MAF is problematic, i found those on eBay

Cheap MAF sensors ! GOOOOOOD !!! about 40/50 USD S/H included :
0 280 217 515 | eBay

 

I checked my MAF reading with my ultragauge yesterday. It was changing from 3.000 to 3.110. This was on a manual, in neutral, parked, the engine temp was 201. Hope this helps!

 

Based on your values, my sensor seems fine.
Here is my report (done with "Movi Pro v1.0.6 on Mac OSX) :


So i will have to look somewhere else ... like the famous CAM/CRANK-SHAFT POSITION SENSOR ...
Possibly vacuum leaks like on the top carter where hoses are connected ... possibly gasket leaks (the black liquid gasket).
OR ... I should check and disassemble the MAF/O'ring to see if the are any intake air leaks ...

But for now ... i will try the 2 CPS sensors which i received but i don't have yet received the female torx plugs ...


Another thing, i did the engine oil flush today.
I used a liquid that is put inside the old engine oil to clean the inside of the engine.
I filled up the engine with new oil and replaced the oil filter/circular gaskets ... but nothing changed at all ... but at least, this is done !
The engine reacts really better than before, this is a good point


... But still shaky, haha



See you guys, i'll keep you in touch !


PS : One last thing, i'm doubting about the O2 sensors values ... i think they must be quite identical and they are not !
I don't know if someone can check with his/her engine.

Thanks !

 

I have just been reading some of these "engine shakes" issues because my XF is doing the same thing. Not a bad shake but it runs a little rough at idle. Did this while I test drove it thinking it may be a dirtly air filter or mis-firing spark plug so I was not too worried about since the car had only 32,000 miles when I bought it 3 months ago. Since then it has stalled on me 3 times sitting at a traffic light. I now put the car in neutral to give it a bit more rpm's. Shouldn't have to do that though so I am a bit disappointed but other than that LOVE this car. I have the V6 Convertable. I was looking at changing the fuel filter but looks like that may not be the issue. I used to work on old muscle cars in the 70's but have gotten out of the habit and the cars now are a ton more "Smarter" with all these sensors.

I will keep watch on this forum incase somebody figures out what the problem is.

 

@Lylemmac59 Change your CPS. seems like everybody has to.

Anyways, im at 103k, and i got a rough idle in park. If i accelerate quick or it precisely 80mph (which i believe is 3000rpm) it will jolt & turn off and my CPS code is thrown on the CEL. Also even driving normally i have no power at all.

 

I would have the fuel pressure checked, it is possible that there is a fuel starvation problem due to a failing pump.

 

Crankshaft Position Sensors fail on a lot of other cars as well.... It will display rough idle, or will cause the car to die. It will continue to get worse until it fails altogether. Usually a rough idle is consistant with a vacuum leak. So even though all those hoses look connected, it can have cracks in them not readily visable. Check the throttle body bolts haven't loosened up... You really need to do a good inspection by removing everything out of the way....and reconnecting everything...good luck...

 

Hi,

Thanks for these precious informations.
For now, i received the sensors, but, i still haven't received the female TORX for the various screws on the engine.

I will post as soon as possible to keep you all in touch of the resolution, or not, of these rough idle problems.


See you !

 

Well ... i replaced the 2 sensors (Camshaft/Crankshaft position sensors), but nothing changed ...

I'm wondering about the "coils" and "spark wires" ... but ... they are really more expensive than the sensors ... so i just don't know what do i do ...

I thought of a compression problem on a cylinder, but, another time, i don't know how to diagnose this kind of thing.
This i my first gasoline car (i drove only gasoil/diesel engines until now), so i don't have a lot of experience on those.


If someone has an idea for me to look for, on the next step ?


Thanks !

 

Maybe a bad MAF sensor, or a bad connection to it in the harness.
The MAF sensor is in the plastic piece that the engine cover/air cleaner connects to ( at least on the N/A ), not sure where it is on the SRT6.

Unplug it and see if there is any difference, if no change then you found it, if it is worse, then it is NOT the MAF sensor.


EDIT - never mind, I forgot I had already posted this ........