Today I decided to install my Needswings downpipes. I got my tools together, jack stands, liquid wrench, work lights etc. and headed to the basement. Well as luck would have it my neighbors were both at home so my work space was cramped. I started by hitting all the nuts and bolts with liquid wrench and seeing what size wrenches and sockets I would need. The O2 sensor is 22 mm. The manifold bolts are 1/2" as are the side bracket nuts. The after cat bolts and nuts are 14 mm and 12 mm. You will need a swivel and intermediate and long extensions for your 3/8" ratchet. I went from back to front and you won't believe it but every nut and bolt came off without any drama whatsoever. Then, with everything unbolted I went to separate the front section from the rear before the resonator and the sucker wouldn't budge. So being that it's Christmas Eve I put it together, once again without any drama, and I'm asking for tricks to getting the sections separated. I was on my back under the car and couldn't get any leverage, OK, maybe I'm older than Moses, but any ideas before I give it a second go around after Christmas? I tried kicking and cussing so we can check that off. A hammer was also employed without success. So, besides going to a shop who can drop some seeds of wisdom my way.

Les

P.S. MERRY CHRISTMAS!

 

I've been sitting here thinking about what I did and how I did it and I think I've got it figured out. Silly me, I unbolted everything else first and tried to separate the sections last. Sunday I'll give it another go but I intend to unbolt the back only so the front is still held solid as I persuade it apart. I love figuring things out on my own, just not after the first try.

Les

 

Thanks! One less to learn on my own! LOL!!!

 

With a lift it really would be a piece of cake. I used a deep dish 1/2' socket and put the swivel on the end and then the intermediate length extension from the top. It sticks in place while you crawl under the car to put another extension from underneath and unbolt the manifold to down pipe bolts. My biggest problem, besides getting the sections separated, is I only have 2 jackstands so I'm jacking up one side of the car and forcing myself under between the jackstands. A real pain in the neck. I'm still thinking of methods of persuasion to separate the sections if they want to stay married. I really want to get this done myself Sunday and hop on the dyno next week.

I may be asking for a supercharger removal tutorial .... and porting tutorial in the near future.

Les

 

how about jacking the motor up with a wood block a few inches like you do for the motor mount replacement? this would give you a bit of room to wiggle fronts loose

 

Buy Another Set Of Jack Stands And Put Both Sides Up Cheap Cost $30 For Many Uses In The Future
I Do Know This Works Less Cramp More Room

Good Luck

 

Heat. Do ya know anyone with some oxy torchs?

 

GOT THE DOWNPIPES ON!!!!! The old exhaust just fell apart today. I guess letting the liquid wrench soak for a couple of days dissolved the "glue" holding it together. I'll post up the required proof pictures after lunch and a quick drive to check for leaks and see how it feels. I did a no no however. Once again my neighbors stayed home and I was pinched on one side of the car. After finishing up one side I had to start the car (20 alarms went off) and back it in to do the other side. Being and ex donut man, I aint fraid of no heat. Yup, got it apart with the cats burning hot. Just goes to show what can be done with the right tools and care. I have a question for Rob, just exactly which direction do you point those J-pipes that the 02 sensors screw into? I have them facing forward but it seems a little too close to the cutouts. Anyone know? I'll sent Rob an email if no one has a clue.

Les

 

les according to the fotos from robs website the j tubes point towrds the front of the car aimed at the cutouts. it seems the j tubes are welded on. were yours? also are you running any cats at all?

les did you have to elongate the O2 wiring to fit?

 

Let us know the improvment that you see or feel after your on the road and driving it please. Thanks Woody

 

The J tubes swivel. You can point them anywhere you want too ...... well not exactly true. The O2 wires aren't long enough to point them backwards without a wiring extension. I have them pointed forward and slightly down so they have 1/2" clearance from surrounding appendages. My car's low and I see signs of scuffing under the car and I'd prefer if they tucked up underneath a little more. I have a few responsibilities to take care of before a test run. I plan to get on the dyno this week, for better or worse, to see what the numbers are. YEEHAW!!

Les

 

Good job Les! Waiting for the review.

 

I just got back from a test drive. Before I got out of the basement I knew I had a leak. It's the driver's side before the resonator ..... it didn't want to mate up, looking at the exhaust tips it's obvious that I'm off a hanger or something. So I'll get back under tomorrow and get it right. No codes. With the windows open it sounds "whooshier" perhaps because of my little leak. With the windows up and the air on (sorry, but it's 80º here) it's louder. More or less the same tone with a little more bass and a bit louder. The police are out in force and I passed a zillion un noticed. At the tailpipes it sounds more or less the same as with the cats. Now on to the often discussed torque loss. I agree. Where you loose it is from idle to 2000 rpm. The only time I was sure of it was driving at 1500 in high gear and giving it a little gas to speed up without downshifting. Yeah, I think some is lost. On the top it feels a bit stronger to me. Not a huge amount, but equal to the loss down low. I'll fix the muffler alignment and the leakage tomorrow after work. The car is going to the dyno this week, with cutouts closed and then open. So give me this week to dyno, the month of January to race the car and I'll be able to give a complete well rounded review. First impressions are it's a racers modification. But I think it's best to wait for the numbers, for the ECU to adapt, and to see some track times. The jury is still hearing the evidence.

Les

 

A picture of the take offs.

Les

 

les the oem O2 sensors were in the exhaust header correct? (primary) were do they insert in the new exhaust? in the j tubes? are they long enough to reach, seems way farther down the exhaust

 

The 02 sensors that you see in the engine compartment stay put. The ones that go into the J-tubes are under the car after the primary cats. You can see where they were in the picture of the stock pipes I posted.

Les

 

Les, send me a PM when you are ready to do a little P&P on it (a diegrinder and a dremel with flex handle are fantastic). I came up with a couple of tricks that seemed to work pretty well. As for removing the supercharger - it comes off easy (albeit a bit heavy - easier to lift off with 2 people), but getting it back on the IC hoses have to be lined up just right, otherwise they snag some of the wiring and won't let the supercharger mate completely to the heads. It is definitely a 2 person job putting it back on - unless you are built like a bodybuilder and have the patience of JOB. haha!

Oh yea, enjoy that 80 degree weather.....We have a Noreaster snow storm right now and have 4-5 inches of snow....it is 27 outside too.

My Crossfire has been in the garage for 2 weeks b/c of salt, rain and snow and it looks like it will be in there for at least 2-3 more. I did wax it though - so at least it is a nice and shiny paperweight in the garage.

What I need is the LSD to come in quickly. It will give me something to do while it is snowing.

Cheers,
KrzyFast

 

Thanks KrzyFast. When I get ready, it could be a while, I'll get in contact. I have news my Crossfire brothers. I'll start a new thread when I have all the information documented but suffice it to say that the downpipes add a lot on top. I used the same dyno that I used the last 4 times. My results on their Mustang dyno have ranged from 250 something to a best of 283 (I thought it was 289 but they pulled up all my runs on their computer) We didn't have time to do any runs with the cutouts open so I'll be going back tomorrow or Wednesday, but all my runs were over 300 hp with a best of 311 hp with the weather correction factor. We did the runs from 3000 to 5900 rpm and the hp was still climbing at the top end. The numbers may seem low but the improvement is huge. Now for the disclaimers. The changes to the car since my former best run consist of: Needswings cork manifold gaskets, Needwings downpipes and a Needswings teflon and thermal coated Y pipe. So you can decide where the the 25 hp came from. Weather was cooler, in the 80's instead of the 90's but I always use the correction factor anyway. Let's see what happens tomorrow with the cutouts open. I can't wait! Rob told me it cut 2/10's off his 1/4 mile time which translates to around 20 hp. Good gosh, I can't wait to find out.

Les