Valve cover leak...
Re: Valve covers resealed, wont turn over need help
I resealed the breather covers and in the process split both hoses and am waiting for those parts. It has been 24hours since resealing the covers. When I tried to start it up, the engine turned over just a few times and then choked to a stop. When I try to start it now it just hums. It has power, everything electrical is working fine. Have I triggered some type of safety switch without the breather hoses?
I followed the steps suggested in the forum... I feel like I need to somehow reboot the computer? Any ideas?
KJN
I followed the steps suggested in the forum... I feel like I need to somehow reboot the computer? Any ideas?
KJN
Re: Valve cover leak...
KJN:
What do you mean by" It choked to a halt" and it just "hums".
You said all electrics are working or does that mean that they are lit up? If battery is low it may not start. Is there any chance you dropped something in the intake, vac hose, or somewhere else. You mentioned the hoses split, you may want to check those again for fit ,etc. and for bits of hose in the intake. This should have been easy to do, I would also check the hoses and other hoses in that area of the Throttle Body.
What do you mean by" It choked to a halt" and it just "hums".
You said all electrics are working or does that mean that they are lit up? If battery is low it may not start. Is there any chance you dropped something in the intake, vac hose, or somewhere else. You mentioned the hoses split, you may want to check those again for fit ,etc. and for bits of hose in the intake. This should have been easy to do, I would also check the hoses and other hoses in that area of the Throttle Body.
Re: Valve cover leak...
Re: Valve cover leak...
Good luck,
Last edited by dedwards0323; 02-27-2014 at 06:15 AM.
Re: Valve covers resealed, wont turn over need help
I resealed the breather covers and in the process split both hoses and am waiting for those parts. It has been 24hours since resealing the covers. When I tried to start it up, the engine turned over just a few times and then choked to a stop. When I try to start it now it just hums. It has power, everything electrical is working fine. Have I triggered some type of safety switch without the breather hoses?
I followed the steps suggested in the forum... I feel like I need to somehow reboot the computer? Any ideas?
KJN
I followed the steps suggested in the forum... I feel like I need to somehow reboot the computer? Any ideas?
KJN
Last edited by dedwards0323; 02-27-2014 at 06:23 AM.
Re: Valve cover leak...
I'm in the process of replacing both the valve cover gaskets and the breather cover gaskets. Valve covers are easy, but I'm wondering just how to take these breather covers off (both have small leaks). Obviously, the screws need to be removed, but these things just don't want to come off. And, I don't want to beat on them. They are stuck on quite tightly.
Coyote
Coyote
Re: Valve cover leak...
I'm in the process of replacing both the valve cover gaskets and the breather cover gaskets. Valve covers are easy, but I'm wondering just how to take these breather covers off (both have small leaks). Obviously, the screws need to be removed, but these things just don't want to come off. And, I don't want to beat on them. They are stuck on quite tightly.
Coyote
Coyote
Re: Valve cover leak...
Marked in orange ? or the whole thing?
8LyopOS.png
Last edited by ijaved; 08-29-2014 at 04:59 PM.
Re: Valve cover leak...
Mine is leaking on the driver's side right under the oil fill cap. I'm planning to do the fix sometime next week. Can anyone tell me if there is a sequence to tightening the bolts/screws? For instance, do I tighten the E10 bolts first, then the M5 cap screws. Also, I understand the 7ft-lbs torque is for the E10 bolts, but how much torque for the cap screws? Also, there is a cap screw around a rubber bushing right above the oil fill cap. What's the toque on that? Its appearance seems different than the M5 screw in color.
Re: Valve cover leak...
Dave,
I remember a couple of years back, we had a member that was told the same thing. To replace the whole valve cover!
I'm sure that it is only the common breather cover leak. I've now done 3 of them. The latest just this morning! If a dealership does it, they will remove the leaking cover, wipe off the surfaces, and stick it back together.
I wish I had taken photos. Sorry.
Not good enough. Once the breather cover is removed, I very carefully remove all traces of old sealant and degrease both the breather and valve cover surfaces that will be touching the sealant. And I mean really degrease. And remove the old sealant from the screw-hole areas, too.
Fill the groove in the breather cover with sealant and strike it off flush like screeding concrete. Just fill the groove, no more. Apply sealant around the screw holes. Just look carefully at how it fits together. Don't use too much-it will just come loose. Inside the engine. You are supposed to replace the M5 screws as part of the service procedure. Do it. They are aluminum and I would be very leery of using them again. McMaster-Carr carries them.
M5 X 16mm long. McMaster-Carr #92855A516
The torque spec is quite low, on the order of 10 in-lbs. If that much.
I also add lockwashers to this assembly. McMaster-Carr #90895A027
Be very careful not to plug the very small holes in the breather cap leading to the hose barbs. Those are our version of Positive Crankcase Ventilation vales. No valves, just properly-sized holes. It works fine so long as no non-synthetic oil is used. It will condense and thicken-clogging the holes. Just like in the VC's I just re-conditioned for a friend.
Please chime in, anyone, if you have more info.
I remember a couple of years back, we had a member that was told the same thing. To replace the whole valve cover!
I'm sure that it is only the common breather cover leak. I've now done 3 of them. The latest just this morning! If a dealership does it, they will remove the leaking cover, wipe off the surfaces, and stick it back together.
I wish I had taken photos. Sorry.
Not good enough. Once the breather cover is removed, I very carefully remove all traces of old sealant and degrease both the breather and valve cover surfaces that will be touching the sealant. And I mean really degrease. And remove the old sealant from the screw-hole areas, too.
Fill the groove in the breather cover with sealant and strike it off flush like screeding concrete. Just fill the groove, no more. Apply sealant around the screw holes. Just look carefully at how it fits together. Don't use too much-it will just come loose. Inside the engine. You are supposed to replace the M5 screws as part of the service procedure. Do it. They are aluminum and I would be very leery of using them again. McMaster-Carr carries them.
M5 X 16mm long. McMaster-Carr #92855A516
The torque spec is quite low, on the order of 10 in-lbs. If that much.
I also add lockwashers to this assembly. McMaster-Carr #90895A027
Be very careful not to plug the very small holes in the breather cap leading to the hose barbs. Those are our version of Positive Crankcase Ventilation vales. No valves, just properly-sized holes. It works fine so long as no non-synthetic oil is used. It will condense and thicken-clogging the holes. Just like in the VC's I just re-conditioned for a friend.
Please chime in, anyone, if you have more info.
Did you have to loosen the ignition coils? If so, how does one go about doing that? Or did you just slide the breather covers "around" the coils before seating them?
Re: Valve cover leak...
Dave,
I remember a couple of years back, we had a member that was told the same thing. To replace the whole valve cover!
I'm sure that it is only the common breather cover leak. I've now done 3 of them. The latest just this morning! If a dealership does it, they will remove the leaking cover, wipe off the surfaces, and stick it back together.
I wish I had taken photos. Sorry.
Not good enough. Once the breather cover is removed, I very carefully remove all traces of old sealant and degrease both the breather and valve cover surfaces that will be touching the sealant. And I mean really degrease. And remove the old sealant from the screw-hole areas, too.
Fill the groove in the breather cover with sealant and strike it off flush like screeding concrete. Just fill the groove, no more. Apply sealant around the screw holes. Just look carefully at how it fits together. Don't use too much-it will just come loose. Inside the engine. You are supposed to replace the M5 screws as part of the service procedure. Do it. They are aluminum and I would be very leery of using them again. McMaster-Carr carries them.
M5 X 16mm long. McMaster-Carr #92855A516
The torque spec is quite low, on the order of 10 in-lbs. If that much.
I also add lockwashers to this assembly. McMaster-Carr #90895A027
Be very careful not to plug the very small holes in the breather cap leading to the hose barbs. Those are our version of Positive Crankcase Ventilation vales. No valves, just properly-sized holes. It works fine so long as no non-synthetic oil is used. It will condense and thicken-clogging the holes. Just like in the VC's I just re-conditioned for a friend.
Please chime in, anyone, if you have more info.
I remember a couple of years back, we had a member that was told the same thing. To replace the whole valve cover!
I'm sure that it is only the common breather cover leak. I've now done 3 of them. The latest just this morning! If a dealership does it, they will remove the leaking cover, wipe off the surfaces, and stick it back together.
I wish I had taken photos. Sorry.
Not good enough. Once the breather cover is removed, I very carefully remove all traces of old sealant and degrease both the breather and valve cover surfaces that will be touching the sealant. And I mean really degrease. And remove the old sealant from the screw-hole areas, too.
Fill the groove in the breather cover with sealant and strike it off flush like screeding concrete. Just fill the groove, no more. Apply sealant around the screw holes. Just look carefully at how it fits together. Don't use too much-it will just come loose. Inside the engine. You are supposed to replace the M5 screws as part of the service procedure. Do it. They are aluminum and I would be very leery of using them again. McMaster-Carr carries them.
M5 X 16mm long. McMaster-Carr #92855A516
The torque spec is quite low, on the order of 10 in-lbs. If that much.
I also add lockwashers to this assembly. McMaster-Carr #90895A027
Be very careful not to plug the very small holes in the breather cap leading to the hose barbs. Those are our version of Positive Crankcase Ventilation vales. No valves, just properly-sized holes. It works fine so long as no non-synthetic oil is used. It will condense and thicken-clogging the holes. Just like in the VC's I just re-conditioned for a friend.
Please chime in, anyone, if you have more info.
I just ggogled McM-Carr number, and it says the screws are stainless steel. Can you confirm?
Ed
Re: Valve cover leak...
I can confirm that both Max and I have SS screws in the valve covers and valve cover vents.
( I got mine from Max )
The only issue here is that with SS, if you over-torque you will strip out the hole in the cover, rather than breaking off the screw as happens with the aluminum ones ......
( I got mine from Max )
The only issue here is that with SS, if you over-torque you will strip out the hole in the cover, rather than breaking off the screw as happens with the aluminum ones ......
Last edited by ala_xfire; 01-29-2015 at 03:36 PM.