Dave,

I remember a couple of years back, we had a member that was told the same thing. To replace the whole valve cover!

I'm sure that it is only the common breather cover leak. I've now done 3 of them. The latest just this morning! If a dealership does it, they will remove the leaking cover, wipe off the surfaces, and stick it back together.

I wish I had taken photos. Sorry.

Not good enough. Once the breather cover is removed, I very carefully remove all traces of old sealant and degrease both the breather and valve cover surfaces that will be touching the sealant. And I mean really degrease. And remove the old sealant from the screw-hole areas, too.

Fill the groove in the breather cover with sealant and strike it off flush like screeding concrete. Just fill the groove, no more. Apply sealant around the screw holes. Just look carefully at how it fits together. Don't use too much-it will just come loose. Inside the engine. You are supposed to replace the M5 screws as part of the service procedure. Do it. They are aluminum and I would be very leery of using them again. McMaster-Carr carries them.

M5 X 16mm long. McMaster-Carr #92855A516
The torque spec is quite low, on the order of 10 in-lbs. If that much.
I also add lockwashers to this assembly. McMaster-Carr #90895A027

Be very careful not to plug the very small holes in the breather cap leading to the hose barbs. Those are our version of Positive Crankcase Ventilation vales. No valves, just properly-sized holes. It works fine so long as no non-synthetic oil is used. It will condense and thicken-clogging the holes. Just like in the VC's I just re-conditioned for a friend.

Please chime in, anyone, if you have more info.

 

I remember a member had the valve covers replaced by the dealer under warranty as they were supposed to warp and be unsealable, it cost the owner nothing as I recall.

 

Boy, I have a lot of trouble believing they could warp. They are incredibly rigid.

 

Like others, make sure you let us know which cover is leaking. These engines have a 2-piece valve cover. The main valve cover is typically just like any other valve cover. The odds of it warping seem somewhat far-fetched (my perspective).

But the smaller cover mounted on top of the valve cover is the crankcase breather cover. These are prone to leaks. As MAXCICHON stated, it's sealed with a RTV-type sealant. Factory install was inferior. MikeR's DIY post that started this thread is very good. The only issue is which sealant to use. There are several opinions in The Forum. Nearly all of them work. I prefer the Ultra Grey High Torque High Vibration product by Permatex (https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post523614). Going on 3 years since I did the repair and no signs of any leaks.

And take the advice from us that the screws need to be replaced. Originals are aluminum and stretch with the slightest application of torque. That really holds true for any size aluminum screw - 1x use only! If you use aluminum screws, they don't need to be much more than just over "snug". Let the RTV sealant do the sealing. I used corrosion resistant screws (marine grade) and these can be torqued to a reasonable level for the screw size.

And don't get replacement screws from Chrysler. The ones they supply are anodized steel, which is probably okay, but the screws are a couple of mm's longer (due to standard length) and "bottom-out" preventing the crankcase breather cover from attaining a good seal.

Good Luck,

 

in Max's reply :
I am the friend, but it wasn't me that ran with gunky oil. I got these covers from a forum member who had them given to him by a non-forum member.
( And Max is right - they were waaaaay gunky. Max didn't even see them in the original condition, I had already taken a swipe at cleaning them before handing them over to Max for blasting / painting. )

See below "Coming Attractions"

 

Sunday...Sunday...Sunday!

 

Is there anyone on here from the NW 'burbs of Detroit? (Oakland Co) Looking for some local advice on where to buy parts, tools to do this job myself.

I really need to do something about our valve cover leak. It was seeping oil and when I asked the dealership to look at it during an oil change and make a recommendation, they said we need all new valve covers as well as new seals. Oh, at a nifty price too.

They said the HIGH Heat the valve covers are subjected to causes them to warp. Naturally, I said, no thanks. And naturally the leak is now worse. It actually smokes a little and it even looks like a bolt is missing (there's a hole with clean threads) - I'm beside myself. They wouldnt replace the seal without replacing the covers too.

Does any of this make sense to y'all? Maybe I'm off base but they were incredibly rude and spoke down to me the whole time. My dad raced cars and rebuilt engines. I was in there doing that work with him for oh, an entire childhood and throughout my teens. I have a clue in other words, but it was a long time ago.

I'm fairly certain I can do this, but I dont know where to get the tools and parts in SE Oakland county, MI. Anyone have any insight or info? Thanks!

 

It was the driver's side valve cover only, but now that the dealership 'looked' the passenger side vc is leaking and there's a bit o' smoke. I'm afraid to drive it. I also think there is a bolt missing. I need to figure out how to upload a picture for you all! Finding the screws/bolts are my big problem. Have you all had to order them or were they in stock somewhere. I'm going to have to buy tools and everything - where's my Daddy when I need him?!
(prolly fishin' or shootin' pool down in Florida!)


Sorry - I was away from this for a month or so working so just getting back to this.

 

This problem has existed since this car was 'born' and the dealership where we got it replaced the housing where you fill it with oil (sorry, dont know what you call that) and called it done.

The oil weeped and seeped ever so slightly from then on. During service under warranty, they always said it was spill over or some such and we would have an occasional & slight burnt oil smell. Every time we took it in, they said that there was nothing wrong. Now it's out of warranty and we're in another state all together. We're basically screwed. Part of the shame is that it's a super low miles car and we drive it maybe once a week.

My hub's is peeved off like you cant believe but too busy to deal with it so here I am. We have no relationship with the dealership here and they arent willing to behave rationally about it. They just said, you can call Chrysler but it's outta warranty - but you can ask! I nearly said, I can just have my husband ask the big cheese when he's up in Auburn Hills selling them components.. Jerks!

 

My XF had the same problem. It was the breather covers not the valve covers. I used high temp
RTV to seal them. I put it on the underside surface after I cleaned with soap and alcohol. I used the original aluminum screws, but cleaned the threads of the screw and the mating valve cover. I barely tightened them and let dry overnight. no problems for over 2years. If you use new stell screws make sure they are the correct length, I did use one to replace a lost aluminum screw, but coated with silicon grease to make sure it would not seize up. The only tools needed is the proper size driver for the screw head and a small scraper to clean the old sealant off.

 

Thanks Dave - I'll take the big cover off and take a look at this.. Appreciate it!

 

Hmm this makes the 5th pair I have polished and as yet none of the covers had any warpage just a lot of black rtv from the factory all over the edges inside. Follow the advise above when replacing and it will seal just fine.

 

Wait - is there a gasket on the passenger side valve cover and RTV sealing the driver's side valve cover & the two breathers?

We're tackling this job today and have no gasket. Hope we've not made a big mistake before we even start. If someone sees this question today please, pretty please reply before we mess up

We now only have to figure out how to take the big black engine cover off.

 

Gaskets are used on bother valve covers and RTV is used on the two breathers.

 

OH NO. I'm not sure how I've missed this. The one page/post of this long thread where the gasket is mentioned is probably the one page I did not read.
Thought the valve covers & breathers were all sealed with RTV. I just finished reading all of this once more before starting & we're all set to start down in the garage.
Can you just do the breather covers and then do the VC's next week? (without ruining the seal on the breather covers is what I mean)

Also if you're still here - We haven't figured out how to take the big black engine cover off to access all of this. Thanks

 

The engine cover comes off just by pulling it very hard. It snaps on and off. Yank it hard in one corner, then the next corner. Make sure you line up the throttle body when you push the cover back on the engine.

 

I got mine off by pulling up hard on the center back, above the throttle body. The rear is also the last to go back into place.

 

XCountry - I know you are well into this project, but Rob at NeedsWings has the parts you need. Also, a good indie repair shop is Karl Heinz Auto Center at 14/Crooks if you should need future repairs. Friend of my raves about how great they are in servicing her MB R350 vs the dealer.

My valve covers were replaced twice - once by the Chrysler factory repair shop and once under warranty by a dealer. Techs advised that it was cheaper to replace rather than repair due to warranty labor rates.

On a different subject, if you are in Oakland Co and free Aug 16-17, you are welcome to hook up with this group at the Dream Cruise. Lots of 1st hand tips on maintaining your Xfire.

 

Today's the day - We're not clear on whether it's the breather covers or the valve covers who are leaking but we took of the engine cover last night and wiped things down a little to see what is what. We went and ordered gaskets for the valve cover and will pick them up after noon just in case we find it IS the VC's leaking. It's been some years since I've done something like this so I hope I've not opened a can of worms, but the info you've all put out here is so appreciated!

I think the dealership started unbolting things before they asked to do the work & then retightened when we said no thanks. Now the leak is worse and there is a small amount of smoke when the engine is running, where there was none before.

We also have one threaded opening in the VC with no bolt. It is on the passenger side, just forward of the rubber grommet that holds the engine cover on. Anyone have any idea what that is? Thanks

2006 Crossfire, 3.2 liter V-6

 

If it is one a bit forward of, and a bit lower than the rubber grommet, then that is not used on the Crossfire.