Valve cover leak...
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From: North Plains, OR
Re: Valve cover leak...
Nope.....
Funny that you should pop this up today.... I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
Funny that you should pop this up today.... I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by MikeR
Nope.....
Funny that you should pop this up today.... I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
Funny that you should pop this up today.... I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
An evenly spaced bolt pattern, evenly torqued bolts and evenly applied RTV will provide the best seal. I would say the breathers may possibly be unevenly clamped due to the screw spacing just by looking at them.
That's my opinion anyway.
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From: Upstate SC
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by MikeR
Nope.....
I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
I just re-did both sides on the Aero yesterday. They were leaking again and when I pulled the breather covers the gasket was stuck very well to the breathers but not to the valve covers.... so I made sure that I cleaned both really good again and used naptha on the valve covers to get all the oil off.... then I used a little(?) extra RTV material to make sure I got a good 'squish' on the bottom sides where they always seem to leak..
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From: North Plains, OR
Re: Valve cover leak...
I think I over torqued my breathers the first time.... I was a little more liberal with the sealant and lighter on the torque this last time and feel I got a better seal. I also cleaned the actual valve cover with naptha to get all the oil off and allow the sealant to stick good and let everything sit for over 24 hours to cure as stated in instructions for sealant.
I dont think it was the type of sealant I used as much as me not getting the surfaces really clean/dry and not allowing the sealant to cure before driving.
Fortunately it is a fairly easy task and is just a nuisance to do over.
I dont think it was the type of sealant I used as much as me not getting the surfaces really clean/dry and not allowing the sealant to cure before driving.
Fortunately it is a fairly easy task and is just a nuisance to do over.
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by MikeR
I think I over torqued my breathers the first time.... I was a little more liberal with the sealant and lighter on the torque this last time and feel I got a better seal. I also cleaned the actual valve cover with naptha to get all the oil off and allow the sealant to stick good and let everything sit for over 24 hours to cure as stated in instructions for sealant.
I dont think it was the type of sealant I used as much as me not getting the surfaces really clean/dry and not allowing the sealant to cure before driving. Fortunately it is a fairly easy task and is just a nuisance to do over.
I dont think it was the type of sealant I used as much as me not getting the surfaces really clean/dry and not allowing the sealant to cure before driving.
Fortunately it is a fairly easy task and is just a nuisance to do over.They say to use sensor safe RTV, I'm not too sure if that is vital but why take a chance.
The secret to the successful use of RTV is the evenness of the bead, clean faces, following the makers instructions to the letter and the correct torque on the new bolts in our case.
Then cross your fingers.
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Re: Valve cover leak...
My .02:
Don't over do it on the sealant. Just enough to fill the notch with a slight contour is more than sufficient. If you notice an excess of sealant squeezed out from under the cover when tightening (a little is ok) then you may have too much.
In my experiences with engine teardowns reveal that it is very commonplace for people to overuse these types of sealants, and excess sealant can plug all kinds of important oil passageways, although if its just used on the valve cover's "cover" I don't think theres any need to worry.
I second the comments regarding prepping the surfaces and adhering to the specific sealant guidelines. The sealant I used (I believe it was the Ultra Black) specified additional torqing of the bolts after the 1st hour, this is very important, with full curing taking 24 hrs. I would recommend against some of the fast drying stuff, Permatex now offers an aerosol product that boasts 1hr full curing time. Avoid using any type of metallic bristed brush if possible, especially if they tend to "shed".
For what its worth I replaced the valve cover gaskets and resealed the additional covers with sealant and haven't had any issues this far, I also used box store's metric fasteners as the previous owner or dealer stripped the bolts while torqing previously.
Don't over do it on the sealant. Just enough to fill the notch with a slight contour is more than sufficient. If you notice an excess of sealant squeezed out from under the cover when tightening (a little is ok) then you may have too much.
In my experiences with engine teardowns reveal that it is very commonplace for people to overuse these types of sealants, and excess sealant can plug all kinds of important oil passageways, although if its just used on the valve cover's "cover" I don't think theres any need to worry.
I second the comments regarding prepping the surfaces and adhering to the specific sealant guidelines. The sealant I used (I believe it was the Ultra Black) specified additional torqing of the bolts after the 1st hour, this is very important, with full curing taking 24 hrs. I would recommend against some of the fast drying stuff, Permatex now offers an aerosol product that boasts 1hr full curing time. Avoid using any type of metallic bristed brush if possible, especially if they tend to "shed".
For what its worth I replaced the valve cover gaskets and resealed the additional covers with sealant and haven't had any issues this far, I also used box store's metric fasteners as the previous owner or dealer stripped the bolts while torqing previously.
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M60A3Driver (06-26-2023)
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by shaverj
My .02:
Don't over do it on the sealant. Just enough to fill the notch with a slight contour is more than sufficient. If you notice an excess of sealant squeezed out from under the cover when tightening (a little is ok) then you may have too much.
In my experiences with engine teardowns reveal that it is very commonplace for people to overuse these types of sealants, and excess sealant can plug all kinds of important oil passageways, although if its just used on the valve cover's "cover" I don't think theres any need to worry.
I second the comments regarding prepping the surfaces and adhering to the specific sealant guidelines. The sealant I used (I believe it was the Ultra Black) specified additional torqing of the bolts after the 1st hour, this is very important, with full curing taking 24 hrs. I would recommend against some of the fast drying stuff, Permatex now offers an aerosol product that boasts 1hr full curing time. Avoid using any type of metallic bristed brush if possible, especially if they tend to "shed".
For what its worth I replaced the valve cover gaskets and resealed the additional covers with sealant and haven't had any issues this far, I also used box store's metric fasteners as the previous owner or dealer stripped the bolts while torqing previously.
Don't over do it on the sealant. Just enough to fill the notch with a slight contour is more than sufficient. If you notice an excess of sealant squeezed out from under the cover when tightening (a little is ok) then you may have too much.
In my experiences with engine teardowns reveal that it is very commonplace for people to overuse these types of sealants, and excess sealant can plug all kinds of important oil passageways, although if its just used on the valve cover's "cover" I don't think theres any need to worry.
I second the comments regarding prepping the surfaces and adhering to the specific sealant guidelines. The sealant I used (I believe it was the Ultra Black) specified additional torqing of the bolts after the 1st hour, this is very important, with full curing taking 24 hrs. I would recommend against some of the fast drying stuff, Permatex now offers an aerosol product that boasts 1hr full curing time. Avoid using any type of metallic bristed brush if possible, especially if they tend to "shed".
For what its worth I replaced the valve cover gaskets and resealed the additional covers with sealant and haven't had any issues this far, I also used box store's metric fasteners as the previous owner or dealer stripped the bolts while torqing previously.
The screws specified by DC for this application was a special screw that will break before the thread in the head and covers will strip.
Steel screws when used are often plated to prevent or resist galvanic action from occurring.
As the OEM screws cost more I would say that had it not been of some importance the cheaper screws would have been used. Why risk damage to the threads in the block and covers for a few dollars savings?
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M60A3Driver (06-26-2023)
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From: KC, Kansas
Re: Valve cover leak...
I suppose one of mine has the leak...microscopic thin layer .....if it never gets significantly worse....I'm thinking I'll leave it alone. Fred's never going to be a show car.....I'm hoping to eventually break the high miles record before I die.
I took the fuel filter & instructions to an NTB today.....they said $65 to install......they put it up on the rack....looked at it for 10 minutes & gave up.....
I took the fuel filter & instructions to an NTB today.....they said $65 to install......they put it up on the rack....looked at it for 10 minutes & gave up.....
Last edited by Chris L.; 04-20-2011 at 04:27 PM.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 80
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From: Arizona
Re: Valve cover leak...
Very good link for MB valve cover oil baffle leak, (RTV seal redo) and spark plug service. M112 engine in the Crossfire.
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
Last edited by bspence; 04-20-2011 at 09:54 PM.
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From: KC, Kansas
Re: Valve cover leak...
Olathe Chrysler (KC area) wanted $299 to install a fuel filter & $140 for an oil change.......= $439
I bought a Mann fuel filter & provided the oil & oil filter....local labor.....total parts & labor = $149
I think I'll take the old lady out to eat tonight on the $290.00 I saved !!!
I bought a Mann fuel filter & provided the oil & oil filter....local labor.....total parts & labor = $149
I think I'll take the old lady out to eat tonight on the $290.00 I saved !!!
Last edited by Chris L.; 04-26-2011 at 03:59 PM.
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Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by bspence
Very good link for MB valve cover oil baffle leak, (RTV seal redo) and spark plug service. M112 engine in the Crossfire.
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
M112 Engines
112, 112.975 8.5qts
112.916, 112.953 7.9qts
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Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by dedwards0323
Found out the hard way earlier this morning while fixing the DS breather cover. Wrung the top off of one of the aluminum Torx socket head cap screws during final tightening. Lucky the material was aluminum. It was simple to extract the screw with an "easy-out". These really have to be only snug tight. I'd recommend nothing more than 1/8 turn after snug.
Anyway, went to local M-B dealer for replacement screws. Absolutely no help. Got the impression he didn't want to assist me once I said the screw came off a Crossfire with their 3.2L engine in it. Screw them!
Went to Chrysler dealer down the road a piece. Parts guy was helpful and found the screw I was looking for during his search. Printed me a copy of the attached. Unfortunately, didn't have these screws so I special ordered them out of Gainsville, GA warehouse. He told me I should have them within 3-4 days. $4 each. OUCH! $20 to replace all 5.
Since I didn't want the XFire to be out of service for a single M5-.80x16 cap screw, I went to Lowe's and looked in the metric fastener section in hardware. Low & behold I found M5-.80x16 regular SHCS's for $0.80 each. $4 to replace all 5 on the 3.2L! But if you do this, take extra precaution. The normal SHCS's are Grade 12.9 steel and the valve covers are cast aluminum. So it's easy to strip out threads if you over-tighten. Let the Permatex Gasket Maker compound do the work.
I'll start up the XFire later today & look for any catastrophic leaks. Hopefully, I won't find any. Then it will be only necessary to inspect the valve covers after driving around town the next couple of weeks to make sure that the ongoing leak is eliminated. Gotta have this resolved before Dragon weekend.
Later,
Anyway, went to local M-B dealer for replacement screws. Absolutely no help. Got the impression he didn't want to assist me once I said the screw came off a Crossfire with their 3.2L engine in it. Screw them!
Went to Chrysler dealer down the road a piece. Parts guy was helpful and found the screw I was looking for during his search. Printed me a copy of the attached. Unfortunately, didn't have these screws so I special ordered them out of Gainsville, GA warehouse. He told me I should have them within 3-4 days. $4 each. OUCH! $20 to replace all 5.
Since I didn't want the XFire to be out of service for a single M5-.80x16 cap screw, I went to Lowe's and looked in the metric fastener section in hardware. Low & behold I found M5-.80x16 regular SHCS's for $0.80 each. $4 to replace all 5 on the 3.2L! But if you do this, take extra precaution. The normal SHCS's are Grade 12.9 steel and the valve covers are cast aluminum. So it's easy to strip out threads if you over-tighten. Let the Permatex Gasket Maker compound do the work.
I'll start up the XFire later today & look for any catastrophic leaks. Hopefully, I won't find any. Then it will be only necessary to inspect the valve covers after driving around town the next couple of weeks to make sure that the ongoing leak is eliminated. Gotta have this resolved before Dragon weekend.
Later,
I found these at McMaster Carr are these the correct screws, I know they are socket head but they should work...think?
Metric 316 SS Socket Head Cap Screw M5 Thread, 16mm Length, .8mm Pitch P/N 92290A232
Thanks
OldSalt
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From: Upstate SC
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by OldSalt
I have to do my valve cover gaskets. I just go the car and noticed oil coming from the cover. Good write up on the process.
I found these at McMaster Carr are these the correct screws, I know they are socket head but they should work...think?
Metric 316 SS Socket Head Cap Screw M5 Thread, 16mm Length, .8mm Pitch P/N 92290A232
Thanks
OldSalt
I found these at McMaster Carr are these the correct screws, I know they are socket head but they should work...think?
Metric 316 SS Socket Head Cap Screw M5 Thread, 16mm Length, .8mm Pitch P/N 92290A232
Thanks
OldSalt
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by bspence
Very good link for MB valve cover oil baffle leak, (RTV seal redo) and spark plug service. M112 engine in the Crossfire.
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
Remember this forum knows more than a Crossfire technician, its free and we don't put greasy palm prints all over your car either. Win Win.
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Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by onehundred80
There are much better write ups on the baffle oil leak fix on this forum and with colored pictures too.
Remember this forum knows more than a Crossfire technician, its free and we don't put greasy palm prints all over your car either. Win Win.
Remember this forum knows more than a Crossfire technician, its free and we don't put greasy palm prints all over your car either. Win Win.
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
OldSalt
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by OldSalt
Is the link with the colored pictures in this link you provided?
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OldSalt
Foreign Motorworks' Car Tips
OldSalt
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post436728
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From: Ontario
Re: Valve cover leak...
I decided to fix that pesky oil leak on the small covers on the valve covers today
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From: Upstate SC
Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by tonygg
Just found this thread and want to clarify that your great photo's and instructions using a liquid gasket is indeed for the Breather Cover and not the Valve Cover as posted? The breather cover sits on top of the valve cover....right?
But in any case, a leak from either could be viewed as a Valve Cover leak. Most of us are only familiar with a leak betweem the Valve Cover & Head. But in the case of this engine design, the Valve Cover can leak on the bottom & the top. Go Figure!
Later,
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Re: Valve cover leak...
Originally Posted by dedwards0323
Correct. IMO - The Breather Covers are more prone to oil leakage than the Valve Covers. Others may offer different opinion.
But in any case, a leak from either could be viewed as a Valve Cover leak. Most of us are only familiar with a leak betweem the Valve Cover & Head. But in the case of this engine design, the Valve Cover can leak on the bottom & the top. Go Figure!
Later,
But in any case, a leak from either could be viewed as a Valve Cover leak. Most of us are only familiar with a leak betweem the Valve Cover & Head. But in the case of this engine design, the Valve Cover can leak on the bottom & the top. Go Figure!
Later,
Looking forward to the Tail of the Dragon...four weeks to go!!!!!!
