when following dedwards advice using plated steel bolts for the breather covers we can increase torque to twice compared to aluminum bolts, hence reducing the possibility of leaks.
see chart: https://www.holo-krome.com/uploads/7...edatachart.pdf
here shows that torque for M5 is 12Nm (about 10 ft-lb) , double the figure advised for aluminum bolts (6Nm)
and no more breaking bolts again.

 

There is no need to exceed 4 ft/lb when using steel screws, remember you are screwing into an aluminum alloy and you do not want to strip the threads in the cylinder head.
You could use the 10 ft/lb mentioned in steel but not aluminum. The aluminum screws used are a safety precaution as well as corrosion prevention.

 

right. the torque is for the bolt, not for the aluminum. back to 5-6 Nm.
now, how those low figures can be measured? which torque wrenches are within these ranges?

the most common start at 10 ft-lb

 

My 1/4” square drive torque wrench starts at 20 in/lb (1 2/3 ft/lb)

 

great! can you tell model/ part number/source/pic?
anything that could make getting some similar easier.
tried elsewhere but nothing like that so far.

 

I got it from Princess Auto, they carry them and
they come in a nice plastic box.

 

Thanks for reminding folks of this important data fact. Even though I used M5-0.8x16 mm "blue-coat" SHCS screws, I only applied the 5-6 N-m tightening torque during re-assembly.

 

thanks.

 

o k guys: what if before tighten up the M5 to 5/6 Nm we add some permatex medium strength threadlocker blue so there is less chance that they get loose?
we still can remove them if needed. it has worked for me. any experience with it? no electrolysis? no corroding?
thanks
but then...i recalled that the engine runs at a high temperature. could the permatex handle it?

Medium Strength Threadlocker BLUE

Category: ThreadlockersOEM specified. All-purpose, medium strength threadlocker. Ideal for all nut and bolt applications 1/4″ to 3/4″ (6mm to 20mm). Eliminates need for stocking expensive lock nuts and lock washers. Locks and seals while preventing parts loosening due to vibration. Protects threads from corrosion. Removable with hand tools for easy disassembly. Conforms to ASTM D 5363 AN0321 (Mil-S-46163A, Type II, Grade N).

 

more on the use of steel bolts:
from post 327:
Quote:
Originally Posted by onehundred80 View Post
There is no need to exceed 4 ft/lb when using steel screws, remember you are screwing into an aluminum alloy and you do not want to strip the threads in the cylinder head.
You could use the 10 ft/lb mentioned in steel but not aluminum. The aluminum screws used are a safety precaution as well as corrosion prevention.

and from dedwards: Thanks for reminding folks of this important data fact. Even though I used M5-0.8x16 mm "blue-coat" SHCS screws, I only applied the 5-6 N-m tightening torque during re-assembly.

also, seen at post 19: "The normal SHCS's are Grade 12.9 steel and the valve covers are cast aluminum alloy. So it's easy to strip out threads if you over-tighten."

 

dedwards: in this picture from post 23, i see something that appears to me as if you used some sort of sealant (perhaps like permatex threadlocker )in the small bolts. is that right?

 

and from post 62, and the comment from 180:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR
use some blue loctite on the bolts when you torque them down.... that should keep them in place...
and then 180:
Applying Loctite may not be a good idea, this would probably act as a lubricant and using a torque wrench would allow the screw to be turned more than the specification value which is for a metal to metal contact. When cured the release torque required may leed to the head snapping off.
I realize that some people use steel or stainless steel screws but the OEM's are some aluminum alloy and that is what my comments refer

so seems that somebody has considered using loctite blue...
but havent seen any really using it-or similar-neither results...

 

does any1 know the specs on bolts that hold the valve covers in place? the large 1s?
i know this has been asked before-as in post 88:
" Does anyone know the specs on the larger valve cover bolts?
and: dimensions of the bolts! Diameter, pitch and length. "
but there was no answer.
and tell the Msomething (like M6, M7, whatever).
we could live in ignorance of all of this, except torque.
for the small 1s that originally are aluminum there is all the data, but for these....
at least if some1 brings the link where officially is shown the torque, we can tighten them correctly.
on saturday am going to clean the leak and i hope will do it right. this is an issue that is the most common. nothing of death or life, but affects to a large number of owners.
over 200 posts and over 100,000 visits-more than 1 per owner-tells something.
wonder how many that did the fix themselves did the torque wrong. and about the shops... hopeless.
just learned this: " it is 10 Nm. and the data comes right out of the XFire Service Manual, Page 9-745. "
for those who, like me, didnt know, is good news. now we have data that is substantiated. any1 can confirm this.
and we can do the repair knowing the torque. end of the quest!

 

Not a picture from my car. Engine above is an SRT-6.

 

i see. perhaps the owner happens to see this and chimes in.

 

Phil,

I did my valve cover leak job back in 2016 - my engine has NOT A DROP of seepage to this day. I didn't use ANY locktite or other product.

But what I DID do, is take my time and do the job right. I followed Max's advice and invested, probably, six hours in the repair. I spread my time over two weekends (mostly cause I was traveling during the week and let things sit all week to set up).
In my case, I took the breathers/valve covers off as assemblies and separated them once they were off the car. All four parts got cleaned inside and out with gasoline to remove all RTV and oil. I then used "Simple Orange" or some other product and cleaned them to the point you could eat off them.

I then let all parts sit overnight in front of a dehumidifier. I then applied my RTV as per Max's advice and bolted the breathers to the valve covers, finger tight. After 1/2 hour, I tightened the bolts to 5 footpounds and let them sit in front of a dehumidifier all week while I went to work.

Following weekend, I put the assemblies on the car with new valve gaskets and tightened bolts to 7 foot pounds (these torqes are what I remember, just look in the service manual to confirm these numbers).

And yes, I used NEW bolts from NEEDSWINGS. Again, no leaks in 20,000 miles and four years. Take your time, do it right. DO NOT over do it on the RTV, do what Max said, fill the valley of the breather and press them onto the valve cover - putting too much on means the breather cannot sit properly on the valve cover.

 

.
This is to supplement Pizza guy's post --- not sure if it's already in these posts ?
Can't impress you folks enough about using too much RTV (as shown) in some of your previous posted application pics here --- you're playing w/ destroying your engine

 

Many have tried his quick approach - and ended up doing it over again a year later. Worth a try? Sure.

But again, four years and I have had NO oil seepage at all.

 

Pls explain what you believe is wrong w/ his approach to the process --- the main thing I was hoping to see was properly applying the RTV (2mm bead which sounds right) but he didn't show it being done ?

 

He is doing a "quickie fix".

1) You cannot effectively clean ALL surfaces while half the parts are still on the engine.
2) Applying RTV and setting the breathers back on the car means there is no air circulation inside the breather/covers - time required for the RTV to set is WAY longer, this means that when you start the car and drive off, the RTV has not set completely. With the environment in the engine, it may never set. With how I (we) did it, there is air circulation inside the breathers/covers as well as outside.

MANY of us have used his technique, only to find ourselves doing the job again, sometimes in six months. ANYONE I've talked to who took the ENTIRE assemblies off the car and took their time, has never had to repeat the procedure (certainly not in six months). Go ahead, try it his way.

If you PAY someone to do the work, they will use his technique, because no one will pay $90 an hour for a seal job that takes 3 hours, they MUST do a "quickie fix".
I don't do quickie fixes, I want to do the job once and be successful!