Did they change all for past motors as well or is it a change that they made for motors being built today moving forward? I was not going to live with that tapping which was obnoxious for the first 5 seconds or so and was still there all the time although much less during idle. The only change was the oil and it instantly went away.

 

I'm assuming you are not using any cheap gasoline or an extremely low octane?

-Sam

 

OIL is oil. As long as you have it and its clean no big thing. Thin oil is more myth in my book than film strength which is important at high revs.

Get a stethescope or use a screwdriver and touch the motor with it and listen with your ear.

Is it on one side or in center of engine? Front or back?

Listen to the engine like your would listen to a train track to hear a DISTANT train. You can get LOADS of info with a screwdriver or other listening tool.

Sounds like a lifter or valve train to me, that would be on one side of the motor. Check it out and let us know.

Woody

 

Great advice! this is the easiest way to find the source of the knock. And don't worry too much if your engine is bad. I have an extra I will sell very cheap.

 

Woody....how come only DISTANT trains??? oh yeah, the flat penny thing.... I had to chuckle when I read that...

 

Haven't you ever watched the old westerns?

 

No offense but I can't help to say, this is one of the most stupid comments I have ever heard on this forum. If oil is oil, drain yours out and go to K-Mart and use K-Mart brand 10W-30 from here on out.

 

I have always been taught that oil is like little ball bearings and that the weight of the oil needs to conform to the tolerences in the bearings, rings and piston to cylinder clearances. As an engine wears these tolerences increase it is a good idea to increase the weight of the oil to properly fill these clearances. I personally don't like sludge and blown engines and therefore use high quality synthetics. His comment on how to find the source of the knock was a good one and a technique my grandfather taught me 35 years ago. He should be looking for the source of the knock before throwing parts and dollars at it.

 

My point was that from my experience as well as a local person last year with a N/A both had the same issue which was a loud know that pasted for about 5 seconds right after start up as well as a constant but softer tap during idle. They were gone once the correct oil was used. I am in no way suggesting this will replace a mechanical issue but he needs an oil change and already mentioned it has the incorrect weight in it. It is worth a try before spending $ with a mechanic as it needs done anyway.

I have been involved with cars for over 30 years and even though I may not attempt some of the projects that a few on here including yourself are working on, there are some things that don't need a whole lot of explaining and when I see a comment like oil is oil, what the heck!!!

 

I am sorry if you thought I was disagreeing with you. I agree, but forget that many people don't work on their own cars. Since he said knocking and not tapping I thought he may have a mechanical issue and the old screw driver to the ear is an easy way to find it and is free if you can do this. I don't agree that oil is oil or at least not for very long if you want your engine to last a long time.

I have only one use for dino oil and that is in a brand new engine. In a brand new engine synthetic is almost too good and it can take a long time for the rings to seat. Using dino oil for the first few hundred miles helps with engine break in and as soon as you no longer see any engine smoke from the exhaust it is time to put in the good stuff.

 

Lantana,

No apologies needed as I was only stating a certain situation. I did not believe you were giving me a hard time at all. We are on the same page.

 

Check the spark to all 12 of your plugs and make sure they are all firing properly. I remember HDDP posted somewhere about pulling a plug wire from the second plug of a single cylinder and it sounded like you threw a rod.

How about running a diagnostics check especially the misfire monitor, knock sensor, fuel trim and timing retard.

 

Ok i will give it a listen tonight. And no low grade fuel. Never put anything less than premium.

 

ok just got oil change. still doing same thing. Mobil 1 0w-40

 

Is this a knocking or tapping sound?

 

Look, if the noise stops at 1000rpm, it's not valve, piston, rod, bearing, or anything related. I don't believe there's any kind of mechanical engine noise that simply stops at 1000rpm.

As far as oil goes, I think it's pretty obvious that Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 is totally different from non-synthetic 10W-30 that you get at a truck stop. But the difference between Mobil 1 synthetic 0W-40 and Pennzoil full synthetic 5W-40 from the perspective of the valvetrain is next to nothing. Yes, in the long run, there might be a difference, but as far as being a contributor to a "knocking" sound, I don't think so.

Romio, can you please somehow record the sound of the noise to the computer and post it on the web for us to listen to??

It is literally impossible for us to help you without you doing that.

 

Yea, But not before the dragon. Hopefully someone can diagnose it there. it is definitely a knock. you can hear it from inside the car. Its pretty deep sounding do.

 

You still drivin this thing ? Hope you have an extended warranty !

 

My warranty was out 4k ago.

 

Here is a report that explains the oil properties and is why I chose to change my vehicle fleet at 5000 miles versus the old era 3000 milles.

Wear testing showed little difference even when they removed the rollers and added old style cams to push the test results.

Consumer Reports Oil Testing Results