Graphite, it's great to think out of the box. I applaud you and all the ones who have. We've come along way in the last three years. Many have stepped up to the plate with great success. Go ahead and experiment, and let us know how you do. I think the others are just saying they been there, and it's not worth it. But, I say keep at it and I hope you find and share what you're looking for.

 

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I will give you an A for persistance....since you are bound to do it...but remember what happens to cylinders that run too lean....good luck my friend...but the old days of taking the air cleaner off the holley are overwith....damn computers run the show now...

 

If these instructions don't help you do it then honestly you shouldn't be touching it.

1. Remove airbox
2. Remove clip around MAF connecting to manifold by prying middle pieces apart.
3. Disconnest plug on driver's side of MAF
4. lean MAF back to lossen front
5. Push back small metal clip on rear of MAF and lean forward to loosen rear
6. Once clear of clip, lift up
7. Attempt to pull the black screen straight out
8. If a straight out attempt doesn't work you will need a small screwdriver to pry up the sides.
9. If this still doesn't work PLEASE step away from the car

 

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Damn Ghost, that is one hell of a sig line for having 1 mod

 

Ghost, don't take this the wrong way...I like you man, but it is not just the car that is getting more hot air....that mod does nothing to increase performance...if it did, we all would have done it long ago....listen and learn my friend....listen and learn....

 

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I am reviving this old thread because of a conversation I had with Kelleman USA (Denver) yesterday. He told me the cheapest free HP is removing not only this screen but also the plastic baffles in the lower section. they said it made 10hp on every car they did it too. I unplugged the MAF and removed the whole MAF housing. I then just pushed all the restriction out from the inside pushing out. I then removed the lower section and cut out all the plastic baffles. I then finished off the the sides with a dremel and some some sand paper to smoth things out. Put it all together and test drove it. run felt better and more lively. No ill effects.

Kleeman claims that if you add up the surface area of all the restirctions it is almost 25% of the total surface area. He also said that forget about laminar air flow, the real reason MB put all this stuff in there was to prevent crap that got past an air filter from entering the engine but the most important reason was to keep things quiet. with this mod you may hear your intake a little more.

 

I've been wondering about replacing the 68mm MAF with a 74mm MAF. Would I need to recalibrate the engine computer. I think it is the same sensor, just larger diameter, which will give more air flow.
Will the ECU adjust more the increase in air flow or do I need to run a dyno test on the 3.2NA?

 

Two things:

• Re-use your stock sensor in the larger housing
• Yes, the computer will re-calibrate.

 

The larger MAF I bought has a sensor already in it, do I need to switch them around. I was told most of the larger MAFs did not have the sensor so they were making a swap. You think I still need to swap even though I have a new sensor already mounted.
Pulling the screen out is no problem, it is glued in with evenly spaced RTV around the perimeter. Mine popped wright out, almost no effort.

 

Straight from Rudy's mouth:

John,
They should work but I would continue to use the original MAF as the ECU is calibrated to meter the air with it and not the V8 one.

Take care,
Rudy

 

Is he saying to change the sensor? or keep the original MAF altogether? I guess I could have Eurocharged Perfornmance run it on the dyno and reset the computer to get the most out of it. I was thinking the MAF or Computer should not care as long as it gets a good signal, of course the Computer thinks it is working with a 68mm vs a 74mm MAF. Mayb e the sensor in the new MAF sends a code to the Computer as to size and flow rate????

 

74mm MAF housing, 74mm TB, and use your OEM MAF sensor in the new 74mm housing. We're only talking an 8mm increase in MAF size, the OEM sensor will calibrate to adjust over the course of a few hundred miles.

 

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I may try to do the sensor and MAF change on Sunday afternoon. I'm not sure on the other baffles yet. They seem like they help straighten the air flow pattern. Think I will leave, at least for now, the air box screen. Does anyone have any idea what kind of HP increase this might cause.

 

If you have it, I would use the V8 MAF in the 74mm housing. Here's why: It is a MASS AIR FLOW METER. It works by keeing an electrode at a contant temperature. More air cooling it requires more current to heat it. The sensor is also calibrated to the diameter of the housing. A larger housing means more air (MASS AIR) is passing through. Is this starting to make sense?? No need for a tune. Our cars run a open loop fuel management system and can adjust to differences. Just an FYI, when I got my V8 running, my V8 MAF was bad so I put the V6 one into the V8 housing and ran that until the new one arrived. It seemed to drive just fine.

I forgot to remove the one in the aircleaner box! As long as you have faith in your air cleaners and check them, none of this stuff is needed. I was also told by Kleeman that the airbox on my car is junk and that I should either switch to Needswings or 55K Y pipe and boxes. I have talked to Rob and we may see if we can make his dual CAI work on my car. Waiting on payday. Just spend a bundle going to the Dragon.

The baffles are in the elbow section between the MAF housing and the throttle body. They are actually connect to the side that was slipped in during manufacturing. the other side has grooves in the housing they fit into. I cut what I could with tin snips and then used channel locks to break out as much as possible. then used a Dremel with a barrell sander to smooth things out. Sand paper was the last step to make things nice and smooth. then a thorough wash with Dawn to get any gound up plastic out of it. It all snaps in place pretty easy. You can probably do a search on MB world to see how to remove. It is tricky and you don't want to snap any of the plastic.

 

I could be wrong in my opinion on this, the 74mm TB has an increase in area of about 20% over the 68mm TB. The difference in the 3.2 liter engine and the 5.5 liter say is about 70%. Hence at any given rpm the need for air in the 5.5 liter engine is 70% greater.

The air passing the sensor will be travelling faster in the 5.5 liter engine and any cooling will thus be greater. Using a sensor for a 5.5 liter MAF in the 3.2 liter MAF will let the sensor stay warmer as less air travels over it.
I would think that the 3.2 liter sensor will adapt better than the 5.5 liter sensor.

I had no idea at all how the sensor worked, but if what you say is correct and I have no reason to doubt you, the use of the sensor for the larger engine does not seem correct to me.

I'm using the 3.2 sensor in the 74mm MAF with no problems that I can see.

A smaller V8 would have less difference naturally. It would even out with a 4 liter V8 approx.