Does anyone have a line on where to get a good deal on stock SRT injectors?I'm also going to post in private classifieds but I figured it might save some time to post here as well.

 

We will be watching with anticipation and cheering you on.

Good looking website by the way

 

Well, up until the official mother's day events began, I spent the rest of my time this weekend on electronics.

First, I wired in the AEM FIC-6. Thanks rcompart for the excellent spreadsheet! I scoped out pretty much the perfect location. There is a nice, big, grommet hole through the firewall for a vac source from the intake manifold under the battery. I pulled the battery, concealed the aem up under the dash and behind the passenger side floor mat. I then ran the cables through the firewall, greased them up, and slipped them into the ecu box through the rubber sleeve on the battery side. I then soldered it in, cleaned off the wires, and wrapped everything in black friction tape! Pictures coming soon.

The cool thing is that it would take a well trained eye to even notice!

Next, I installed my LC-1 wideband and performed an 02 mod.

Then, I installed a nifty little gadget that converts the factory knock sensor input in a 0-5 volt output for datalogging.

Next on the list was installing my SPD data logger with wired inputs from the lc-1, map sensor, and my knock signal converter!

What a ***** that was snaking the input cable from the passenger side to the upper left dash area. Man they seal up every crack in this thing!

Oh well, it is in there and looks good. I managed to get a chance to start the car and let it idle before I had to stop. Next up is calibrating everything and start data logging.

I also ordered pretty much every single part I need for the rest; both with and without an intercooler. The only thing I think I missed was a larger pulley for the Rotrex to test low boost! I'll have to order that tonight when I get home.

 

This has been a great thread, can't wait to see more pics but I understand that you won't want to show too much. Keep up the good work and update us along the way.

Joe

 

I need that spread sheet for the fic.

Also, the limit for non-intercooled is going to be around 5psi, anything over that and IAT's get way too high

 

wouldn't it of been easier to buy the aftermarket Supercharger kit for the slk320? it's basically a cast alluminum intake manifold that has a rotrex charger on the end, runs right off the crankshaft pulley, they even give you the blueprint to re-machine your stock crank pulley..

 

Nope, not a good way to go about it and I can tell you that with absolute certainty. You'd need to make a bigger SC pulley and a substantially smaller crank pulley to get the boost down to low enough levels for the higher static compression on these engine. Too much boost and you'll be picking up shrapnel and trying to figure out what part of the engine it used to be. They way he's going with this is probably the best aftermarket way to do it. Minimizing the amount of accessories and parts on the engine that need to be changed.

BTW, Web, thanks for the compliment about the cheat sheet. If you need anything else, hollar at me and I'll see what I can do.

 

I think the aftermarket boost kit only puts out 7 psi on stock slk320, but it doesn't allow any provisions for a after cooler, which is where the rotrex project will make more gains. it looks very nice and is a compact package, that replaces the stock manifold.

but hey, with the Euro dropping it may be cheaper for people here to just buy the kit from Germany.

 

Wow................

 

what is the goal in boost pressure for your project car Web ?

 

Man, the parts are coming in faster than I can get things done. I had all these plans for this weekend and my son's AC went out in his car. So that destroyed my Saturday.

I then spent most of Sunday on the O2 system and electronics. First, the mini-din 6 cable I made didn't work with the SPD. At first I thought it was a grounding issue. However, while the mini-din 6 plugs into the min-din 8, the pins don't quite make contact. So, I had to track down a mini-din 8 connector and wire to solder up a new and correct cable.

Once I did that, I saw how low the AFR was at idle and discovered that the ECU didn't like my O2 mod. Basically, I disabled one upstream O2 sensor and split the signal to the ecu so I could use an existing bung for my wideband sensor. I then installed a resistor to simulate the heater circuit and prevent any CELs.

I could have fixed it, but I decided in the end, that wasn't they way I wanted to go, so I bit the bullet and pulled the passenger side down pipe to weld in a sensor bung. That was when I realized that I didn't have the bung I thought I had in my parts drawer!

So that is where I have stopped for now while waiting for a sensor bung to come in the mail.

That said, I did get in the following list of parts for my build:

- SRT-6 - Stock injectors
- Upgraded - Shift Solenoids
- Eibach Springs
- H&R sway bars - front and rear
- Every part imaginable to hook up the SC from the front mounted HE and Ford lightning pump to t-clamps

However, the next step is still to get my data logging straight so that I can get some good logs of around town driving as well as some WOT runs. I'm tapping the onboard MAP sensor as well as clamping it and the MAF. I need to find the right scale to use for the MAP sensor to calibrate my data logger to match that of the MAP sensor in the AEM. This will help me tune later because I can then tune off of one set of logs from the SPD. Versus having to compare two sets of logs, one from the SPD and one from the AEM.

Once I get that straight, I'm probably going to perform the tranny mod next, prior to bolting on the SC so I can see what it does while NA. I want to test WOT shifting at the stock power levels to see how much better it grabs to decide which route I need to go on the tranny in the future.

BTW - here are a couple of pics of my wiring job on the AEM and LC-1.

Note how there is one added wiring bundle into the ECU box and how it looks perfectly stock once put back together!

 

Looks really good! Can't wait to hear about the tranny mod. I need that one for my car. I am also very interested in the AEM. I love the Rotrex but no room under my hood at all.

 

Now that is some nice clean work...I am sure this will look like it came from the factory when you are done...good read...

 

OK. Well, a few more notches down.

1 - Removed the passengers side down pipe and welded in the O2 bung for my wideband sensor.

2 - Reversed the O2 mod and now have all O2 sensors working normally with no CEL's + the wideband

3 - Reset the ECU and the AFR at idle is back to a normal 14.7:1

4 - Installed the Blue Top Shift Solenoids and took it for a SPIN!

Notes: With a standard transmission fluid and filter change it is 5 qts of fluid.

OMG this dropping this valve body is different! If you do this, it is a fairly simple operation but there is a big potential gotcha!

1). Drain the fluid
2). Drop the pan
3). Pull the filter
4). Twist the lock on the primary Transmission harness towards the front of the car
5). Remove the harness
6). Now for the good part - make sure to insert an 8mm socket into the plug in the transmission, remove the bolt, then pull out the connector.
7). THEN drop the valve body

I didn't do the next to last step and when I started dropping the valve body I heard a hellacious metal twisting sound. I then had to perform surgery on the valve body circuit board to bring it back to LIFE!!!!!!!!

Also, my drain plug was stuck in there good and no matter how easy I was, the allen socket still stripped it out. I had to drain the fluid the good ole fashion way, loosen up the bolts and tip one end of the pan down a little at a time.

Note - the transmission pan gasket is a semi permanent rubber style and most likely doesn't need to replace. So don't worry about tracking one down. The filter is available at autozone but they will most likely have to order one in so plan in advance.

Oh well, live and learn. I was very lucky not to cause any severe damage. However, that was a gut wrenching feeling to think that I just cost myself thousands of dollars when I saw what was happening! That is a mistake I will not repeat anytime soon!

That said, on to first impressions. Damn! She shifts nice and quick! It is not too harsh. It simply snaps into gear much more quickly than ever before. The 1st to second is really sweet and everything else is much, much crisper and cleaner. The only negative side effect so far is that downshifting while slowing to a stop can be a little clunky. It is like an old style shift kit but for both up and down shifting. I only have about 10 minutes on it so far so I will put some miles on her and report back how it is going. I am especially curious to see how the kickdown feels!

This pretty much paves the way for getting to the really serious stuff now I want to get some good logs tomorrow then pull her back in the garage and start some of the other fun!

 

I need to save this as I want to do this as well...good how to...thanks...don't need any "gotcha's"....and having played with the shift kits as well, the pressure goes both ways...up shifts and down shifts...and the hard down shifts is when problems can arise...

 

Doc,

There is a good write-up on MBWorld.org as well. I'll see if I can find it later.

This is one of the next things I want to do...Just not gonna do it myself...but now that damn hood is making me re-think.


...and I'm saving most of money to head to South Africa in December for a wedding... damn adventures.


Nice write-up Web, glad to see you are making good progress, and glad to see how motivated you are.

I have heard nothing but praises for changing from the brown to the blue top solenoids in the valve body. For automatics, it makes the shifts feel more like those of a manual, which for most AMG enthusiasts is a good thing. Much more firm, and a few have reported it to actually improve their 1/4mile.

 

I thought Rudy (or someone else, I don't remember) confirmed that the SRT transmissions already have the blue top solenoids...?

 

...other way around, it has been confirmed that the SRT transmission has brown top solenoids.

The newer 07+ Mercedes I believe have blue top solenoids.

 

I'm glad I asked, then. Thanks!

 

Progress is looking good so far, can't wait to see the finished product