He's running it in the factory location, so it's blow through. Without the maf voltage clamp he has set in the fic, you'd notice the stock maf is pretty much at it's flow limit.

 

Sorry. I didn't notice a MAF on the charge pipe.

 

Blow through all the way.

First, you want the air temp sensor after the IC and as close to the motor inlet as possible. For now the IAT is in the MAF so the closer the better. Second, having a suck through design, IC plumbing, a BOV venting to atmosphere, and an IC, offers too many degrees of separation between what is happening at the SC intake and the TB.

Drivability and throttle response would suffer in a suck through design. I would also have to disable the iat in the MAF and add one closer to home or the whole tune would suffer.

Also high pressure, low pressure doesn't matter. It is all about measuring actual flow at achieved temperature. As long as the MAF and vane system provides a stable voltage curve that doesn't fluctuate wildly then original design or intention doesn't matter.

 

When you get to the tuning part contact Dynocomp in Scottsdale, Az. They were able to successfully tune Hooleyboy's C55 n/a with an E55 SC on the motor. He spent about 12k on the project, but may have overcame a few bugs that might help on your project. Your right on the tranny though. He ended up sending it out to Renntech in Florida to get it fully rebuilt. Good luck on your project.

 

Made some more progress this weekend!

The Front mount HE I ordered, 26x7x3.5 is one big mamba jamba. In fact, it is too big when thinking about a kit as no one is going to want to do what I had to do to get it in there. The other model I typically use is 26x7x2 and will fit beautifully.

First I had to cut a couple of tabs off of the HE. Then I had to modify the mounts that hold the front bumper on to squeeze it in. Basically, I had to chop off half of each on the back side, then grind down the tab left on the under side of the bumper. I then removed the two studs in the bumper that normally go through the body mounts and turn them around so the studs stick out (to get the nuts on that hold the bumper in place). I did this by drilling the hole in the mounting tab larger and fitting them through from the back before mounting the HE.

The small black HE is for the Rotrex fluid and it is intentionally at an angle. First, a slight angle to prevent air pockets, then a little more exaggerated to account for a mounting stud for the large HE that is in the way and get more exposure to air. There is a lot in the way here!

Next I mounted the Ford lightning pump in the lower front drivers side. I then connected the water lines to everything except for the last piece from the HE output to the IC input (ran out of hose).

I still need to order a couple of black hoses and a new air filter to replace the "blue" and my "junk" air filter on there now. However, I'm waiting until I sure up the list of parts needed so I can order them all at once. I can't seem to find the second part to my banjo fittings for the rotrex fluid lines so that is a pisser.

Next up, wire up the electric for the water pump and put the bumper back on!!!

 

Web, you should find a new place for your horns so you can get some air to your radiator...
You got every nook and cranny filled it looks like.... how long before you fire that ***** up??

 

Good idea, I'll yank them out tomorrow and reposition.

 

I can't stand it when something so small goes AWAL! Watch it'll turn up once you buy a new one. It happens every time...

 

does the fluid for the rotrex need an external pump or is it built into the unit itself?

 

It is built into the Rotrex. The SC only requires hoses to an HE and has an inline magnetic filter. It is a matter of some debate, but some people don't use an HE for low boost applications, but I wouldn't go there.

I'm off to remove the horns and black out all components before I put the bumper back on.

 

Well guys, this week I played around with the position of the air filter and rotrex fluid HE. Then I blacked out the components, installed the missing ic hose, filled the ic system with water, wired in the ic pump (on with the ignition), moved the horns to the drivers side above the IC pump, put the bumper back on (perfect fit), etc.

Next on the list:

FP boost signal
BOV calibration
BOV vac signal
Install Rotrex fluid hoses
Top off Rotrex fluid and prime
Change plugs
Re-install lower front pan
Burp ic system

Unless I run into some sort of hold up, I should have her started by tomorrow!!!!

 

NICE!!!! Glad to see its coming along!!!

 

I'm liking what i'm hearing. Way to stay productive Web!

 

Well, 7 hours in a warm garage after a long week at work at I got everything on my list done. That said, I left two things off yesterday. I still need to brace the top of the rotrex to the motor and I have to go over the AEM wiring.

I have a plan to change a little bit of the wiring and check each pin in the harnesses to make sure they are all making perfect contact.

Everything else is checked, double checked, primed, prepped, and ready to start!

I should have but a few hours in the morning and the big moment for me is finally here. For now, I'm tired, when I'm tired I have a higher potential to make a mistake, so I'll wait until the morning and do it right.

Things to test:

My boost signal to the Fuel Pump Filter and pressure regulator. The way it reads in the service manual, the fuel pump pulls from the tank, goes into the filter/reg assembly, you then have the bypass back to the tank, output to the fuel rail, the other goes to the evap assembly. I capped this line off on the evap side, and ran a boost signal to this location on the filter/reg assembly using 1/8" copper line. I didn't have enough to make it a hard line all the way. Once this proves out, I will buy another section to replace the rubber vac line I used so I don't have to worry about the routing going close to hot spots.

For now I used some thermal sleeve to protect the rubber hose, but I wouldn't want to run it that way forever, because rubber is rubber!

You can't see anything in the grill which is cool, even if you were looking it would be hard. I left the inserts off of the bottom scoop until I can take a dremel to them and open them up to flow air.

Other than that, mid term plans after some tuning will be to make a silencer for the BOV. I know I commented on this before and someone said "but some people like BOV noise", but it is a little different in this type of setup. The way you size a rotrex to make big power, it always flows more air than the motor needs. Therefore, at full vac, the bov should be cracked bleeding off some of the excess air. If you don't silence it or recirculate it, it will make a constant jet type noise

I don't like this at all so I usually make it go away. Even though, on my first trip in my newly rotrex'd spyder to the Dragon, it was awesome sounding. Everyone thought the bat mobile was coming around the corner when they heard it and all eyes were on my car as it drove by wondering what the hell I had under the hood! Cool, but it gets old real fast so bye, bye

Man, and the work isn't over. Once I get her humming, I still have the sways and springs to install! I imagine new tires are going to have to come real fast as well as some konis. I have those crappy Continental eco sports, yuck..

I'm also really happy with the IC pump placement. People always question why I look for a piece of plastic for the mounting point. I mounted it in the lowest horizontal front right corner of the bumper and it makes for near silence. I hate a noisy IC pump and that is usually what you get when you hard mount it to a metal crossmember or other.

Not much to see new in this pic except it is all put back together and a sharp eye will notice a new hose or two

 

So did it start?

Thanks for keeping us updated!

 

 

I was just on youtube making an account to share the quick vids I made of the 2nd and 3rd start!

The first went just as smooth but was just a quick blip to help get the rotrex fluid pumping!

YouTube - 2nd start of the First Rotrex Supercharged Chrysler Crossfire on the planet!

YouTube - 3rd start of the First Rotrex Supercharged Chrysler Crossfire on the planet!

 

BTW - the 2 lights on the dash are the brake light and the low windshield wiper fluid light Knock on wood once, twice, then a third time for good measure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You, sir, are amazing!! Kudos to your for all of this development.

Have you driven it around a bit?

 

Not yet, but soon. I started it 3 times, ran inside to make a youtube account, post the videos, and grab a drink. I'm going to let her run a while, check fluids, check idle, look for anything that might be rubbing, burning, shaking, etc. Then I'll probably take a couple of quick loops around the block and back to the garage for another round of inspections!