Hello Folks,

I have a 2004 Crossfire Coupe. The low coolant light came on about a month ago and went away within about 10 minutes. I never saw it again until this weekend. The coolant light came on again and would go back and forth like it was detecting full then detecting empty. Now the light is solid and wont go off. I took it to firestone for them to refill the coolant for me and to my surprise the coolant was completely full. The mechanic told me that something else was wrong with the car and there was nothing anyone could do for me. He refused to put coolant in it of course and sent me on my way with the "damn" light still on. I need to know if the switch is broken or the bobber is stuck or what to do. Please help me.

 

Just a guesstament on my part, but I would check the coolant level myself when the engine is cold. DO NOT CHECK HOT
If the level is good, check the wiring to the tank sensor, if wiring is good replace the sensor.

Just my Dos Centavos

 

your fan is shot.

 

... ..a bad fan wouldn't make the low coolant light come on. I would go with what Stogey said.

 

Are you a mechanic? i speak from experience. Nobody on here knew the answer when i was in his shoes.

 

You can learn something new everyday. I have been in the business for 28 years and have yet to ever hear that the low coolant light comes on because of the electric fan. I can't say that I have worked on the Crossfire coolant warning system, but that don't sound right.

99% of the time, your issue will be with the recovery tank sensor/and or connection/wiring.

If you find something different, I would like to know.

James

 

I just searched through the service manual several times. Nothing says that the "low coolant" indicator is connected to the fan circuits. Please explain.

James

 

Sorry, I guess I was wrong. After doing a little reading I guess the Germans also have temp sensor built in with the coolant level switch unlike most cars that have a separate sensor.

 

Check for a bad earth on the sensor.
I doubt its conected to the fans but they can always have an effect on one another.

I had a similar problem on my BMW cars It turned out that the connector block had been corroded by water and worked fine after a little maintenance oil and wire brush.

 

you guys can doubt all you want, but i was in his shoes months back. and of course the service manual isn't going to say anything, all it ever tells you is to take it in to the $hop. maybe its not the fan. i believe the light only kicked on when the fan was suppose to.

 

Ok I now have the Coolant Level Light on as well, 32,000 miles on my 04 Coupe... did check the coolant level the next morning after the engine was cold and it needed some so I added some, light when out, today it is back on, coolant level is fine and the car is NOT running hot. Now I did have an oil leak around the filter and it made a mess as you might guess, and upon inspection of the tank and the sensor I find that it is covered in oil and now dust and dirt as well.

Where would I get a new sensor?????... providing that one is bad and too am I too the point where maybe I should think about having the radiator flushed??? Car is 6 years old... ?????

Deb

 

OK Guys today the Crossfire OVERHEATED, I was sitting in line at the bank happened to look down bammmmm thing was almost in the RED ZONE!!!! Immediately shut it off and turned on the heater full blast, watch the needle moved back down to normal quickly.... whewwwww close one... took it over to my mechanic and they looked at it. Scratching their heads, coolant level ok, no fan running.... then I suggested that maybe it was a fuse... checked the 50 AMP fuse that in the small compartment just in front of the battery, sure enough was blown, put a new one in, seems ok at the moment, will check it tomorrow and see if it overheats and if the fan is actually coming on....

 

warning warning Will Robinson::::::danger approaches.

THe blown fan fuse is an indication of an impending fan failure. your insulation is probably degraded and the over current is a result. I know as I have rewound motors and disected many many more. Have a DC ampmeter check out the fan to see its draw.

Our fans start out at about 4 FOUR volts from the controller and ramp up to about 8 to 10 volts. IF your fan is snafu it could kill the controller ( driver fender) and cost you bunches. Dont allow this to become more than it is. When steady driving the fan is off most of the time, stop and go is the biggest load on the fan increasing the use and run time. BTW dont try 12 volts direct on your fan unless your looking for motor failure/trouble.

Coolant level is in the passenger fender, biggy tank. There is a switch in the tank. Unplug it and dont cuss me for its location. The light should go out and prove the deal to you. Id say that the float has sunk or gotten water logged. You can check the cost of a new float switch and decide if you want to replace it or just keep your eye on the level. Level does not change much unless your cooling system is really leaking and going TANGO UNIFORM ( TU for the lay persons ).

WEEKEND AND 78 DEGREES. Yippie. WOODY

 

Thanks for that great info Woody Danny

 

for thoise with coolant light issues but the tank is full try filling the windshield resovoir. if its low it will cause a light!

 

OK Today, now that the fuse has been replaced.... ran the car up to operating temperature and then let it sit running with the AC on in the driveway for a long time... never got above the halfway mark on the temp guage and checked that the fan is running... soooo not sure if all is well, but will keep a close eye on it.

 

Same issue happened to me (05 w/92K miles). I swapped the one off the circuit next to it in the box (for the ABS/ESP) and ran it on that for about a week while waiting for a new fuse to come in. BTW, these things are unobtainable anywhere around Chattanooga, which has its share of parts stores! I bought 3 and replaced both and it has run fine so far. I stuck the third in an empty slot in the box as a spare. My hope is that the manic antics of the cooling fan (coming on at a red light for 5 seconds at a time, etc.) for those years and miles had just taken its toll on the fuse. I'll update if it blows again, of course, but I'm not replacing the fan motor just yet!

 

I did wind up having to replace the radiator fan in my car, it kept blowing the fuse, bough the fan, shroud and all on ebay for $139.00 had it in like 15 minutes. No problems since.

 

I have a 06 Coupe. The loew coolant level light has been on since October (Car not driven much in winter). We replaced the coolant level probe in the tank. Light still will not go off. How do I tell if the fan motor is bad? I ran the car in garage for 15 minutes today and heat gage never went much above half way but fan did not go on.
Also, does anyone know of a good Cross fire mechanic in SW Michigan?
Thanks
Howdconst

 

You could pull the fan, and hook it up direct to battery just to test. If OK, you could have a bad fan controller. As far as a mechanic, don't know exactly where you are in SW Michigan, but it might be worth it to get it to Speedriven (Rudy) in Palatine, Illinois. He's the best! Driving the car when its cool/cold out is better than when its hot and you need the AC. Even if the fan/controller is bad, your car shouldn't heat up....... just sayin