I had the resonator removed my SRT this evening. It came out really clean. Chris who did the work took the time to measure the dimensions for the Y-Pipe (actually a merge collector – wait tell you see the pics) and U-bend a week before the install. I made a CAD drawing for the Y-Pipe and sent it to Burns Stainless and there is now a custom part number for ordering if anybody would like to follow this route.

First the part numbers:

Burns Stainless
1013 W. 18th Street
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
949-631-5120
Ask for Vince Roman

MC2304-238-16
Merge Collector with two 2-3/8 flared inputs (3-3/8 center) into one 2-3/4 output – (16 Gauge 304 SS) - $180.00 (I hope the pictures do this part justice)

304-UB-275-40-16
16 gauge 2-3/4” U-bend with 4.0” radius 304 SS – no flares (stock item) - $76.57

Second – The Shop

Chris has a nice shop and still races ¾ midgets and once raced Speedway bikes with the likes of “Flying Mike Faria” and “Bad Brad Oxley” for those in the 70/80’s So. Cal racing scene. He had several midgets, sprint and other race cars at his shop and also some vintage bikes in various states of restoration. It was a cool shop to hang out at and I ended helping a lot more then I thought. The only bummer was that his TIG welder was down and he had to purchase some Stainless Wire for MIG welder. TIG Welds would have been over the top.

The job added only three pieces, the Y-pipe and the U-bend cut into two pieces and trimmed to fit.

The first cut was approx 2” behind the stock cross-over pipe. The heat shield bracket there was removed and the welds ground smooth so the stock pipes would slip into the merger collector. The second piece was one half of the U-bend that was butt welded to the output of the merge collector and turned 90 deg and slightly down towards the driver side. The second half was butt welded onto the first half and made the 90 deg turn towards the muffler and then butt welded to the pipe feeding the muffler. I should add that the 2-3/4 stock pipe that exits the resonator was cut right at the resonator and I mean right at it.

The three pieces were fitted and tacked up while I made sure the exhaust tips were straight and then the whole assembly (tips to the stock bolt flanges) was removed and welded up off the car, checked for leaks and then bolted right up to the stock mounts. The mount that held the resonator was re-used to support the rear bend.

I think it came out great, Chris (and I) worked until 7 PM and I was glad to pay him 3 hours at his shop rate. He definitely had the race builder’s touch, grinding and making sure all joints were flush with no gaps to wield. I love the sound of the exhaust, strong but not on steroids, throaty but not obnoxious.

More pictures in my gallery.

 

 

I EVEN GOT A STICKER FOR MY CABINET!!

 

 

 

that's really good work... I just threw in any cheap y pipe in there knowing i'll likely be redoing the exhaust set up anyways... but that is clearly professional work...

 

Nice work. What do you think about the difference in sound/performance? Looks great.

 

Good job, Nice shop!!

Now you need to replace that goofy squashed oval pipe on the passenger side. and pull out the cats and plug in an O2 sim. then I want to see some dyno numbers! I like that merged collector, very nice quality.

Though I don't think it's necessary to have that H pipe crossover before the collector, since it does the same thing as the H.

 

Man, I want that set-up! I have a buddy with a lift in his garage. I think we can do this. Do you just buy the two new pieces?

 

Why not have a shop do it? It's quick easy and cheap...

 

VERY NICE looking job. But did he not reinstall a hanger where the OEM one was?

 

Looks nice!

I'm more anxious to hear what you think of the sound/performance difference.

Things I need now:

Resonator Removal
Spring Booster
Renntech Kit

You guys are making this car expensive to own!

 

Excellent work! Top notch!

I too would be interested in what the performance difference is ... if any.

If none or minimal, then I'll keep the stock exhaust... I like my sleeper...

Cheers!

 

Must have been the dirty hands and the flash, no squashed, bent or scratched ovals. I can't remove the CATS - Smog inspection every 2 years.

I did not have the materials to remove the H pipe, 2 small lengths of 2- 3/8 SS pipes with flares for the brackets would have done the trick.

Those were the only two pieces of material used. Just a welder, grinder and cut off saw for tools. No torch. You Might get a better price from Burns now that they have made a prototype.

Yup - Camera ran out of memory at the end of the evening. (welded on back side).

No noticeable performance difference. Love the sound, not too loud - just healthy - like it should have sounded stock.

You can have this upgrade done at 1/2 the cost if you are willing to use dissimilar metals in your exhaust system. Any Muffler place can bend/weld soft steel pipe. You might not like the look after a year or two or then again, it might not be important to you.

The super trick upgrade would be to find a shop that can mandrel bend Stainless, cut the resonator out and go dual 2 -3/8 to dual mufflers with some nice tips. But very $$, or you could go duals using soft steel tubes for the short run from the resonator to the mufflers.

My criteria was to add as few pieces has possible with the fewest welds, using SS material of the same size.

Off the shelf Y-pipes that I looked at would not fit/slip in at the dual pipes due to the spread and were to long to clear the differential and I would have needed more material.

So I gave Burns the drawing to fab up and it fit like a champ.

 

Does it sound like the link on this thread?

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ad.php?t=18165

That sounds a little more raspy than I expected, and actually louder than I expected.

SQ

 

Two threads going at once on the same topic. Members who have done this maybe you can help us out with some of the questions posted on the previous link.

 

Shawn,

It's hard to say. I am on the inside and things are different.

I just got back from a little run. I only drove it home last night when we were done so now I had a chance to open it up on a nice twisty road punching it and shifting from second to third and back down (Decker Canyon Road for those familiar with Malibu) and it sounds great.

At idle just a subtle wuh wuh wuh, when feathering in traffic - still pretty quite, punch it and WOW! nice and deep with a rich healthy tone.

When I picked up my new sporty, it sounded like a Honda. I ask the Harley Dealer WTF? And they made me a deal on a set of Screaming Eagle mufflers. Then it sounded like a Harley. I removed the baffles in the SE mufflers and it sounded like Hells Angels. Put the baffles back in Happy with Harley Sound.

Same thing, I think it sounds like it should have stock. If you were to change the SRT Muffler you would remove the resonator anyway so look at it as a partial mod that won't go to waste.

 

Just spoke with Vince.

The Collector price is still $180 because they have to make to order anyway, so no discount on them even though the design part is already taken care of.

The U-Bend, for whatever reason, is now $88.06 (quoted over phone).

So, looks like $268.06 plus shipping, and tax if you are in CA.

I may or may not go this route - still need to get some local quotes and see what I can come up with.

SQ

 

usually this is the squashed exhaust pipe on the passengers side, unless you have an SRT, then maybe you have a better exhaust system then the limited model.

 

From what I know, the exhaust is indeed different on the SRT and limited/base.

But, I haven't had them side by side so that I could actually see the difference.