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The engine is in place, and a few bell housing bolts are in and the torque converter bolts are torqued.
I got a call from my father at 10:45 about a ton of water in the drivers side and rear drivers floor board of his 06 Silverado Duramax. I figured his sunroof drains were plugged and told him to bring it over...… 3 1/2 hours later we have narrowed it to a leaky body seam in the cowl area. Spray water in the cowl on the drivers side and the water just pours down the firewall on the inside of the truck. What a shitty seam sealer they used too, its a soft closed cell foam.... not the typical hard seam sealer you would expect to see.
We have had one of the wettest winters that I can remember around here.
Anyways, he took it home to dry it out, remove all the foam he can, and then seal it with M1 urethane.
I'm just now getting back to working on the engine install.
I plan on deleting the cats, that will make the exhaust less restrictive.
Jared
on my N/A I delete rear cats and put in a magna flow dual in / dual out in place where the rear cats where, one side has a 2 or 3 bolt flange, just welded the mate on muffler, and did disbthebsame on the other pipe, so rear section comes off easy if needed, and dual 2 1/4 pipes back, got rid of the sharp bend after the rearend and nice and gradual with quad angle and slanted tips.
I have a thread on how I did my pipes.
If interested in my setup I can repost the thread.
If you delete the fronts you will throw a code, as the rear 02 sensors will be reading the same as the fronts, confront of and after front converters.
I fix this in my trucks by adding a stainless elbow and short extension.
but on some vehicles it messes with the fuel.
on my N/A I delete rear cats and put in a magna flow dual in / dual out in place where the rear cats where, one side has a 2 or 3 bolt flange, just welded the mate on muffler, and did disbthebsame on the other pipe, so rear section comes off easy if needed, and dual 2 1/4 pipes back, got rid of the sharp bend after the rearend and nice and gradual with quad angle and slanted tips.
I have a thread on how I did my pipes.
If interested in my setup I can repost the thread.
If you delete the fronts you will throw a code, as the rear 02 sensors will be reading the same as the fronts, confront of and after front converters.
I fix this in my trucks by adding a stainless elbow and short extension.
but on some vehicles it messes with the fuel.
Rear O2 sensors are being programmed out.
We don't have emissions testing around here anymore and I'm going to take advantage.
The MF dual in / out measured out to be the closest fit I could find to be in the exact place the rear cats where at, to keep the muffler under car not in the back and sharp bends.
What's the total expenses for the "World Cheapest V8 Swap"?
Car $800
Engine $250
ECU rebuild and coding $1000
MB Star C4 DAS Xentry system $677
Electric fan $70
Junkyard Parts $250
Oil, Filters, Coolant, PS Fluid $140
For a total of $3187
Jared
Last edited by lotsofspareparts; 02-13-2020 at 11:17 AM.
Reason: Additional costs added
It's time for looking Xfire with a clean title for $800 and V8 for $250
Completely forgot, I already have the whole donor sl55 AMG so I don't need a motor.
It's time for looking Xfire with a clean title for $800 and V8 for $250
Completely forgot, I already have the whole donor sl55 AMG so I don't need a motor.
Sounds like you should perform the swap!!
It was 10 times easier than installing the V8 in my S10. Wiring was the biggest issue with that swap though, all the hard parts were pretty much bolt on.
Re: Worlds Cheapest V8 Swap
