Let me just start of by saying this. What I did was stupid, I know. Anyway,

I removed the Central Locking Pump to try and fix it. It needs a new one so I didn’t want to put everything back together in the trunk before I got it. I tried starting the car without the old pump, and when I turned the key all the way over, I heard a clunk (could be a relay or mechanical) from under the driver side of the car. Then all the electricals died. I disconnected the battery and reinstalled my old pump. Turn the key over and same thing. There feels to be some sort of lock stopping me from turning the key over and pressing the brake

I just got the car, and would have to already have to bring it in. Any help would be amazing

 

What you DID does not appear stupid, and your post is not stupid, but it is hard to read and not informative at all.

I was with you up to "all the electricals died". What does that mean?

And I BELEIVE, Im not sure, but I do think that the car should crank (engage starter) and start without the pump installed. I cannot say for sure, but I do not think that the ECU checks with the pump controller before starting the car, it only checks with the SKREEM.

You are asking for help with a technical issue, 'same thing' is not helpful. EXACTLY what happened?

Again, what are you saying? Once you turn the key to "start" and let go, you cannot turn it back to "start" until you turn it back to "lock", this is a part of the design - do not let this distract you.
As to "stopping me from pressing the brake" - what is stopping your foot from pressing the brake?

Try to remember, NONE of us are standing there with your car, all we have to go on to diagnose the system of thousands of parts that is called 'your car', is the few words you type. So far, you are making this impossible.
Bring it in, where? If you refer to a dealer -sell the car for parts NOW - you will be way ahead! (See my sigline, it is not sarcasm at all, it is a WARNING.) If you are thinking of taking this car to a dealer, I would agree - you are about to do something very stupid. (Since you are now informed, you can't plead ignorance, if you take the car to a dealer, "stupid" is all we can offer. )

 

Thanks for the detailed reply! I’ll try to answer the questions in better detail.

1. All the electrical systems didn’t work. When I put the car in accessories mode, light, gauges, horn didn’t work. Even the little screens that display miles, temp and clock would shut off after trying to start the car. But if I disconnected the negative battery cable, all electrics would work again. Until I tried to start it, then they would shut off. No matter where I turned the key, nothing worked.

2. The engine didn’t even crank. The starter didn’t engage. Like I said, everything that had to do with the electrical system was working.

3. By same thing I meant all of the electrics weren’t working. Everything mechanical on the car was normal, but the electrics didn’t work.

4. I horribly worded this. I later understood that the “ignition lock” is a feature. As for the brake “locking” I believe this was just in my head. The brake was perfectly fine, I was just very panicked

I did get the car running. Honestly I have no clue how. I had a friend come over and he just jiggled around the Central Vacuum Pump, shaking it up and down from the wires. I was wincing and told him to stop. He then asked to show me what the car does when I try to start it. I then tried to show him that when I turn the key over, the electrics shut down. Then the car started when I turned the key haha. He said he has no clue what he did. I’m glad the car is working, but I don’t want this to happen again.

This might be a stupid question but i’m new to Xfires. Why not take it into a dealer? Do I take it into a 3rd party mechanic? Or do I service the car myself? Any advice would be great

 

How old is the battery ?
Kinda sounds like all you have is a 'surface' charge as evidenced by the LCD panels going blank when you turn the key.
Just guessing.

 

Anyway, here’s a picture of the apparent problem

That is one of the connectors on the Vacuum Pump. When I clicked the central lock button on the interior or the lock/unlock button on the keys, I would here a click from the unit. I disconnected the vacuum tubes, and one by one tried to feel anything from the unit. Nothing, just clicks. Does this mean the entire unit is bad, or just the connector? If it’s just the connector(which has some pins that have corroded off), can I buy one and solder it on?

 

Nope battery fine. It started up. But I do have some more questions in my reply’s if you have some advice on them

 

You cannot take this car to a dealer. The Crossfire is an SLK320 with a different body - it is all Mercedes. Essentially no Chrysler dealer knows anything about them, and since Diamler/MB/Chrysler have broken up, there is no tech support at Chrysler for this car. If you can find an MB dealer (not likely) that will work on it, fine. Otherwise, go to any shop you trust for brakes, fluid changes, etc. Go to a German/MB shop for anything else.

I'm having a hard time believing the wiring in the trunk is part of this "no start". If it occurs again, reset the key to "OFF" and turn on headlights. If they come on, turn to "start" and if they die out, you have a bad battery or loose/bad battery connection.

It's really hard to say what is going on here. I just have a problem believing that what you were doing in the trunk is the issue.
What ya think, George? I just don't see it.

 

I'm not convinced your battery is fine, but YOU are standing there so you'd know more than us.
I am getting the idea you have a loose/bad battery cable connection, or similar. I just don't know.

 

You’re right, I am with the car. But i’m sure you know more about them then I do. So I got my battery tester and it passed that. It’s also reading 12.7v on my multimeter. Maybe there was a short somewhere in the vacuum pump system and he knocked it loose? That’s probably a reach but there is lots of blue corrosion around the wires, and one wire even broke loose from its harness. But then again, no fuses were blown. And the more I think about that possibility, I don’t think that’s it. The car still wouldn’t start with the vacuum pump out of the car.

The car has driven perfectly, I road tripped it from Cali to Colorado, zero problems. The dealer had to charge the battery when I first got there, but other than that the battery has been perfect. This problem only started when I took the vacuum pump out. Ever since my friend tossed it around and “fixed” it, it’s started multiple times without fail.

What are your thoughts concerning the health of my vacuum pump? I described the issues in one of my previous posts on this thread. Do I need a new one? Or if possible just replace the connector?

 

These cars have run fine with no problem even when the pump in the trunk was underwater and totally ruined.

 

If the dealer had to charge the battery, I would start there and be sure all of the connections are clean and tight. To actually test the battery, it must be under load. These cars are very sensitive to battery issues.

 

This is getting very frustrating, the battery is not "perfect".

WHY would the dealer need to charge the battery? Had the car sat for a long time? If so, keep in mind that a battery left at very low charge for a long time is usually a bad battery. It will test fine in so far as terminal voltage (which is NOT a valid test), but it's capacity to deliver 300 amps to the starter will be questionable. Additionally, if a cell has died, terminal voltage during cranking will be low - if it is TOO low, there is your issue.

This is not 1970 - a weak battery that turns the engine over may not be good enough to start the car - several modules will not function below about 10.2-10.8 volts. The starter may or may not turn over, and the ECM may not fire the injectors or plugs properly at such low voltage. Yes, troubleshooting a 'no start" or "no crank" in Crossfires and other modern cars is not as easy as it was back in the days of coil/distributor ignition or when there was no computer in the car.

Given the history here, it's time to simply replace the battery. SIDE NOTE: I do not allow a battery past 48 months in anything I drive these days.

 

Post of the day, ZE.
It will take a few more posts, but we will get thru to our new member. Hopefully, before he spends tons of money going in circles with dealers (may pee be upon them) and shops....

 

Yea, how many people pull the pump and find it in 4 inches of water, totally destroyed - all the while, driving it every day?

 

Haha you got thru to me don’t worry. The more you talk about it being the battery the more sense it makes to me. The car takes about half a second more to fire up than I would expect. Just as soon as I would think the engine would fire, it cracks for a little more then fires up. I’ll change out the battery and see if that helps

Thanks for all the advice and reply’s!!

 

Let us know.

 

I personally wouldn't go past 36 months because of how picky Crossfires can be with the battery and because batteries do not last as long as they used to. The original Varta battery was very well built.

 

First step . . You should have the Battery tested somewhere , with the proper equipment .Changing parts to see if it fix a problem ,even a Battery , is not always the best way .

First place to look at with any electrical problem on a car start at the Battery . This is what the car mechanic teacher use to say to is students in the old time .

Monitoring Battery voltage while the starter is active with an non digital voltmeter is still a good way to test even with modern cars .

Daniel