I’ve had a parasitic draw on my srt6 for over a year. Kept a trickle charge on the battery so I could start in the morning. Recently I moved to a new location where attaching a trickle was not feasible. I resorted to detaching the battery. In five days I am due for a NYC inspection. After driving the car 200 miles to reset the computer I still failed the test: computer was not reset. Had the battery checked and it was in good shape. My friend checked the battery and draw from major systems I temp, headlights etc) found no issues. With 115K, its come to the point where I may need to let go of the coupe. Can’t keep it parked not he street without an inspection sticker and not too excited about having someone possibly spend god know how many hours finding the draw and sending me the bill. I guess I could dedicate a weekend t the project myself with my trusty ammeter but after having to replace my RCM three weeks ago ( car would not start period), I wonder what will go next. With all this said, any suggestions about where to start looking for that draw???

Thx
Paulius

 

You need to put the amp meter on one of the battery leads and start removing fuses until you see a drop in current draw. That should help you narrow it down to what is on that fuse circuit.

 

Insert a DVM in the battery ground lead. Wait three minutes for modules to hibernate. What is the current reading?

Anything over .055 amp (55 millliamp) is too much. I suspect you will see at least .3 or .5 amp.

Remove each 50 amp fuse in the little box next to the battery - did that do it? One if brake controller, one is fan controller.
If that doesn't do it, yank the 200 amp fuse - if that did it, start pulling fuses in the underhood fuse box after pulling each fuse, IF the current goes UP, wait three minutes then look at it again. Eventually you will find the cause.

If you can't get current down after pulling fuses, or if pulling the 200 amp did NOTHING, yank the big battery cable off the back of the alternator - did that do it? Have it rebuilt, it has one or more leaky diodes.

Or take it somewhere that the 'mechanics' know less than you do and pay out the *** for them to guess. Virtually NO ONE understand basic electricity these days. It's sad, but the average American is dependent on others at every level of their existence. I, personally, was raised to learn to do stuff on my own. It has served me well.

End' of advice and rant.........

 

If you don"t have a DVM, a 12volt test light will do the trick.

 

Really. How do you accurately measure current in the 50 to 200 milliamp range (or any range) with a test light?

 

THank you. I will give you advice a shot
Pau;ius

 

NOT!




Right on!



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Keep driving it. It took over 200 miles for all my systems to reset. Happened to me a few times with the NYS Inspection. Now I have them check it first to see if it's ready for the inspection. I was told these cars use a lot of power just sitting. Good Luck.

 

All you are looking for is which circuit has the current draw. Test light is placed in line at the neg post on battery. Start pulling fuses when light goes out, that circuit has the current draw.

 

hello I had the same problem my car was rejected 3 time. to reset it you have to disconnect negative and positive cable from battery, find a way to connect positive and negative cable together for 5 minutes while is disconnected from the battery. ( i used jumper cables), turn on the light so what ever energy is stored in the computer is drained. after about 5 minutes, turn off the lights and reconnect the battery. drive 300 miles DO NOT let your gas tank go below 3/4 = .75 of gas. I filled up the tanks as soon as it was half way empty/ full.

that fixed the problem.

 

I do not think you understand the problem, so your solution is not valid.



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start by removing the siren under the hood. that little sucker is the cause of 90% of the excessive draw issues i have come across. the more rare one has been a shorted blower motor resistor causing the blower motor to come on and off at random.