Hey guys
I am going to post picks of the crank pulley and how bad it was (read: real) but I have a new problem now.

I went ahead and bought a crank seal and bolt to complete the job. During the job when I was at the seal, I almost did not replace it since it was dry and the car only has 27,400 miles.
But I had the part and the car is pushing 11 years old so I went ahead and installed it. It went in too easy---so I thought at time---but it was in and removing it would have destroyed it.
Well, you know where this is going---It's leaking and doing a good job at it.

I bought it from Rob and it's a MB part with the number---A 0239778447.
The net says it the correct part but it does not have the metal ring like Rob has on the site or like the one on the car that I removed.

Before I changes it, I double checked the part number on the bag with the net and it was the same so I went ahead since I know that updates and looks can change some.

I wished I did not now but here I am. Any ideas?
All help has usual is greatly appreciated.

Jimmy

 

If it did not leak why did you feel that you should change the seal in the first place? My motto is if it has not failed do'nt fix it. Mind you when I was younger and got a little bored I would change something, preventive maintenance I called it but it was a waste of time mostly.

 

Like I said above I almost didn't but it was 11 years old.

To answer your question---I owned 3 tires/ general repair shops for 10 years and when I would do timing belts for customers I would recommend cam and a front crank seal at the time---60 to 90k.
Most of these cars were under 10 years old at that mileage. I did so to cover my butt because having the car leak in a year or two would make me the "bad guy" since I was there not that long ago and going back in was not cheap.

Same thing here---11 years old seal and I was there.
I thought twice and even three times because it was dry and it was different in the look.
The part number lined up after I checked so I did it.

Do you have any idea why the correct number went in so easily?
I went to trash to retrieve the part bag and checked again on the net and the number is the one for the car---so they say.

Any help will be nice.
Thanks Jimmy

 

do u mean the spring that goes behind the lip on the seal? that keeps pressure seal lip. jim

 

Thanks for the reply.
I did not see a spring when I took out the old one and the install video for the seal that I pulled up did not point one out either. It may be too late to checkout the old seal now but this would explain why it was easier than I thought it should be.

Does this spring have a part number?

 

I highly doubt it, the tiny coil spring with loops on each end that are connected is sized for each seal, and is an intrinsic part of each seal.
This spring serves to hold the rubber part against the polished rotating shaft to prevent oil seepage.
Contact Rob at NeedsWings, I'm sure he will do whatever he can to remedy the situation.

NOTE: Some seals do not have the spring ( they rely on pressure difference to keep the seal against the shaft ), but most do.

 

THANKS AGAIN
I have set Rob an email already and I am going to call too.
Hindsight is 20/20 and I should have just passed in the seal but I did not.

 

did u check the pulley when u had it out.. take a look mat what mine did. I replaced the seal when it was good found this before reinstalling the pulley got a new pulley and now everything is good jim

 

My pulley was fine in this area---The rubber is out about a 1/3 of the way around and at the max, it is out about 3/4 in an inch.

The old seal was dry and like I said, it had a different look but after checking the part number, I installed it since the old one was 11 years and counting. This has turned out to be the wrong move.

I just wonder why it went in so easily---The old one took a bit to get out.
It was not that difficult but it did not just slide out either.

I just want the next time to be the last time for awhile.

Thanks

 

if it is leaking i would replace it again. to be safe this time put peratex on the edge of the seal making sure it seals between seal and housing. it should not go in with just a light tap or hard push. jim

 

THANKS
I know---I was think the same.
I am not driving it until the new seal comes---Just talked to Rob

 

IT'S TRUE---as many have said here---ROB IS GREAT.
He just returned my call after reading the post---the email to him---and the message left for him. A new seal is on the way and "new" instructions too.

I said above that I watched a video on the install and the guy used a small amount of oil on just his finger to swipe the lip of the block---I followed and did this too.

Rob says---per the manufacturer---DRY and then let sit for 4 hours---I did NEITHER.
I am pretty sure the "wet" part was the problem since it went in so easily.
The 4 hour part never had a chance---IMO.

The part should be here Wednesday so I will know more soon.
Thanks to all here and Rob.

 

Jim, you gotta keep in mind your crank pulley is totally different from those of us still running the stock motor. It looks like you even have the crank pulley that comes with different size outer rings. Mustanks seem to run a similar setup.

 

I am 100% stock---I bought A 1120351600---MB# to replace and it fit great.
I will post pic of the old one later. The pics posted on this thread are not of my pulley.

 

not that much different Chuk,, and yes, mine was a ring change type, that was the 178
I am also dowl pining mine next week.

 

Hahahaha, wrong Jim! I was referring to amx1397, who is also named Jim. I'm friends with him and know his car well. His supercharged V8 has an aftermarket crank pulley that doesn't look much like a V6 crank pulley.

 

Some pics of oil seals to show some of the variety of designs out there.
All seals leak a little, the leakage lubricates the friction face and keeps the seal working.
As you can see some have the spring on the lip and some do not.
A big name in seals is/was Chicago Rawhide, guess what they used in some of their seals.
They are now owned by the bearing company SKF.

 

Thanks One hundred 80
Rob is getting me a new seal and he said---Install DRY and let it sit for 4 hours.
I'll let it sit for 4 days if it will be the last time for the next 10 years to turn that bolt.
It was not as hard as I thought but it was on there. When I heard it break lose I thought I broke it off it was so loud. It actually echoed off the neighbors house.

Thanks again for the help.
Jimmy