I noticed this today. I was not too surprised when the top hose was without coolant when I popped the hood when I first went out to the car this morning but then I checked the lower and it too was "flat"? Any observation of this phenomenon? I do have the heat exchanger cutoff but for this start I opened both valves and when warm/hot the hoses were pressurized. Closed them both again. I want to get my engine to run cooler as I am in SW Florida which is very hot and humid most of the year. Now when it is in the 70's the motor loves it and you can feel the power. Chuk likely got me straight on getting datalogs with the E/C datalog feature. I know my car could be tuned better once I get mechanics work "repaired"! Sad huh? I pay a high $300. to have the rear cats and back removed and replaced with the magnaflow TRU X-pipe(internal muffler) which is a quality piece accomplishing two issues, keeps the exhaust quieter while using the x-pipe feature to help balance the odd firing of the V6 motor, making more power, then I used a magnaflow "Y" pipe to reduce the dual outlets of the muffler into a single 3" pipe, deleting the resonator and exiting through a Borla Pro XS muffler. The shop removed the "bar/brace" that the stock piping goes up and over which I overheard them talk about figuring they were putting it back in place after the muffler until the next day I check and no brace, no brace at the shop but the stock muffler is there/resonator also. I left a message that if the owner does not find the part around his shop he should source a replacement for me, fat chance as this was a no paperwork job.
I am questioning if a freeflow exhaust helps keep a motor run cooler? I also want to try the 4 drilled holes in the T-stat as Mimi said when he was in Florida it worked great for him. I notice if the needle for the engine heat stays at 9AM or less is where the motor makes more power. I understand I can have Jerry tune the fan to operate in high speed whenever the fan is called for. The extra noise from the fan should not bother me. Once the radiator hose is said to be correct or is repaired getting the motor to run cooler is something I can do that should not be costly and provide some real power gains so ANY suggestions to keep the engine cooler are appreciated. I know the engine has an optimal temp range for keeping the engine efficient and the emissions down, etc., we just want the intake air temps down and one thing I thought about was using a shield between the filter(s) and the radiator so the filters cannot draw in hot air as guys have tested and the DCAI is overkill so the shield will not keep the engine choking for air.
Here I will summarize as I am rambling. For a cooler running motor:
1. Drill 4 .25" holes in the t-stat so some coolant is flowing all the time keeping the engine cool where it likes to be for the feel of the power.
2. Shields between the filters and the radiator as the DCAI from Rob will still get plenty of air to the motor.
3. has anyone tried spraying water onto the heat exchanger and/or radiator set perhaps to operate under WOT?
4. have the tune modified to run at full rpm when ever the fan is called for, anything here except to put up with the noise?
I have a PLXDevices wideband but no other gauges and can datalog with the E/C software. Jerry has been great and I don't take advantage of him as I know he is a busy guy. Looking forward to see my boost and timing with a good log.
What other gauges should I consider must haves? My hearing is so poor I could never hear knock and cell phones with their songbird chirps..........my sister comes from another room to answer her phone that is in the room I'm in but I hear NOTHING, huh? Enough for now! thanks, mark

 

Read my posts to see all that I designed and tried, hood mod, bigger HE, stat, insulated DCAI and such. Do not spray radiator with anything other than distilled water or it will disappear from corrosion!! Enjoy Woody

 

For the hose to flatten there is air in the system as you know. I'd say run it with all systems open until the tank will take no more coolant. It is amazing how much air gets trapped in that system.
The hoses will collapse because of the low pressure in the system, normally it would take coolant from the overflow tank to balance the pressure out, separated systems may not have access to the tank.
But you know all this.

 

Your likely fighting a loosing battle since the engine temperature on these motors is modulated by the electric fan that the ecu controls. If the great Waldig is unable to come up with a viable solution there isnt one.

 

Well what would be wrong with drilling the holes in the thermostat? Even if this delays the fan from coming on and the engine will still reach the temp where the fan operation is initiated. So maybe it goes longer before the fan needs to come on due to the engine being cooler, more a track trick that street. I know my engine runs past 192* now when it is over 90* here. I just want it to hold the temp the t-stat is designed for. Jerry could still have the fan come on sooner and at a higher rpm, remap the cooling data so to speak. the motor runs so much better on the cool side. I recently did the exhaust I have been talking about, sans headers, and the motor seems to scream and I think half of that is due to the cooler weather and half the exhaust effect. The rear cats were already hollowed out. man the resonator and muffler are heavy!
How about a second fan, a pusher type if there is room? must be a way to get the motor to run the designated temp and from what I see it is not even trying on hot days to get low enough. I preferred Leary's older form of learning. nature has so much more to offer me compared to man's inventions and allowed discoveries. Too bad timothy gave up on knowing his creator on a personal level, huh?

 

I have a 180 stat i built long ago, has fleas as it will code if I get on it too fast on a cool day. Drilling stat does little as the fan controls the cooling unless your driving forward in which case the engine can code as it thinks that it has not warmed up fast enough!!!!!!!!! Cooling is keeping the radiator in range and fans help that some, hood helps especially when at the track in line waiting. Woody There are a lot of code waiting to mess your day up..................Enjoy WDY

 

[QUOTE=Sweet2002;8603i I have a PLXDevices wideband but no other gauges and can datalog with the E/C software. Jerry has been great and I don't take advantage of him as I know he is a busy guy. Looking forward to see my boost and timing with a good log.
What other gauges should I consider must haves? My hearing is so poor I could never hear knock and cell phones with their songbird chirps..........my sister comes from another room to answer her phone that is in the room I'm in but I hear NOTHING, huh? Enough for now! thanks, mark[/QUOTE]

Mark, an Ultra Gauge can be a very useful device as it shows about 35 or so parameters of our cars. Our computer is pretty sophisticated and measures much useful info, plus you can customize the readouts to your liking. That is if we have the same computer! They go for about $65 on the internet.

 

And the instant and average MPG is surprisingly accurate, IF you program the parameters correctly.
I like to watch the IAT reading as compared to the ambient reading on the instrument panel, as well as the engine temp. Mine usually runs around 186 deg, the temp dial is one needle width below half at that temp.
In the summer, idling with A/C on, I have seem 210 deg, the needle is 2 widths above half.

 

While I do agree Waldig is the man, I found a variable speed fan intercept box years ago. I shared the info in my build thread, should be on here somewhere. I can set my fan to come on any temp I choose. Right now I have it set to start spinning at 190F.

 

Variable speed fan intercept box? This sounds very interesting! Can you tell us more?

 

I agree with the interest. This is something that could be user adjustable with a tune for an American car. Having it set at 190* means you have fan action whenever the thermostats coolant flow is fully activated, I think our T-stats are 187*. It would be great to never go much over that, a nice power maker or a nice way to lose power.

 

I did a google search and found several. Flex-a-lite seems to have a decent one for around $65. can set as low as 160*, very cool, pun intended. I think even the speed can be run from 60% -100%. Sweet