I am looking to replace my current front calipers (SRT6) with the SLK32 AMG 4 piston calipers.

From what I have read so far, it should be a straight bolt on with the stock rotor size (Stop Tech slotted rotors already in hand). However, it is mentioned that washers will be needed to center the caliper over the rotor. So, here come my questions:

1. I assume that if you bolt up the caliper, as is, it is positioned too far out (or closer to the inside of the wheel face). With that, I further assume that the washers go between the hub and the caliper connecting points, effectively positioning it away from the back of the wheel face, centering it over the rotor. I am correct in my understanding?

2. What type of washers are used? Do I need to look for something stainless or aluminum? Does it matter? What have others used?

3. With this setup, will they clear the stock SRT6 wheels? Do I need spacers?

I appreciate any input before I pull the trigger on a used set of hardware.

Thanks,

Shawn

 

I got a set of 4 pot calipers that I'm in the middle of rebuilding for my n/a.

Answer to these question would be helpful as well.

 

I would not use aluminum, if it got salt on it and got wet it would get corroded slowly. Stainless steel would be OK as would regular steel.

 

Alright, did some more digging on the forums and came across this thread: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...e-upgrade.html


This answered all of my questions:


1. I am correct that the washers go between the caliper and hub. Pretty self-explanatory, but wanted to make sure.


2. The above thread mentions the use of washers from Lowes. I went on Amazon and found Mr. Gasket 7/16" head bolt washers. High grade steel with corrosion resistant zinc finish. Seems like a logical choice.


3. Lastly, my SRT6 wheels should fit with this setup: CL500 calipers (cheaper than the C32/SLK32 ones and identical, from what I read and can see, Brembo and all) and SRT6 sized rotors.


Parts have been ordered and I'll check back in once everything is installed. I plan on painting the calipers black and putting silver Brembo decals on. This will then be paired with Stop Tech slotted rotors and stainless brake lines. Hopefully, all goes well!

 

Can you please give the part numbers that are on the calipers? I am wondering if the ones I have are the same as yours. Thanks.
I find part numbers are best given because they stay on the part, a year after the part comes off a car the car model is often forgotten.

 

Thanks chopsSRT6 for doing the research. I have the brembos that require 345mm rotors. Bought a set of Zimmerman. Can't wait to get them on.

 

I know the C32 AMG had 345mm rotors with 4 piston calipers. I was pretty sure stock SLK32 AMG brakes were the same as stock SRT-6 units. Any clarification? Wouldn't want to confuse anyone.

 

SLK32s have 2 piston calipers. Opposing pistons on the rear, and same side pistons on the front.

I am convinced that PADS are the main thing when it comes to brakes. There are huge differences in initial bite, hot friction, cold friction, dust, noise, and rotor friendliness between different pads. My personal favorite is EBC Redstuff, but people have different tastes. I have bought "performance" brake pads that had less friction than the OEM pads. :/

Braided stainless lines made a huge difference on my Supras, but less on my SLK32. The one time I bought slotted rotors I could tell no difference.

 

+ 1 for the EBC redstuff pads !

 

If you have the actual 345mm/ C32/CLK55/SLK55 Front four pot calipers , NO washers are needed. the rear 4 pot/ 330mm SLK55/CLK55/CLK63 rear calipers also will not need any washers, but you will need a longer set of bolts to secure the caliper . washers will be needed for the w220/w215 chassis calipers, for example the S430 RWD Sport use a 330mm rotor , with these calipers you can run the SRT6 Rotor. the 2001/02 S55 have a 345MM rotor, with these use the C32 rotor and washer spaced four pot calipers. the w211 calipers also need washers. the rarest calipers are the C320/SLK350 sport calipers, they both run a 330mm rotor and are direct bolt on with the SRT 330 rotor. Hope this Helps.

 

Hello all.....finally received the calipers (part #20 6(or 8)251 01 (bracket) and 20 7047 04 (caliper)) and did a test fit. Here is what I found out:

1. I will need washers and they go between the caliper and hub/steering knuckle. However, the caliper has to be position further out from the center of the car to get it to center over the rotor. The order of assembly, working from the inside of the car out is: Bolt --> Hub --> Washers --> Caliper. This makes me a little nervous about safety. Anyone currently running with washers have any issues???


2. The head bolt washers (7/16" inside diameter) I bought DID NOT fit around the caliper bracket bolts, so off to Lowes to see what they have.


3. The 330 stock rotor seems to work just fine. The caliper also shows 330, so I am good there.


4. The disappointment: My SRT wheels DID NOT fit. Because the caliper has to spaced further to the outside of the car, it pushes right up against the inside of the wheel....quite a bit. I will need to look at spacers. Any suggestions? I am thinking 10 mm will do the trick (which I will also get for the back to keep the geometry consistent, front to back).


Hoping this helps out others. What I thought would be a cheap upgrade is starting to become expensive.




TLDR: Concerned about using washers. Any negative experience? SRT Wheels do not fit. Recommendations for spacers? Cheap upgrade??? LOL

 

Looks like I am going to roll the dice with Eibach 10mm spacers off of Amazon. I checked the Eibach site and they come with the extended wheel bolts required (and are hub centric, of course). Hoping they fit over the dust cap.


They're coming on Monday (gotta love Prime), so after another test file with a new set of washers, I'll report back.

 

Should've gone with 5mm spacers....

 

I did not think that 5mm would be big enough. Reading through the forums, it seems as if 10 would work without mexi-poke. It pushes the wheel out to exactly flush.


Plus, the 5mm's do not look to be hub centric: PRO-SPACER Kit | Eibach Springs


So far, this is turning out to be an exercise of "trial and error" so, if the 10mm look too big and I have more than enough clearance, then I will return those and get the 5mm's. At least Amazon has a good return policy.

 

I have been running these calipers 3 years with no issues. Just make sure your bolts are long enough. I would also recommend that you switch the piston housings from each others brackets to properly convert them to leading caliper. I have 15mm spacers

 

Where did you get the longer bolts from? I have been scouring the interwebs looking for the right size and it appears that M11x1.5 in any length is impossible to find.


Any help would be appreciated!

 

I forget where I got them but they are fairly common. If you can't get the exact length, get the next size longer and trim them

 

Double post

 

om doing this right now wacher 6,4 mm thik and spacers is needed 5mm but hawent fund anny sulution with centrichhub working

 

Stay with hubcentric spacers and save yourself some wheel balance issues. Look at your front hubs closely and you will see plenty of space behind the hub for longer bolts. The only real danger with longer bolts is in the rear where the e-brake shoes and hardware will get destroyed by longer bolts. Ebay is a good source for longer bolts.