Hi guys,


I just bought my first SRT6 on Monday. It has 66K miles and the previous owner put a Eurocharger stage one performance pack on it with a 185 pulley, ECU and TCU turning. Absolutely love it and am convinced I made the right choice. However today I was out and I was hammering it on the highway getting used to how it drives. I drove about twelve miles and then I noticed that the car was starting to smell warm for lack of a better word, and I thought it might be from the tires but the check engine light had come on, even though the car seemed like it was running fine.


So I drove the car back home slowly, stopped and got a bit to eat and when I started the car back up the light was off. Am I just overheating and do I need a Needswings intercooler, or would a CAI intake solve the problem (I have one in them mail,) or is this something more serious that I need to address?


Thanks,


Dan


05 - Black SRT6 Coupe
05 - Acura RL

 

CEL codes?

Give us something...

 

did the temp gauge show hot?
did u check the water?
is the inter cooler system separated from the radiator system? ( two black valves just in front and below the overflow box.
if you have a 185 pulley and push the car for 15 to 20 minutes with out letting it cool down, it will get hot to the point the supercharger will not come on. because your ecu will turn it off, until the temp of the IAT's go down jim

 

running a 185mm crank pulley, you really really want to get a wideband air fuel ratio gauge on the car as I suspect it is leaning out. an ecu tune alone will not supply enough fuel. send me an email rob@needswings.com and we can go through the "your about to blow your **** up" speech.


btw, congrats on the new ride!

 

Dang, Rob, that speech should become a "sticky" (lmao)!

 

Thanks for all the help guys. Rob, email sent. Max, I wish I could give you the codes but the light is no longer on. AMX, I'm not sure. I actually haven't had time to look at the car in the light yet since I've bought it but I'll check those things out this weekend, and the water right now.


Dan

 

The light does not have to be on to check the codes.
They are still in memory unless you disconnected the battery.
Go to Autozone and have them do a scan.

 

Better yet, buy an inexpensive code reader from Harbor Freight, it will pay for itself and will help you become a better diagnostition.

 

Make sure the fan works/plugged in at the clip just to the right of the radiator. I have at times had ,mine disconnected when I change tunes and will not have the dash light come on for some time depending on the driving I am doing. Where is the needle on the gauge for the coolant temps? Mine runs just above the level mark, a bit lower with winter being here in SW Florida. Buy needswings.com coolant separation kit to isolate the coolant(s) from each other, cheap help there as motors love the cool weather. sweet

 

Thanks guys. My neighbor has a diagnostic tool, I may just let him have at it since he's got a knack for fixing cars. He's got a fully built 1932 bucket with a tuned 283 in it that's absolutely wild. Rear tires are Kim K wide.


Sweet: sorry its taken me so long to get back to you. The fan works and the coolant temps are good but I found a few days ago the coolant light was flickering occasionally. The coolant was slightly low so I put some in, and then today I noticed it was just a smidge below the halfway mark on the tank again. I know that the previous owner put on the Eurocharge stage 1 power pack, which included some sort of cooling package, do I need something beyond that like a killer chiller?


Thanks,


Dan

 

You want to find out where the lost coolant is going. Leaking IC? Head gasket?

 

There hasnt been any smoke coming out of it so I cant imagine its a head gasket though I suppose I could be wrong. It just passed inspection so it would have to be something that was overlooked. Im getting an sl55 fuel pump installed Friday Ill have my guy take a look. Anything I should look out for?

Dan

 

It's the stock intake, if that's what is still installed. Can't push the engine with a 185mm crank pulley and a limited air supply. I've seen the same thing happen with a 65mm SC pulley and tune with no intake upgrade. Cost him a transmission in the process.

 

Why would not having an intake with a 65mm pulley ruin someones transmission.

 

Car kept overheating on a 1,500 mile trip. Transmission suffered the brunt of the heat stress somehow. It had a 65/tune put on before leaving and the car didn't react quite like expected. A couple of dealerships and independent shop visited confirmed the trans overheated and trashed a clutch pack or two. We installed a single CAI after the transmission was replaced and he didn't have any overheating issues on the return trip. Merely basing my response on real world experience.

 

I ordered a dcai from needswings. Should arrive any day but Im not sure where the leak is from. Praying not a head gasket. The oil looks good and there is no smoke or smell.

Dan

 

Check engine light came on. Radiator fan is still. Hope I didnt buy a lemon...

 

Still running a stock intake?

 

You still havent said what the codes are.

 

Got and obd scanner gents and a host of codes.

P0108
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0304

Just bought a new mass air flow sensor. The 300s all seem to be misfires but the engine runs like a juiced thoroughbred. Any thoughts?

Dan