I replaced the stock pulley bearing and supercharger idler pulley bearing about a month ago. When I get on the throttle a bit the BAS/ESP light will come on and stay on until I turn the car off. This light will sometimes just come on while taking off to get on the highway or it will come on while trying to speed up and pass someone. The car seems to lose power or will go in "limp" mode unless I use the autostick to downshift to engage the supercharger. I've searched the forum high and low but haven't came across this particular set of circumstances. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

Gosh, I'm trying to remember all the times mine's been lit. On the dyno, always for instance. After a spin. It could be as simple as a weak alternator believe it or not. My BAS/ESP light came on before the battery light the day my alternator expired. And the car didn't have the voltage to accelerate hard. Then the light.
In reality, I hope someone else has a better idea.

Les

 

I would get this in conjunction with no boost. A dab of dielectric grease on the one by the SC pulley solved both. Sweet

 

Thanks for the reply. Should I take the belt off and pull the bearing and apply the grease to the center of it?

 

Dielectric grease?
On what did you put it?
I am guessing the connector not the bearing.

 

I'm still getting the light and it seems to be some sort of a boost problem. Does anybody else have any suggestions? Also would there be any codes stored? The light does go off every time I turn the car off then on again.

 

You need to make 100% sure the pulley is seated back on correctly and as far back as it will go. I had the exact same problem with mine. Took me a week to figure it out. It was only a few mm's off. Took a big ol plastic mallet to it.

 

Stock pulley Sussudio?

 

Yes stock everything. I even pulled everything off again last night. There might be belt slippage as I'm seeing a black dust under the engine cover, but the belt shows no signs of wearing and is very taut. I'm at a loss at the moment as I've been searching all over the forum for an answer. I've searched boost leak, vacuum leak, belt slippage bad IC pump. Not sure where to start though.

 

I am guessing you have a wheel speed sensor that is giving bad signals to the transmission.
Have you checked for codes?
Codes are stored after the light goes out and remain I think until the problem is solved and is either deleted manually or there have been sufficient automatic checks on the system proving there is no problem after x amount of checks.

 

I have an OBD 2 reader but no codes. I'm thinking I'll need something more professional. A friend of mine has a buddy with something that's able to read Mercedes codes, haven't been able to go over to his place yet. I'm going to try ASAP though.

Reading more posts and it seems my pulley and clutch plate seem to have a wider gap between them, more than normal for sure.

 

That black stuff has to be coming from some where, don't just ignore it, that's not normal. I'm guessing it could come from the belt if the pulleys or pulley is not properly installed and causing a belt misalignment.

 

There is always a little slip as the SC engages and gets up to speed and the result of that slippage is a little powder that gets thrown against the nearest object. Naturally if there is mismatch of the pulley and belt there would be more.

 

If you are spinning any of your wheels while accelerating then the engine seeming to go into "limp mode" is a reaction by the Power Control Module (PCM) from the Controller Anti Lock Brake (CAB). It is doing what it is intended to do when the Acceleration Slip Regulation (ASR) system is active. The CAB is receiving inputs from the Transmission, The wheel speed sensors, the Parking Brake Switch The Stop Lamp Switch and the ESP Off Switch. Check all the wheel speed sensors, your parking handle/switch and try turning your ESP switch off. Assuming your basically going in a straight line, if not then the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) also will play its part.

 

What is your gap? It should be .012" to .016".

Any thing more will stress the springs more and lead to a shorter life eventually. They already get some stress, but with springs more stress is not better.

The black dust could well be metal being rubbed off the clutch and magnetic plates due to the slippage caused by the large gap. RedDog had his clutch plates ruined due to the heat generated by the slippage.

The dog bone springs are quite powerful and if the travel is too much they will fight the magnet a lot more than they should have to. This will make the conditions ideal for slippage to occur.

 

I can see the new Japanese SCIFI movie now ...
"Mighty DogBone vs MegaMagnet"
Coming soon to a theater near you .......

 

Update! So I went at this again this morning as my supercharger pulley was definitely not .012' to .016' it was at about .022'. I pulled the belt off again. Gave the SC pulley a little push and the gap closed considerably. Measured the gap and it was within the spec of what 180 mentioned. Put everything back together, took the car for a very spirited drive on the highway and low and behold she's ALIVE again. No more light coming on, all the power was back. All I can say is thank you fellas for all the help and useful information it's greatly appreciated!!!

 

I always appreciate when members follow up with the solution within their threads.Thank you! I have my BAS/ESP lighting up after about a mile drives distance, no loss of boost, but considering a wheel speed sensor, like 180 mentioned. I'll look into more once out of storage this spring.

I did notice though, this fall before storage, one of the two previous owners at some point had a resistor on the drivers side tail light. I'm guessing an LED upgrade with tail/brake light? Any how, it was cut and the wires were hand twisted, barely holding to together, so I'm wondering it might have generated a systems fault. We'll see.

Thanks again, and I agree, this forum is phenomenal, great advice here!

 

I can think of no reason for this to solve the problem. If all is set up correctly then the magnet would pull the the pulley back as far as the snap ring would allow.
What is " a little push"?

 

"Little push" as in I pushed it as hard as I could towards the clutch plate. It just wasn't seated properly.
I'm curious though as why would the snap ring allow the pulley to retract back to the clutch plate? If that were the case then the bolt would have slack in it no?