I need some suggestions on replacing my SRT supercharger pulley assembly that "grenaded" on me. Took out an oil cooling hose and the aluminum air crossover pipe as well as the plastic engine cover and unsulation on the underside of the hood...close call there. Repairing a hole in the hood would suck. I do not want or need to increase the horsepower so I want to go with stock. None of the local parts houses have a clue. Thanks in advance.

 

Suggestions? I did see the info on the srt6comsite and decided not to mess with mother nature and return it to stock. I was confused on the outcome of the thread where a dogbone part or rivet failed due to friction and heat leading to metal fatigue on the Karmann unit. I also read of a hood repair..ouch..mine only went as deep as the insulation got torn. I'm informed now, thanks to this forum and its knowledgeable members about the shield info. I also copied the info on the MB intercooler replacement, while I'm in there. Assembling the total parts list for this job is not an easy task. BTW, current stealership price for the "electric clutch coupling assembly " as they called it is $ 1735.00. wow!
Update: I found it for close to 1200.00 plus the tensioner under 100.

 

Here's a thought. Go to car-part.com and look for 2005 crossfire wheel.
On the display page, you can see the yards that have an SRT6 wheel, they just might also have a supercharger clutch if you call them ........

Heck, there is a yard in Lady-Lake that might have it .... 352-259-2020

 

You only need the OEM pulley assembly, you can get that used for <$300.
Try an ad in the WTB forum.
What was the brand of pulley that grenaded?

 

.................................................. .................

 

Sounds like you need a new stock SC pulley, along with the air and oil lines. Don't have any idea why you would be looking at an IC replacement. It should be fine considering it's under the supercharger and likely didn't get hurt from your description of the damage. Send me a text so I can give you the number to a junkyard with an SRT in FL.

 

Hi 180, Chuk and Ala_ (sorry I don't know your first names) and thank you for the responses. The Xfire in Lady Lake is a Limited, but thanks anyway, The SC that grenaded as far as I know was original stock. When I typed that I would change out the intercooler, that was a mistake, I meant to type the intercooler aux.water pump. I had read where it is an upgrade and was under 100 bucks and was easy to do. Chuk, I lost my phone and had to replace it, and lost your number as well so I am unable to contact you except here on the forum at present. When the incident occurred, I was steady on cruise control at 65mph when I first noticed the coolant level indicator on and a few miles later the temp went up. I shut it down and let it cool just before it went into the red then drove a mile or two to get to an inhabited portion of the forest where I called a tow truck.
Is it true that NW only sells modified pulleys and not the entire stock assembly? The pulley actually split and rode forward into the airpipe. I would have posted pictures, but someone posted a picture that shows exactly my damage in the past, so I didn't bother. The skattershield should have been a recall part the first year they came out with the xfires IMHO. I will be needing two of those. Wow red dog...the hood too?...dang!

 

Where can we see the picture of the damage like yours? Is it Red Dogs?
Inquiring minds need to know.
Split and rode forward does not sound like an OEM pulley failure if it split around a groove
Is it steel or aluminum?
Pictures would be nice though.

 

Yes, pics please. You can also measure the outside diameter of the grooved hub portion.
Sounds like a 62mm aluminium pulley failure.

 

This car only has 77,000 miles on it, it may have been replaced in the past, I will go see if a magnet will attract to it and I suppose I will have to remove it and look for some numbers to tell for sure. I added pictures to my Rescue SRT folder. I do believe it was Red Dog's pictures that were exactly like my damage.

 

Ok, so, I went out and put a magnet to the split pulley and it was not attracted to the magnet, so I went to the black srt with 140k mi. on it and gave it the magnet test and it too was not attracted. Does this mean that they both have been changed out?, or is the OEM aluminum also? Thanks

 

Was the preferred method of measuring this pulley diameter using some trick with wire laid into the grooves or something like that I may have read in an earlier post on a similar thread?

 

It is just the outside diameter of the grooved portion of the pulley, nothing fancy. The diameter of the smooth portion of the pulley on the right side end of the picture is good
Is this how it broke?

 

FYI EC is now offering 62mm in steel.
New 61.9 mm Supercharger Pulley in Steel Houston - CrossfireMarket

 

Yes, that what she looks like except it broke on a different groove.

 

I saw that, and thank you for the link. This is not one of the vendors that I have read to stay away from is it?

 

I have a stock pulley for sale. 210 648 5779. thanks

 

In post number one you said "I do not want or need to increase the horsepower so I want to go with stock." So unless you have changed your mind why not stick to that statement?
To my mind the components of the OEM pulley are stronger, better engineered and safest to run.
Some of the after market pulleys have been rushed to market with an eye on a quick dollar without adequate testing, suitable materials and the benefit of sound engineering.
A used OEM pulley costs <$300 and the after market ones twice that with the possible costs of expensive repairs when it fails.
To benefit from the after market ones a tune is often required which adds to the cost, bringing the initial cost over the $1,000 figure.
You decision naturally.

 

Thanks for all the offers and suggestions. Yesterday, I obtained an entire supercharger unit for the shelf as well as a stock pulley to install after replacing the bearing in it along with a replacement engine cover. The replacement is stock 74mm and the one that broke at the grooves was 64mm. My magnet test wasn't accurate because the stock pulley is stainless steel not iron. Since the rescue SRT had an aftermarket pulley on it, I now wonder if it had a "tune" as well. I knew it was a little stronger than my black SRT, now I know why. I suppose today I will continue assembling the parts for the repair and look over the threads to order two scattershields as insurance against future grenading. I WANT TO ADD A GREAT BIG THANK YOU TO CHUK_138 FOR HELPING ME OUT WITH THE PARTS AND TO ALL WHO RESPONDED WITH HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS.....peace

 

I am now at the point of trying to identify part numbers for a couple of items to obtain to commence this repair. In the emissions controls group in the service manual, 25-39, displays the aluminum tubing from the air pump as the air pump tube assembly. There are two short sections of hose on both sides that connect the tubing to the solenoids. I am having difficulty finding a part number for that. Also, there are two rubber hoses coming out of the oil water cooler that sits next to where the oil filter is contained. I need the numbers for those two hoses as well. I'll try to find someone to TIG weld the slice in the aluminum air pump tubing where the hose connects, I think its a salvageable part. Thanks in advance.