I picked up my car from having the upper control arms changed on Friday which means the coolant tank has to come out and perhaps the fuse box. On Sunday I drove 100 miles to the track to visit and watch. Arrived and the car wouldn't idle smooth, the windows wouldn't roll down, air stopped working, ESP/BAS and battery lights came on. Turned the car off and it wouldn't restart. Relaxing day at the track ruined. I figured the battery (newish) decided to pass away. After a while I got a jump and hit the road. I got about 10 miles and the car went to idle, no throttle, no electric windows, air shut off, a bunch of lights lit up, etc. After a few minutes on the side of the road a friend happened along and we swapped his Odyssey battery into my car and my full size battery went into his. I made it about 45 minutes and the car crapped out on me. We swapped my full size battery back into my car and his small one into his. This time I drove with the radio off, air off, etc. and make it home on the charge the battery took from my friends .. cough … Mustang. So, it appears one of 2 things has happened. My alternator died or the shop left a connection off or loose. Today I found my multimeter that I haven't used in 10 years and the battery shows 12.6 volts. Started the car and at idle 12.5 volts so no charge is arriving from the alternator. The guidance I need is how to verify, where to connect the meter, without removing the alternator. I hate all things electrical and am ignorant about them as well so be understanding, please. BTW, no trouble codes to read.

Les

 

Connect your colt meter across the battery note voltage, start the car and read the voltage if the alternater is charging the voltage should be about 13.4 or more. good luck.

 

Colt meter measures HORSE power, use a Volt meter, other than that Jay is correct.
You should see 12.2-12.5 off, 13.6 - 14.2 across the battery terminals when running.
From what you have stated a new alternator is in your future.
Make sure you get an SRT6 one, Limited has the 6 groove pulley.
( and make sure you remove the negative battery terminal before replacing it ! )

 

3 Advance stores around San Juan say then have one in stock : ( have them count the pulley grooves )

787-789-4000
787-780-0482
787-283-8100

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/c...99%7CL3*15587#

 

The SRT alternator is a different make than the LTD, one is Bosch (LTD) and the SRT uses a Valeo. It could be just the regulator though.
Make sure that when you exchange the part the correct pulley is on the new one. Some have turned in their old pulley and been stuck with a wrong one. The wiring to the Bosch alternator does not fit the Valeo without some mods to it.
The one mentioned in ala_xfires post is a replacement for the Bosch, not a Valeo.

 

Where can I buy a colt meter I need one, a little humor never hurt anyone.

 

I just can't see myself ponying up for a colt meter.

 

I'll pull it off the car tomorrow and see which one I have.

Les

 

Be sure to have them bench test your old alt before purchasing a new one. That will eliminate any wiring problem that may have occurred if the fuse box was removed.

James

 

You will have the Valeo for sure, alternator is rated at 120 amps as is the Bosch.


As I said before it may be just the regulator, that is the part that unbolts from the back of the alternator.

 

Just FYI, Dave....


My 07 SE's alternator died a week after I got the car. Had a Valeo on it, took the bad one in, got a new Valeo and had to cut some of the plastic around the A+ stud to get the lug to fit.

Two months later, new one quit charging. Took it off, exchanged it for another Valeo - the new one had a different design to the plastic housing around the A+ stud = it fit the lug just fine.

Both had the N/A pulley on them. But there IS some variation in the housing design - was my first one intended for an SRT? Don't know.

 

OK I can see that, but the SRT always uses a connector that is exclusive to the SRT from what I have gathered from previous posts. I guess it can be made to fit the NA and vice versa.
Both the SRT and the NA use alternators that are rated at 120 amp, according to the spec sheets.
The pulleys are of course different.
Valeo and Bosch both make a very wide variety of alternators.

The Valeo units that I assume fit the Crossfire, they fit the SLK320 and SLK32.
You can see they call for different pulleys and plugs.

The Valeo numbers are in the right hand column of the sheet.

 

I removed my alternator today, Valeo of course. Took it with me to Advanced Auto and they had a Carquest part that "fit". Well, the plastic backing is different as has been noted already, and it had the 6 rib pulley. They swapped my pulley onto their alternator and it sits higher. The Valeo has a recess for the raised circle on the back of the 8 rib pulley. The 6 rib pulley is flat and the N/A alternator doesn't have the recess. So, I'd be throwing belts every day if I bought it. I've found several places to purchase a new exact replacement Valeo but shipping ……. (%$*^&^*()!! not until around xmas. ($300 to $350 plus shipping) I'll be calling a couple to price expedited shipping. Advanced claims to sell the original Valeo for $450 plus a core but all their photos show the 6 rib pulley and now I wonder about that recess and need to be sure. Just another Crossfire oddity day. BTW, I'm searching the MB # which is A112 154 02 02 for those of you that are interested. The Valeo # is SQ12B060.

Les

 

Pictures of what I'm talking about. The pulley they had was flat on the bottom and the alternator didn't have the recess. The nut is 24mm for future reference.

Les

BTW, great research onehundred80!

 

I have different numbers for the alternator, 112 154 02 02 and SG12B060.
They are in my post of the Valeo alternators above and the 113 154 02 02 is also in an SLK32 parts listing that I have.

1 Alternator Assy. (includes the pulley)
SLK320 011 154 91 02 $945.00 1.0
SLK32 112 154 02 02 $1,500.00 1.0
Look at those crazy prices, the sheet they came from is years old. It does include the pulley though.

 

In the last picture you posted, post 12, I don't see a 113. Here's a picture of my alternator part number, 2006 SRT-6.

Les

I see my typo now, it's 112 154 02 02 I believe you have a typo too.

 

Yep, 112. There's me saying you have it wrong and I'm making dumb mistakes. All I have to do is copy it down.
That's old age for you, we find fault with the world and then realize we're the dumb asses.

 

Well, I can't leave anything alone so I removed my voltage regulator to get a close look at the brushes and shaft. One brush is broken but it may have happened when I pryed the plastic cap off that covers the brushes. The shaft looks fine to me. Do educated eyes see something I don't?

Les

 

My new alternator FINALLY arrived today. It took a full hour to get it in unfortunately. So hard to see and so little room. But it's in and I'm not bleeding …. much. Now it's showing 14 volts at idle. My old alternator was definitely d e a d. Strange to me that it died with so few miles. (24k more or less) I guess years mean more to certain parts than miles. Happy Holidays!

Les

 

Alright I am in this boat right now. So the Valeo A 1121540202 is the only option? Thanks