Just installed a new 65mm pulley today. Prior to the install, I had the stock pulley and the nw dcai. I went and drove it around after the install and to be honest I don't feel much of a difference between the stock and 65. I don't have it tuned yet, but does a tune really make a huge difference? If I end up getting a tune, will I finally feel the extra power from the pulley?

 

Yes, a tune will make a difference. And if you haven't done already, change out the OEM IC pump with the upgraded #10 Bosch IC pump.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ump-0392022010

 

The tune is the biggest difference. Dropped a half second in the 1/4 after installing it.

 

Ok so the tune really does bring it all together. Also when I installed the 65 (polish pulley) I tried to get the gap as close to the recommended 0.2-0.3mm as I could but I couldn't get any closer than around 0.9mm with the 1 stock shim still on. Should I just take the shim off and see if that gets the gap closer?

 

What actually happens if u don't get that close 0.2-0.3mm gap?

 

Nothing bad. Take off the stock shim and give it a good hard run. Then check it again. Hard run, check again. IMO, a little bit more of a gap is better than too close.

 

I thought too big of a gap caused the springs to wear out prematurely? I feel like I've read too many threads on the shim dilemma lol. I've heard a gazillion different things at this point.

 

I was only talking about a few thousandths here, not millimeters. Keep at it, it will take awhile for it to settle in. Fortunately it's real easy to take on and off, right. But like I said, don't sweat it if it's a little fat.

 

I have the same pulley and i didnt remove any shim's. You dont need to be honest. Anyway you should have notice the car pulling harder.

As others have said a tune will complete it all together. I have pretty much the whole needswings stage 1 and 2 with no tune. I'll get to it one day, ill prolly have buckhead imports dyno tune it since they are in my backyard.

 

it will take the ecu about 25 miles it see the change (added smaller pulley) (added intake) and then you will feel it.also you can disconnect the batt. for a few minutes ,,that will reset it but it will still take about 25 miles to relearn. if not then you are not on the floor with the throttle lol. jim

 

Because of slight manufacturing variables in the pulley(springbars, rivets,etc.), everybody is just a fraction different from one another; Thus, the reason there are several thickness shims to be had......Been there done that.

 

When I had my 65mm pulley installed I had the DCAI also and the pulley with NO tune made a huge difference. I drove back on the interstate nearly at 100 most of the way when safe. It was such a blast. Good luck with the tune and hope you get the results you expected.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't know it took 25 miles or so for the ecu to notice the change. I thought the gains would be instant and yea i haven't went WOT since I put it on. I went 3/4 throttle at one point but it felt like it was pulling just as hard as it always does. I'm waiting till I install the pulley saver kit before I go WOT, since I've read about the belt slipping issues at high rpms and also wanted the gap to set in before really getting into the throttle. I just thought the pulley added a lot of low-mid range power, so was expecting to feel a significant difference without having to really step on the gas.

 

Sweet2002- Gotta love the adrenaline rush when you hit the triple digits. I've never been more than 120 though, either run out of room or get paranoid

 

If the new pulley is as good as the OEM pulley you would only need to set it once to the correct gap. The reason being that there are stops on the pulley and the springs pull the clutch plate back against them every time. If the after market pulley has the gap get less and less after use then the so called springs are not doing there job. In this case the clutch plate could end up rubbing on the SC and squealing and getting hot, this will cause terminal damage to the parts in contact with one another, see Red Dogs problems in an earlier post. $$$$
The shims are needed because of an accumulation of manufacturing tolerances on the pulley and the SC.
The clutch plate must pull back against the stops, otherwise the springs are not really springs and will fail some time in the future, they have already done that on some cars
One pulley supplier says that the adjustment has to be made a few times before it is finally set. I would not use one of these pulleys as the springs will be prone to early failure. The set up should be like the OEM pulley and not in any other way at all.
I said some years ago springs would fail but few listened, we will have more. At least install the scatter shield by Late Model, you may save yourself some money. OEM springs have failed, so the after market ones are bound to fail as well.

 

Look for Tighed1s solution to the slipping problem, his belt wrap solution works.

 

Good to know onehundred80, sounds like the scatter shield is worth the money then.

JEFASOLD- already bought the nw psk. it's currently being shipped.

 

15K on my blue coupe with a 65 and later the 62. 25K miles on the roadster with a 65. Code 3 pullies, and the 62 is Rudy's Karmann pulley. So don't get paranoid over what you just read. 1/8, 1/4 and 1/2 mile events on both cars. Set them up right and they will last. The failures have all seem to be one company, although the builder of the Karmann pulley seemed to let the QC go down hill after Rudy pulled out. If you are afraid of a failure, then leave them stock. 13 second quarter mile isn't all that bad.

 

I hear you doc, just wanted to make sure it was set up properly and I realize that whenever you mod a car, you are taking a risk. Also, installed the nw psk and have drove 50 plus miles since and I definitely feel and enjoy the extra power now, can't wait for the tune! The car is nice in stock form, but I want to get the most out of it without having to do any internal engine work or modding of the fuel system. Still want a car that is pretty reliable as well. So I've gone the 65mm w/ psk, dcai, catch can, and tune route. Don't really plan on doing anything else to it aside from trying 275's on the back if traction becomes an issue and upgrading to the supercooler if heat soak becomes a problem in the virginia summer.