Cooling
Re: Cooling
I'm running 65mm sc pulley w tune, needswing dcai, and plm heatexchanger, I'm considering running the killer chiller unit, does anyone have and advice, is it realible? Does ac unit still work in car? Wouldn't u lose power cause ac is on. I appreciate all the advice thanks
I'm successfully running the KC unit and I'm full bolt on with the 185 crank pulley... no more heat soak to say the least. I have another video after hard drIrving and can still touch the SC, intakes, and manifolds and they are not hot.. install is kinda rough but reward is great. Only thing you suffer is that in-cabin AC temps suffer greatly ..
Last edited by Zoodust; 11-18-2015 at 01:09 AM.
Re: Cooling
- Okay - couldnt help myself - I'll run my mouth....
I think the big gains are in getting the IC down real low in T.
Our IC's dont work when asked to (@ WOT) no matter how big your cooler is.
Others with the KC have disconnected the OEM or Super coolers.
You need to utilise the IC's thermal mass and get it's temp way down before you hit it.
So then when you go WOT - it can give you at least 10-15 seconds of fun before it really starts to heat up.
I like to think of it as head room.
Key is to replace front HX with
a) a KC and
b) as much insulated coolant tank as you can fit there in its place - shielded from the direct ambient air that used to hit the HX. Others have reported almost a Gallon's worth.
Glycol (coolant) reduces the heat capacity (thermal mass) of the water by about 15% - so if you dont want to go the islation kit and reservior - you can counter that by 15% more volume of course...
c) If you ever have your SC/IC out - the potato bake wrap would be highly recommended as well.
Some may laugh at this one.....but a Copper element IC would be a good idea - but the last price I saw was way too expensive. Also, I'm not sure if the coolant system from Mercedes likes copper ions floating around in its coolant. Isolation kit and seperate reservior/fill a certainty in that case.
I think the big gains are in getting the IC down real low in T.
Our IC's dont work when asked to (@ WOT) no matter how big your cooler is.
Others with the KC have disconnected the OEM or Super coolers.
You need to utilise the IC's thermal mass and get it's temp way down before you hit it.
So then when you go WOT - it can give you at least 10-15 seconds of fun before it really starts to heat up.
I like to think of it as head room.
Key is to replace front HX with
a) a KC and
b) as much insulated coolant tank as you can fit there in its place - shielded from the direct ambient air that used to hit the HX. Others have reported almost a Gallon's worth.
Glycol (coolant) reduces the heat capacity (thermal mass) of the water by about 15% - so if you dont want to go the islation kit and reservior - you can counter that by 15% more volume of course...
c) If you ever have your SC/IC out - the potato bake wrap would be highly recommended as well.
Some may laugh at this one.....but a Copper element IC would be a good idea - but the last price I saw was way too expensive. Also, I'm not sure if the coolant system from Mercedes likes copper ions floating around in its coolant. Isolation kit and seperate reservior/fill a certainty in that case.
Re: Cooling
LOL my kc has been working for over 2 years now. 3 gal tank in place of batt. 46* to 50* before burn out ,, 60 to 66* at launch 117 to 129 at end of 1/4 mile Oh! ambient temp 92 Florida degrees, on highway the temp equals the mph 80mph temp 80 up to 97 then it goes up, ,,btw this is the second time i have posted this information, there are NO heat exchangers on my car.jim
Street Racing Made Safe 40 Mph Roll At Pnir 11-2-13 Photo by amx1397 | Photobucket
and these. HDV_0050_zpse1d82dd8.mp4 Video by amx1397 | Photobucket
Street Racing Made Safe 40 Mph Roll At Pnir 11-2-13 Photo by amx1397 | Photobucket
and these. HDV_0050_zpse1d82dd8.mp4 Video by amx1397 | Photobucket
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