I am looking to do additional mods. I have the NW DCAI, Euro. 65mm pulley and tune.
Needswings has a ported and polished "Y" that directs the compressed air to the intake manifolds. Does anyone have these mods, the "Y" and their tweaked intakes that increase flow from 260cfm to 330cfm each? It would seem fine to increase boost but that air has to move with little restriction to fill the cylinders to the max. It is even possible the amount of boost would drop with less restriction(that thought is from my turbocharged car mentality).
Then NW also offers a downpipe that deletes the 4 cats. I am uncomfortable doing away with the cats. I do have a set of PYPES cats for forced induction motors I could substitute. Having a way to change from cats to no cats would be the way to go. I have read that this cat delete only yelded 15hp, not sure if that was whp or not, likely it was or how else could it be measured?
Last would be another risky mod, a larger crank pulley. Now the SC roller spin at 14,784rpm's. The smallest crank pulley that is larger than stock is a 178mm. With my 65mm SC pulley the revs jump to 16,978rpm's which seems would take the SC out of it's efficiency range. Another option would be to have the TCU reprogrammed to have the tranny shift the gears at 6500rpm, that would spin the SC at 15,500rpm which would seem ideal and since these SC motors make peak power at redline that power is in a sense useless. having high HP while getting to redline is what we want. If after the shift the motor was spinning 300+rpm more than present should cut et's safely, that is if these motors are capable of 6500rpm.
Of the 3 mods I listed I think the increased intake flow might yield the best results but finding any independent data is impossible, in fact finding someone who has done this mod has so far found nobody!
Suggestions?
The last thing I may do is add a set of TOYO PROXES R888's. They are a road race tire that is DOT certified. Many of the Mustang Cobra guys run them and those motors make a LOT of power. Thanks, mark

 

Im in the works of extensive winter mods. The idler pulley i believe (not 100% sure) is the pulley working the most when changing pulley size (SC and/or crank) NW sells just the pulley saver kit if u do not wish to put a bigger crank pulley on. Unfortunately, you ate in the same boat i am in with modding-u are past the easy part of just bolting things on. From this point on, ur mods are gonna need supporting mods. Keep in mind that with all the increases in cfms, not only is a tune adjustment in order, but u also need to upgrade to an SL55 fuel pump, high flow fuel filter without internal regulator, and add an external regulator. Remember when i said mods will depend on other mods? Well none of the ones i just mentioned are any good without upgrading ur injectors. My "y-pipe" and "SC snout" are with Rob at NW as we speak to get the porting/coating done. Tweaked manis are next. (Although id love to do his aluminum ones, but i have to drive in my financial lane lol) I also ported out my intake runners for better atomization. I also just did the TCU tune and all new gaskets just came in. Unfortunately, im not able to test out all my new mods until spring comes as my SC (and valve covers) are sitting on my dining room table. (we eat on the couch like 95% of america lol) yes, u have to remove the supercharger and intercooler just to remove the SC snout. 178PSK and bigger injectors are also on my winter list. If all plays in my favor, id like to trailer my 6 to EC and get an actual dyno tune done by jerry himself to reap all potential of my modding. A can tune is only gonna give u so much and is only so accurate as real time numbers vary from car to car despite having same mods. Happy modding!

 

From this point on, ur mods are gonna need supporting mods. Keep in mind that with all the increases in cfms, not only is a tune adjustment in order, but u also need to upgrade to an SL55 fuel pump, high flow fuel filter without internal regulator, and add an external regulator. Remember when i said mods will depend on other mods? Well none of the ones i just mentioned are any good without upgrading ur injectors. llol[/QUOTE]

Who told you that? If you read the threads, you would have noticed that some of us with these mods have not needed to go to bigger injectors.

 

Who told you that? If you read the threads, you would have noticed that some of us with these mods have not needed to go to bigger injectors.[/QUOTE]
I thought i remembered someone mentioning to me that oem injectors basically defeated the purpose of upgrading the fuel pump? I know that just upgrading injectors defeats the purpose without upgrading fuel system but maybe i misunderstood about needing to upgrading injectors when upgrading pump/filter.

 

With major increases in airflow, how are u guys preventing from running very lean at WOT?

 

After installing the tweaked manifolds, I had Jerry dynotune the car to ensure proper A/F Ratio across the rpm range. My fuel system is now officially maxed out. Fortunately I'm totally satisfied with with the power now so I won't need to mess with injectors et al.

 

from what I understand AFR can be optimized one of two ways, both require larger fuel pump and high flow fuel filter and external adjustable fuel regulator and need to be datalogged by either zeitronix or dyno.


#1. Stock injectors, mechanically increase fuel with needswings system. 1 to 1 increase fuel pressure with every additional psi past OEM 14 psi. This increases fuel volume and pressure keeps the IDC at lower cycles due to having more volume at higher pressure to handle the increased boost.


#2. 550cc injectors, tune the ECU to scale the injectors back at lower RPM (so you don't run rich at low RPM but cutting IDC and pulse width), and program for AFR through RPM range to maintain AFR.


Boostmonkey has a great write up on his fuel system with custom fuel rail and larger fuel feed lines. He installed an adjustable regulator at the end of the fuel rail and a return back into the tank. If I remember correctly he has larger injectors.

 

I did not think the few mods I have and am considering would require more fuel.
1. Who dyno tunes Mercedes?
2. I might just consider a Kenne-Bell boost-a-pump for additional fuel. 1lb. increase for each lb. of additional boost. It is the dyno tune that has me confused. Did Jerry do the tune over your laptop or work with the owner/operator of the dyno? What AFR's are considered good for these motors, 11.3-11.5:1?

 

I am running a stacked setup with SL55 pump, free flow filter and adjustable regulator set at 66 psi with a tune from Inmotion (Rob's recommendation). I talked to them about a retune and was told within the limits of my system, the ECU would make the necessary adjustments. I have a Zeitronic AFR meter and datalog setup and unless I do anything more, which I doubt, I am OK. I do have NW DCAI and manifolds also. I have a local Chrysler dealer that has a dyno ($81 for 3 pulls) and they actually know something about the Crossfire.

 

OEM 450cc injectors? What AFR do you see at the top of 3rd on a WOT pull?

 

I have a 62 sc pulley, NWDCAI, SL55 fuel pump, OEM filter and regulator (still haven't gotten around to install Rob's boost regulated system that I have sitting here), EC boxed tune for the two mods, NW super cooler, Rudy's IC, OEM Y, OEM manifolds, boost sensor at the upper manifold reads max 22 psi, and run really lean at the top of 2nd and mid to top of 3rd gear pulls at the drag with AFR up to mid 13's.

 

Mid 11's. Without the adj. regulator, I was in mid to upper 13's.

 

That Chrysler dealer is one rare bird!

 

There's no need for fuel upgrades unless you go to a 62mm SC pulley(no one makes them anymore) or stack pulleys. I'm running on stock injectors and fuel pump and have had no issues with all the mods I have. I will say that your altitude might change this, as I'm at sea level.

 

Ok. I'll gladly say i stand corrected. I guess i misunderstood what i read or was mislead. Either way i plan on doing the 550cc injectors. Max fuel+max air= max hp!

 

If you aren't running lean, there's no point.

 

Im not running anything right now cuz shes apart for the winter lol. I plan on doing EVERY mod other than bigger mani's. Only gonna do the tweaked mani's. Including stacked pulleys. Just got my ypipe and SC inlet ported and coated and i polished my intake runners. I would assume 550's are needed after the extent of those mods. If not, why was it ever a topic of discussion or available for us at NW's? No mod is every really needed (aside from supporting mods obv). They may not be needed but that doesnt mean there are no benefits from them either.

 

Gonna be too expensive to trailer her to Eurocharge even tho i wouldnt have to pay for a trailer or truck. So after all my mods ate complete this winter, im gonna have Jerry make me a ECU adjustment tune just to get it driveable, and cruise to Texas to get her dyno'd for full potential of my mods.

 

You aren't increasing boost with any of the mentioned mods you listed, just flowing a bit more air. These engines run pretty rich stock so the need for more fuel is only necessary when you start getting to the 20 psi range. Depending on your altitude, you could just be spending extra cash.

 

I am already running the 65mm pulley. Gonna stack it with either the 178 or 181. Leaning more towards the 178. From wut ive read, it seems more user friendly.