Okay so I bought my car about two months ago and it has been nothing but problems. At first my car would not stop stalling and running funny (gas pedal not working) going into limp mod.e so I started by replacing the crankshaft sensor. Everything was well for about two weeks car ran fine. One day I was driving and the car started doing the exact same thing but only once it got hot it would run fine cold (still no code). So I replaced the camshaft sensor thinking it may be the problem. started up ran fine for a couple days. Then today I started my car up started to drive and the tow away alarm lights were flashing but it was still running I stopped the car shut it off and ever since on a start it just idles very rough and seems to be in limp mode again the gas pedal won't work.
Getting very frustrated if anyone could please help I am seriously considerig selling the car if I can not figure it out but I don't want to.

A little more info I did not use Bosch sensors when replacing the CPS or camshaft sensors I know I should have. Almost thought maybe that may have been why it only ran good for a couple of days but I can't imagine the sensors failing that quickly.
Was going to try and get the car over to Rob at needswings maybe he would be able to help.

 

Gee . . . I think you may have discovered the reason for your continuing problems . . . Start over again and use the recommended parts.

 

You think that is really the only reason it isn't running right? I would hate to go buy all the parts again And it not fix the issue. Cause each time it has had different symptoms.

 

I can't really diagnose your current issue from here but I can suggest the following . . .

This forum has a wealth of information covering every possible issue with / modification for / how to do this and that with photos / regarding the Chrysler Crossfire. Nearly every post I have ever read about replacing the CPS always advises to only replace with a genuine Bosch part. I suspect you wasted your money and your time trying to save a few bucks on some aftermarket part. That's my opinion backed up by many many posts here on the forum. My advice is learn here first and then do . . .

Please let us know how you make out . . .

 

when i bought mine it was a never ending issue and I used all the right parts. I guess I was unlucky, but like Red Dog said the wealth of knowledge here will save u a lot of money.

I went from a bad CPS, to bad TCU and electrical plate, alternator, IC pump, Water pump, bad intercooler, etc

Best of luck.

 

BTW, always use a Bosh CPS!

 

Searching forums is like playing Jeopardy. If you know the answer, the question is easy.
Picture this:
Problem: Engine runs rough.
Search "Engine runs rough." First hit is roadster top problem. Second is motor mounts. Third
srt for sale; 4- mass airflow sensor; 5 - code for lean mixture 5
Engine runs poorly
1- Racing
2- RCM
3-Stereo Reception
4 intake options
5- Mass air flow
Engine runs bad
1-srt for sale
2-air pump noise
3 - sage advice
4-blew engine
5-RCM
Motor runs rough
1- V8 for sale
2- Top issue
3-v8 6sp
4- meth injection
5 lambo wheels

 

You are using the wrong search !
Use the google search box at the top of the screen.

 

You are correct!!!

 

That's the story of my life.

 

Like all purebreds and Morris the cat, our cars are finicky. Very sensitive to parts replacement, only use OEM, also extremely sensitive to battery going bad. As stated before, use the search, it will show you the light.

 

Being an SRT, there are more issues that can cause this than in the N/A. At the mileage of your car, a new Intercooler Pump may be in order. (Not a hard fix, and the pumps are not expensive at all.)

Given this "runs ok cold" stuff, I'd say I/C pump or Crank Sensor. Often, the RIGHT sensor is less money than the "cheap" ones...
https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-82.html How does $45 grab ya?

This thing about the tow alarm light flashing has me wondering - how old is the battery? These cars are very fussy, at times, about the battery. (And PLEASE don't tell me it "tests fine" - I didn't ask if it 'tests fine', I asked how old it is. The issue is not starting amperage, but filtering ability - again, the car is not tolerant of voltage fluctuations or spikes - and it is the battery's job to filter them out.)

 

Just a thought but if the battery has good voltage and you thing there is a spike filtering issue then why not just disconnect the alternator then try it. Should be able to run on a freshly charged battery for a while and if there is a spike issue then it should run fine just on the battery.


Note I have seen bad battery connections cause a 200v spike with a 10DN before.

 

Okay I appreciate all the comments but without everyones bias opinion about the aftermarket parts not being Bosch does anyone have a suggestion as to what could be wrong. Yea I know I should have got Bosch parts but due to this being my daily driver I did not have time to wait around for the parts to come in the mail.

 

I have seen the gas pedal not working problem be as simple as a defective sprint booster.
This is not a factory part. It is a part that many install to reduce throttle lag.
See if to have one. It would be plugged right into the gas pedal then the other end plugged into the factory wire.
Search sprintbooster install .
Worth looking. If you have one try removing it and plugging pedal back in.

 

I'm sorry but, aren't you waiting around now or are you driving it. I do believe the Bosch parts are not so much an opinion but based on fact. As a suggestion of what could be wrong, I believe that was covered by Bosch vs aftermarket.

 

Okay I will check for sprint booster but I do believe this car is stock. When I mean gas pedal not working the car starts to idle very rough and almost stall out and when I hit the gas pedal it does nothing as if it's in limp mode. Yes I am waiting around now I cannot drive it due to this problem luckily I have another vehicle I can drive for about another week. So are you suggesting I buy a new CPS and camshaft sensor both Bosch products you think that is going to correct the issue? Or does anyone have any other suggestion as to why my car is running like this. It only had a Code one time and I tried to pull the code off of it a couple hours later and the check engine light never came back up.

 

Search forum for the Bosch p/n for the crankshaft sensor and go by local M/B dealer to get one. Don't worry about the camshaft one for now. If they are so smug as to ask what car it's being used in, just say 2004 SLK320. Quickest way I know how to get one. Also, you didn't give an answer about your battery. If you still have the white Varta, replace it immediately. Like it's been stated, it doesn't matter if it's "Reading Fine". It's a 9 yr old battery. My wing started rising upon car start, but battery was "fine". One week later and doornail dead.

 

Sounds to me like maybe more than one problem. The battery could be putting out noisy voltage( tow light).
Check the vac hoses around the MAF and Throttle Body. Does the car have a catch Can? make sure it is drained and vac lines are connected and not leaking. Look for a bad Sprint Booster too!
My best guess!

 

Wow....why try to look at other problems when the symptoms are that of a bad CPS. The problem with aftermarket parts are most aren't up to factory specs. Other makes and models have CPS problems as well. Just put one in my Tahoe although a '99, they will finally wear out. Bosch parts work in these cars, other do not. Some one might get lucky, and an aftermarket may work, but not often, and not worth the risk. CPS problems can be hard starting, rough idle, making it seem the throttle isn't responding. Dying for no reason. If the throttle truly isn't working, then it could be the throttle position sensor. But it ran for a few weeks, so I doubt that to be an issue. Believe me, there are days I wish for a car without any sensors or fuel injection, or anything other than old fashion mechanical. Then, I remember, replacing points, accelerator pumps, plugs, coils, voltage regulators, and such, so as they say, **** happens.....