code 3 stacked
Re: code 3 stacked
As long as your Air/Fuel is fine and you're running 93 octane, I think you should be good to go. I went with the SL55 pump and injectors to solve my lean condition.
Here's my story: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ved-again.html
Last edited by grip grip; 12-11-2013 at 11:26 AM.
EDITED:
As long as your Air/Fuel is fine and you're running 93 octane, I think you should be good to go. I went with the SL55 pump and injectors to solve my lean condition.
Here's my story: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ved-again.html
As long as your Air/Fuel is fine and you're running 93 octane, I think you should be good to go. I went with the SL55 pump and injectors to solve my lean condition.
Here's my story: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ved-again.html
Last edited by austinbarrylee; 12-11-2013 at 12:18 PM.
Re: code 3 stacked
Re: code 3 stacked
After reading that, I'm convinced you need some rest.
Last edited by grip grip; 12-11-2013 at 12:31 PM.
Ok I am ignorant to this supercharger situation. According to you, in order to double stack correctly with Code 3 and 178mm. I need to buy a new fuel pump and injections. Which I stated the prices. If I take off the Code 3 and just put 178mm system from Needswings it cost a little more. When double stacking don't I need to buy 178mm parts.
Re: code 3 stacked
Ok I am ignorant to this supercharger situation. According to you, in order to double stack correctly with Code 3 and 178mm. I need to buy a new fuel pump and injections. Which I stated the prices. If I take off the Code 3 and just put 178mm system from Needswings it cost a little more. When double stacking don't I need to buy 178mm parts.
There isn't a huge difference between a fully modded car like mine and a 65mm car on the street. I think the difference only shows in the time-slips from the track.
If you want low 11's, just add nitrous.
I suggest more research before you start spending your hard-earned money on what may not make any discernible difference.
I go overboard, since I enjoy working on the car myself, and tweaking it through testing and experimentation. Unless you really want to start spending time under the hood trouble-shooting issues, I would think twice before going all out on it.
Re: code 3 stacked
Ok I am ignorant to this supercharger situation. According to you, in order to double stack correctly with Code 3 and 178mm. I need to buy a new fuel pump and injections. Which I stated the prices. If I take off the Code 3 and just put 178mm system from Needswings it cost a little more. When double stacking don't I need to buy 178mm parts.
I put in blue in the chart below what you're thinking of doing . . . you say you have the 178mm crank pulley and want to go stacked by installing a 65mm Code 3 supercharger pulley . . . That's pretty aggressive . . . You would definitely need the SL55 fuel pump, the adjustable fuel pressure regulator and possibly the larger fuel injectors. I'm not an expert in this area . . . I know just enough to be dangerous. I would strongly suggest, however, that when getting to that level of engine mods you'll need to be able to monitor your AFR (among other engine stats) to be sure you don't run lean and damage your engine.
It took me a while to find this chart . . .
It's in post #268 by Billy22Bob in this thread https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...lable-now.html
-----pulleys----------rwhp-----air intake-----fuel-------fuel-----------fuel --------Cooling required---MAP*
------------------------------------cfm--------g/sec----cc/inj/min----lb/inj/min-----kBTU/hr----kW----- psi
Stock---74/155-------290---------649--------30.4--------476---------45.3--------------37------11--- 13.4
DCAI ---74/155-------297---------665--------31.2--------488--------46.5---------------42------12--- 14.1
ECStock-65/155------316---------734--------34.5--------539---------51.3--------------61------18--- 17.1
62Stock-62/155------326---------768--------36.1--------564---------53.7--------------71------21--- 18.5
62DCAI-62/155-------337---------791--------37.2--------581---------55.3--------------78------23--- 19.5
65DCAI-ASP-65/178-359---------866--------40.7--------635---------60.5-------------102------30--- 22.7-----STACKED! 328kW (437hp) Crank - sub 11 sec 1/4mile car
62DCAI-ASP-62/185-371---------907--------42.6--------665---------63.4-------------116------34----24.5-----STACKED..339kW (452hp) Crank - Missile Status
Anyone more knowledgeable than I (that is likely almost everyone) should please chime in here . . .
Last edited by RED DOG; 12-11-2013 at 01:33 PM.
Re: code 3 stacked
Yeah, I'm with Grip on this one. I am not sure why you think you need to stack. I am a supercharger pulley guy. I don't care for crank pulleys. I would run the code 3, cold air intake, and a tune for now. Now if you are going with some modified manifolds, then you might look at more boost, more fuel. But, I would try the simple set up 1st, and go from there. That is guaranteed low 12's.... 11's with spray...maybe. But to be consistent you would definitely have to look at manifolds, maybe injectors, and certainly a 55 pump. I am not sure if you meant you already have the 55 pump/ regulator kit or not, but once you get into more boost, like a 62mm supercharger pulley or a 185 crank pulley, you will need more fuel for sure, and probably more injector as well. A lot of ways to get there. Each have taken their own path. I'm just a s/c pulley guy, others have their ways...good luck...happy modding... I truck for a seed company, so we get down your way a lot....
If I were you, I'd just stick with the proven three (Code 3, NW intake, and a tune). Those mods with drag radials will get you into the 11's at the track and make for one hell of a daily driver that won't give you problems.
There isn't a huge difference between a fully modded car like mine and a 65mm car on the street. I think the difference only shows in the time-slips from the track.
If you want low 11's, just add nitrous.
I suggest more research before you start spending your hard-earned money on what may not make any discernible difference.
I go overboard, since I enjoy working on the car myself, and tweaking it through testing and experimentation. Unless you really want to start spending time under the hood trouble-shooting issues, I would think twice before going all out on it.
There isn't a huge difference between a fully modded car like mine and a 65mm car on the street. I think the difference only shows in the time-slips from the track.
If you want low 11's, just add nitrous.
I suggest more research before you start spending your hard-earned money on what may not make any discernible difference.
I go overboard, since I enjoy working on the car myself, and tweaking it through testing and experimentation. Unless you really want to start spending time under the hood trouble-shooting issues, I would think twice before going all out on it.