code 3 stacked
Re: code 3 stacked
I'm back...had to go get brake parts for the Tahoe...I just caught up on all the reading. Here's what I would do depending on your budget and where you are now. Intake manifolds, is a yes, the phenolic spaces are just spacers that set the intake manifolds up a little higher to gain volume. They aren't needed and just something else waiting to be a boost leak. I wouldn't use those. If you are buying Robs big intakes, you don't need them anyway, or even if you are going with the modified stock manis like I am running, I still wouldn't use them. PSK, is a yes. Sprint booster just gets rid of the lag in the throttle, yes, but that is a personal thing, no HP involved here. The 55 pump is needed for the higher boost pulleys like the 61mm sold by Eurocharged or 62 Karmann pulley sold on here recently. A 185 crank would need the pump as well. So, yes I would run it whether you need it or not at this stage. If the manis don't get you the kick you want, then my next suggestion is sell the 65mm pulley and go to the 61 or 62. Just my .02...
OH, and a tune will be needed again for those manis... Eurocharged has done both my cars over the internet. I checked the tune at the track last spring while running the half mile event. I couldn't have been closer than if done on a dyno. You just need to let them know exactly what you are running. good luck
OH, and a tune will be needed again for those manis... Eurocharged has done both my cars over the internet. I checked the tune at the track last spring while running the half mile event. I couldn't have been closer than if done on a dyno. You just need to let them know exactly what you are running. good luck
Last edited by oledoc2u; 12-11-2013 at 03:42 PM.
Re: code 3 stacked
I believe the surge Steve and I were experiencing was a result of detonation. At part throttle "closed-loop" the engine would see over 15psi and over 20 degrees of timing with an Air/Fuel of 14.7. That's way too little fuel for those conditions.
I think stacked is a great mod if you're determined to see how fast you can go in the 1/4 without spray, but it's a PITA when the surge hits and your face almost goes through the windshield. I'm sure this can be remedied by retarding the timing, but at that point your decreasing the power when the objective is to increase it.
I think stacked is a great mod if you're determined to see how fast you can go in the 1/4 without spray, but it's a PITA when the surge hits and your face almost goes through the windshield. I'm sure this can be remedied by retarding the timing, but at that point your decreasing the power when the objective is to increase it.
To the OP, same recommendation as others. Stick with the Code3 pulley. If you have some extra $$, get an LSD.
Re: code 3 stacked
That can mean a lien condition....I'd be careful with that. The cool temps give this car some good air, and not always enough fuel to go with it. You might think about an upgrade in fuel delivery....
I'm back...had to go get brake parts for the Tahoe...I just caught up on all the reading. Here's what I would do depending on your budget and where you are now. Intake manifolds, is a yes, the phenolic spaces are just spacers that set the intake manifolds up a little higher to gain volume. They aren't needed and just something else waiting to be a boost leak. I wouldn't use those. If you are buying Robs big intakes, you don't need them anyway, or even if you are going with the modified stock manis like I am running, I still wouldn't use them. PSK, is a yes. Sprint booster just gets rid of the lag in the throttle, yes, but that is a personal thing, no HP involved here. The 55 pump is needed for the higher boost pulleys like the 61mm sold by Eurocharged or 62 Karmann pulley sold on here recently. A 185 crank would need the pump as well. So, yes I would run it whether you need it or not at this stage. If the manis don't get you the kick you want, then my next suggestion is sell the 65mm pulley and go to the 61 or 62. Just my .02...
OH, and a tune will be needed again for those manis... Eurocharged has done both my cars over the internet. I checked the tune at the track last spring while running the half mile event. I couldn't have been closer than if done on a dyno. You just need to let them know exactly what you are running. good luck
OH, and a tune will be needed again for those manis... Eurocharged has done both my cars over the internet. I checked the tune at the track last spring while running the half mile event. I couldn't have been closer than if done on a dyno. You just need to let them know exactly what you are running. good luck
Re: code 3 stacked
I started experiencing the same kind of surge lately when it got colder. Similar to the old EC tune when shifting from 3rd to 4th. Like as if I let the gas pedal go.
To the OP, same recommendation as others. Stick with the Code3 pulley. If you have some extra $$, get an LSD.
To the OP, same recommendation as others. Stick with the Code3 pulley. If you have some extra $$, get an LSD.
I was referring to closed loop, so you could say it was due to a "Lean" condition since the car has a 14.7 Air/Fuel ratio at the time with big boost and lots of timing. The car throws even more timing at in cold weather due to the low air temps.
Chris (LateModel21) is experiencing the same surge with just a 62mm pulley, but he only gets 91 octane out west. I believe he said it does if more frequently when the car is cool (recently started). That also makes me think it's detonation, since the car has the coolest air temps at start-up and therefore sees the most aggressive timing.
Lots of timing, lots of boost, and low octane fuel in closed-loop seems to cause the windshield face-plant. I guess it's even worse with 91 octane, since it has a lower flashpoint than 93.
Last edited by grip grip; 12-11-2013 at 06:11 PM.
Re: code 3 stacked
I havent read anyone mentioning SUPERCOOLER........
You see the problem is the SC hits the wall in terms of heat (adiabatic) efficiency above 20psi and starts generating heat instead of density - Both = pressure.
You can fall into a false sense of power seeing your boost gauge hitting 22psi. Hey it might even hit 23+psi on a hot dry day - its part falacy = heat.
You need a larger Cooler behind your bumper and I'm not sold but most claim the CM30 Johnson or its bigger brother the CM90 are touted as saviours. Again the rad isolation kit is much favoured, but I'm not sold on this either.
There is a "Killer Chiller" (KC) on the market for ~$600+install which taps into your Aircon system. Steve (32Krazy) installed it, but Waldig quite rightly pointed out that your AC compressor system can only suck 5kW (140kBtu/hr) on a good day and we're chasing double to tripple that for density.
In addition to this extra cooling is the front cooler - at the end of the day you gotta dissipate all of that heat. I'm not sure if people are seeing the supercoolers as the limiting step at the moment or not. If you're <+10F ambient ex the cooler, then probably not.
There is boost monkey's trunk ice tank solution - but that's for track days.
We're yet to see a good manifold tank design (aka the SLR style). These sit to the side of your intake plenums and feed them from the side rather than the end, but will most likely require a bonnet scoop as they cut off the normal air intake routes. RobertAMG and others have attempted some (search).
I see these coupled with the KC as the next step for the performance junkies (>450bhp) and as soon as someone releases a design with intakes (if ever, and they wont be cheap) - it will not so much get us into the >22psi territory - but rather get our heat down and our density up.and even though we're still seeing a boost gauge at 22psi you should feel the gains.
At the end of the day it'll all be evident by lower IAT's, less retard and all for your personal butt dyno viewing pleasure .
You see the problem is the SC hits the wall in terms of heat (adiabatic) efficiency above 20psi and starts generating heat instead of density - Both = pressure.
You can fall into a false sense of power seeing your boost gauge hitting 22psi. Hey it might even hit 23+psi on a hot dry day - its part falacy = heat.
You need a larger Cooler behind your bumper and I'm not sold but most claim the CM30 Johnson or its bigger brother the CM90 are touted as saviours. Again the rad isolation kit is much favoured, but I'm not sold on this either.
There is a "Killer Chiller" (KC) on the market for ~$600+install which taps into your Aircon system. Steve (32Krazy) installed it, but Waldig quite rightly pointed out that your AC compressor system can only suck 5kW (140kBtu/hr) on a good day and we're chasing double to tripple that for density.
In addition to this extra cooling is the front cooler - at the end of the day you gotta dissipate all of that heat. I'm not sure if people are seeing the supercoolers as the limiting step at the moment or not. If you're <+10F ambient ex the cooler, then probably not.
There is boost monkey's trunk ice tank solution - but that's for track days.
We're yet to see a good manifold tank design (aka the SLR style). These sit to the side of your intake plenums and feed them from the side rather than the end, but will most likely require a bonnet scoop as they cut off the normal air intake routes. RobertAMG and others have attempted some (search).
I see these coupled with the KC as the next step for the performance junkies (>450bhp) and as soon as someone releases a design with intakes (if ever, and they wont be cheap) - it will not so much get us into the >22psi territory - but rather get our heat down and our density up.and even though we're still seeing a boost gauge at 22psi you should feel the gains.
At the end of the day it'll all be evident by lower IAT's, less retard and all for your personal butt dyno viewing pleasure .
Re: code 3 stacked
I havent read anyone mentioning SUPERCOOLER........
You see the problem is the SC hits the wall in terms of heat (adiabatic) efficiency above 20psi and starts generating heat instead of density - Both = pressure.
You can fall into a false sense of power seeing your boost gauge hitting 22psi. Hey it might even hit 23+psi on a hot dry day - its part falacy = heat.
You need a larger Cooler behind your bumper and I'm not sold but most claim the CM30 Johnson or its bigger brother the CM90 are touted as saviours. Again the rad isolation kit is much favoured, but I'm not sold on this either.
There is a "Killer Chiller" (KC) on the market for ~$600+install which taps into your Aircon system. Steve (32Krazy) installed it, but Waldig quite rightly pointed out that your AC compressor system can only suck 5kW (140kBtu/hr) on a good day and we're chasing double to tripple that for density.
In addition to this extra cooling is the front cooler - at the end of the day you gotta dissipate all of that heat. I'm not sure if people are seeing the supercoolers as the limiting step at the moment or not. If you're <+10F ambient ex the cooler, then probably not.
There is boost monkey's trunk ice tank solution - but that's for track days.
We're yet to see a good manifold tank design (aka the SLR style). These sit to the side of your intake plenums and feed them from the side rather than the end, but will most likely require a bonnet scoop as they cut off the normal air intake routes. RobertAMG and others have attempted some (search).
I see these coupled with the KC as the next step for the performance junkies (>450bhp) and as soon as someone releases a design with intakes (if ever, and they wont be cheap) - it will not so much get us into the >22psi territory - but rather get our heat down and our density up.and even though we're still seeing a boost gauge at 22psi you should feel the gains.
At the end of the day it'll all be evident by lower IAT's, less retard and all for your personal butt dyno viewing pleasure .
You see the problem is the SC hits the wall in terms of heat (adiabatic) efficiency above 20psi and starts generating heat instead of density - Both = pressure.
You can fall into a false sense of power seeing your boost gauge hitting 22psi. Hey it might even hit 23+psi on a hot dry day - its part falacy = heat.
You need a larger Cooler behind your bumper and I'm not sold but most claim the CM30 Johnson or its bigger brother the CM90 are touted as saviours. Again the rad isolation kit is much favoured, but I'm not sold on this either.
There is a "Killer Chiller" (KC) on the market for ~$600+install which taps into your Aircon system. Steve (32Krazy) installed it, but Waldig quite rightly pointed out that your AC compressor system can only suck 5kW (140kBtu/hr) on a good day and we're chasing double to tripple that for density.
In addition to this extra cooling is the front cooler - at the end of the day you gotta dissipate all of that heat. I'm not sure if people are seeing the supercoolers as the limiting step at the moment or not. If you're <+10F ambient ex the cooler, then probably not.
There is boost monkey's trunk ice tank solution - but that's for track days.
We're yet to see a good manifold tank design (aka the SLR style). These sit to the side of your intake plenums and feed them from the side rather than the end, but will most likely require a bonnet scoop as they cut off the normal air intake routes. RobertAMG and others have attempted some (search).
I see these coupled with the KC as the next step for the performance junkies (>450bhp) and as soon as someone releases a design with intakes (if ever, and they wont be cheap) - it will not so much get us into the >22psi territory - but rather get our heat down and our density up.and even though we're still seeing a boost gauge at 22psi you should feel the gains.
At the end of the day it'll all be evident by lower IAT's, less retard and all for your personal butt dyno viewing pleasure .
supercooler is stage 2 nw
Re: code 3 stacked
+1
Here's my own words of wisdom and prediction to the OP: Disreagard those of us that have "been there and done that" and spend money to your heart's content, but it won't make you faster.
I suggest you be prepared with a list of excuses next year when you run the car at the dragon. Chances are it will be running slower, and you won't have a clue as to why.
My credentials are in my signature.
IMG_20130217_165146_975_zps9d3ca8ab.jpg
Last edited by grip grip; 12-11-2013 at 08:23 PM.
Re: code 3 stacked
Rob big intake?? I'm buying the tweated and stock intake manifolds. Well I'm a speed demon. I love speed. So it looks like I will sell my pulleys & get bigger. I just thought stacking would give the max hp. When you stack what would I have to buy since I already have code 3. I will also already have fuel pump cause I have a friend who works at Mercedes and is giving it for cost. I am just saying I will prolly only get $400 for my code 3. I will have to put around $500 more to get bigger pulleys. Fuel injections are $550. I was just thinking it would be more cost efficient to double stack plus I'm getting more HP.
Bottom line, is when you push the envelop you are going to have to be more aware, or monitoring A/F. regardless of the combination you decide to run. Running what you have now is pretty safe, even adding the tweaked manis, you are still safe. Good luck with what you decide to do, plenty here will help you if we can...
leave the stacked alone big manis a waste of money unless you open the grill up a bic i/c is another waste. listen to grip and others or dont but if your into tossing money away ill send you my address to help fund my porsche build. im 20,000$ into it and could use a sponser
Re: code 3 stacked
I'm an interested buyer for your Code 3 (I need a back up pulley in case I have problems with my 62mm Karmen set up . . . still trying to sort out the car's fuel demands). Please let me know if it becomes available. THANKS . . .