My new home built DCIA.
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Re: My new home built DCIA.
3 Inch Cold Air Intake Tube Tubing Aluminum Y | eBay
I'm guessing you got away with $2-$300 bucks.. not a bad deal..
22 Degree bend on the long section of tubing?
I'm guessing you got away with $2-$300 bucks.. not a bad deal..
22 Degree bend on the long section of tubing?
Last edited by Mrmiata; 02-25-2013 at 11:31 PM.
Re: My new home built DCIA.
Thanks for the kind words everyone.... The intake looks good, my hands are a f'n mess thou!!!!!
Approx $300 for me, but I bought the kit listed but did not need the straight pipes and cut the 90's.
Qty 1: 3" Kit:
Aluminum Pipe
Here is the actual parts required: Approx $275.00
Qty 1: 1' - 3" - 180
Aluminum Pipe
Qty 2: 2'- 3" - 45
Aluminum Pipe
Other required parts:
Qty 1: 3" Y pipe
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/SPT9479.htm
Qty 12: 3" T band clamps
T Band Clamp
Qty 2: 3" silicone 90
90 degree blue hoses
Qty 2: 2' - 3" - silocone straight
Silicone Tubing
Qty 1: 3" straight silicone - approx 1.5" - length should be same as width of 2 of the T clamps, this is used to connect Y to the throttle body - use will have excess from the 2'.
Parts for new PCV bypass to intake:
Qty 1: Silicone port system
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...b0976f874c779f
Qty 1: 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barb
Water to air fittings
Qty 1: 2' or 3' of 5/8 rad hose for drivers rear PCV port
Qty 2: 1" worm gear clamps
Worm Gear Clamps
K&N Air Filter:
- I do not have the part number handy, just went to my local performance shop and bought 2 smaller filters with a 3" intake. I would suggest a 3-1/2" OD filter would be the best, mine are tappered from 3"to 4" which is a tight fit behind the grill.
Notes:
Cut the 180 in the middle to make 2 - 90's - connects filters to 17" straight silicone behind grill.
Straight 3" silicone should be approx 17"
I installed the silicone port system with 5/8 barb fitting on the bottom of the silicone straight 17" drivers side, ran 5/8 heater hose to PCV port
You have to trim the 3" Y pipe on all three sides to leave only enough length to hold the T clamp, approx 3/4".
You have to trim the silicone 90's to fit, I trimmed off all excess past the bend except for room for the T clamp, approx 3/4" remaining.
Also had to put a 90 bend in one of the metal connectors holding the horn. Installed only a single horn at the moment. Installed washers to make up for the little lip then installed bracket facing back towards the radiator, horn sound port points down and is tucked in behind the filter on the drivers side. Attached picture is sort of correct, except I had to spin the horn towards the rad to enable me to move the filter father towards the center on final fitting to make more room behind the grill. Smaller K&N would help this. I will probably swap out at some point and re-install both horns...
You also have to remove the original black passthru adapters on each side of the Radiator- this is a major pain....
I also had to use a worm gear clamp to connect the silicone connector on the Y to the throttle body since the lip on the TB is small, I found that the T clamps were to wide and would squeeze Y off TB when tightened. I used one that came with the K&N filters.
TTYL
Ron
Approx $300 for me, but I bought the kit listed but did not need the straight pipes and cut the 90's.
Qty 1: 3" Kit:
Aluminum Pipe
Here is the actual parts required: Approx $275.00
Qty 1: 1' - 3" - 180
Aluminum Pipe
Qty 2: 2'- 3" - 45
Aluminum Pipe
Other required parts:
Qty 1: 3" Y pipe
http://www.sfxperformance.com/parts/SPT9479.htm
Qty 12: 3" T band clamps
T Band Clamp
Qty 2: 3" silicone 90
90 degree blue hoses
Qty 2: 2' - 3" - silocone straight
Silicone Tubing
Qty 1: 3" straight silicone - approx 1.5" - length should be same as width of 2 of the T clamps, this is used to connect Y to the throttle body - use will have excess from the 2'.
Parts for new PCV bypass to intake:
Qty 1: Silicone port system
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/produ...b0976f874c779f
Qty 1: 1/2" NPT to 5/8 barb
Water to air fittings
Qty 1: 2' or 3' of 5/8 rad hose for drivers rear PCV port
Qty 2: 1" worm gear clamps
Worm Gear Clamps
K&N Air Filter:
- I do not have the part number handy, just went to my local performance shop and bought 2 smaller filters with a 3" intake. I would suggest a 3-1/2" OD filter would be the best, mine are tappered from 3"to 4" which is a tight fit behind the grill.
Notes:
Cut the 180 in the middle to make 2 - 90's - connects filters to 17" straight silicone behind grill.
Straight 3" silicone should be approx 17"
I installed the silicone port system with 5/8 barb fitting on the bottom of the silicone straight 17" drivers side, ran 5/8 heater hose to PCV port
You have to trim the 3" Y pipe on all three sides to leave only enough length to hold the T clamp, approx 3/4".
You have to trim the silicone 90's to fit, I trimmed off all excess past the bend except for room for the T clamp, approx 3/4" remaining.
Also had to put a 90 bend in one of the metal connectors holding the horn. Installed only a single horn at the moment. Installed washers to make up for the little lip then installed bracket facing back towards the radiator, horn sound port points down and is tucked in behind the filter on the drivers side. Attached picture is sort of correct, except I had to spin the horn towards the rad to enable me to move the filter father towards the center on final fitting to make more room behind the grill. Smaller K&N would help this. I will probably swap out at some point and re-install both horns...
You also have to remove the original black passthru adapters on each side of the Radiator- this is a major pain....
I also had to use a worm gear clamp to connect the silicone connector on the Y to the throttle body since the lip on the TB is small, I found that the T clamps were to wide and would squeeze Y off TB when tightened. I used one that came with the K&N filters.
TTYL
Ron
Last edited by blasco403; 02-26-2013 at 12:19 PM.
Re: My new home built DCIA.
NICE!! I love it. I did something similiar. https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-3-tubing.html
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