I would agree about changing the motor mounts while you have the motor jacked up for the install. As you said if you are changing the motor mounts you might as well fill them with poly so you don't have to worry about them again.

I am a big fan of doing something once and doing it right the first time. I really hate it when I have to go back and redo something.

 

Check out the Needswings website... Modified manis.
The pipes from the manis down to the 'Y' were opened up to allow better flow.

When I get the dyno in a couple of weeks we'll see how much power the improved air-flow begets.

Unfortunately it won't be on the same dyno hopefully the numbers won't be too skewed.

 

It's looking like I'm heading towards doing the motor mounts and the vrp headers in one go.
I have some question - as usual researching the fu*k out of everything ad infinitum....

1. Freeing up manifold to pipe flange
WIS says
Q - apart from removing the exhaust to get the manifolds out....which I dont know is entirely necessary...
"Use a suitable cocking bolt to knock rivet nuts out of holes in the exhaust manifold....
insert new rivert nut into hole of exhaust manifold....
screw in cocking bolt and tighten"
Q - what's the chances this will go trouble free and I can reuse the original components? - previous experience on remove/replace appreciated.

2. Gaskets
I'm not reading there are any gaskets between these two components (exhaust pipe and manifold)....am I right?

3. Lifting and removal procedure
From WIS
After removing exhaust.....
"Unbolt left engine mount at front axle carrier - when removing left exhaust manifold. Right and left engine mounts must not be slackened at the same time."
Q - not sure why....loss of orientation? Can only go back in one way....
"Remove Sensors - upstream of catalytic converters
Raise engine on right - when removing right exhaust manifold
Raise engine on left - when removing left exhaust manifold
Remove ignition coils to achieve better access
Left sife od engine - Push engine to the right for this step and lift exhaust manifold up and out.
Right side of engine - Push engine to the left and lift exhaust manifold up and out."

No special instructions on replace apart from replace nuts and gaskets, replace rivet nuts

So I'm hearing I'll probably best use an engine lift to do this.

4. Tranny mount
There's no ref to having to undo tranny mount...I would have thought that would make it easier - I have a new one of those to replace as well along with the steering damper.
advice sought pls.

5. Drive shaft bearings front and rear + drive shaft centre support bearing + Rear Subframe Diff mount, Center bushing.
I was looking to do these somtime as well - either during this procedure or when I take my diff out to install the wavetrack (as well as flex diisk). If it's better to leave it and do it then, then fine - just want to do as much as possible when I'm in the zone.

6. Anything else I should tackle?
...ah yes - lambda sensor and (possible EGT) install...I'm presuming I should install a bung at least until the terminations are ready - I'm guessing the sensors need to be "heated" rather than just installed and left to hookup on another month. The vrp headers already have EGT weldolets so bungs shouldnt be a problem in there. But the Lamba - I'll have to decide which side and then get a weldolet and bung in there now for later.
...others?

 

Act quick and you might get that lift cheap - not too far from you and 10 hours left in sale :

Engine crane engine hoist | eBay

 

awsome...another piece of junk to have to please the missus.....
all I can say - EAGLE EYE...thanx
Makes me feel like I should go the whole hog and pull the whole engine & tranny out....

b22b

 

Ah. The mind of a true detailer .....
Think of all the crud you could clean up .....

 

You are correct no gasket between exh pipe and manifold.
How many miles on the car? Because the pipe seperated easily from the manifold on mine. It will drop 2 or 3 inches if you loosen the 4 bolts on the trans mount with exhaust hanger....no need to remove.
The hard part is getting the old manifolds out and the new headers in as the engine needs to be lifted 4 or 5 inches and a small boy with small stong hands can set them in place and tighten the bolts. Or you can lift the engine a little farther and replace the motor mounts and headers without the small boy. (your choice). I am going to go out on a limb here and say most likely your motor mount is broken as I have replaced 3 and finally fixed the issue by cabling down the motor and have no further problems with broken mounts. The trans mount will need to have you support the trans while you replace it. A good roll around jack with a 2x6 between the saddle and the trans pan will keep from denting the bottom. The sensors have enough play in the lines to not be removed if you just unclip them from the mounting clips if you don't want to mess with unbolting them. I thrash my car a lot and have never had an issue with the drivesfaft bearings. I have not heard of much trouble with them but if you are intent on replacement be sure to clock the shaft and all related components ( mark a line through all mounts and spacers between all the pieces) nothing worse then getting it all back together and having the vibration from an unbalanced intermediate shaft. Those are all balanced from the factory in the positions they will be residing in the car so keep it straight and you should have no issues.
I have a set of the VRP headers and the motor mounts need to be raised 1.5" to clear the frame etc......a plate between the motor mount and the frame would work or just fill the mounts with poly and they rest higher then with the hyd fluid so that could work as well.
Good luck ....take lots of pics along the way.