Can't wait to see/hear it Steve!! And I forgot about the AMG's narrow hips... I remember the shredded tires now.

 

from what I remember Grip is at about 23psi with his 181 and a turned SC, what are you expecting for boost now?

 

i hit 20 in my short pull but afr is lean so theres room for more

 

The fact that you are running lean is funny and awesome. The journey continues!!!

 

Lean isn't that funny, perhaps not expecting to be lean is. Awesome is what it will be when no longer lean. Anyone try Meth injection?

Les

 

so whats the consensus (if there is one yet)?

After pulleys to + boost, a custom tune from datalogging, then if still lean, fuel pump, regulator, and re-tune, then if still lean, go TTM injectors with fuel rail mod and re-tune?

I have read some different ideas about correcting AFR's with just increasing fuel volume and pressure vs injectors.

we want mods, we want mods, we want mods

 

It's funny knowing how rich he was a few weeks ago. He is making the journey with tuning to get it where it needs to be.

 

ill be on the dyno friday getting the car tuned for the stacked setup i have on now along with all my other mods. if all goes well the only fueling add on you need for 20+ psi would be the ttm rail and injectors. the fuel pump may be needed but i honestly dont think so. my short pull to 6000 pm in 3rd gear showed 14 afr which is surely lean but well within the workable range. fuel pressure was 50 psi at 6000 rpm.
the rail equalizes the pressure from front to the back of the engine and from what grip grip and i have seen with the stacked setups the 550 cc injectors supply all the fuel thats needed. at most a pierburg or walbro 255 pump would be an inexpensive add on.

matt i figured that the best way to conquer the fat afr was stack them puppies!! no more fat afr!

 

So no let er eat set up from needswings for 20 psi?

You have 20 psi with a 65 SC pulley (I don't know what size the 1st gen C3P's were) and a 178.

Grip has 22 psi with a 70.3 SC pulley and a 181 and needed more fuel mods.

I am trying to create a mod list through you guy's experience. Whats the going rate for this?

Interested to see your results this Friday. A dyno just opened up down the road from me. When I go what matters? What brand/type of dyno? How do I get the best information out of the dyno to use?

 

32krazy!, grip grip, and myself went a different route from what NW offers. We are running 550 cc injectors with a looped fuel rail. The injectors are 25% over stock and provide more than adequate fuel for any single (185mm like me) or stacked (32/grip) setup.

The key is getting the tuning right to accomodate the fuel setup as well as the boost pressure being run.

 

This is making more sense, and I didn't mean to leave you out of this innovative group (i've been reading your threads as well). So tuning can prevent concerns of rich AFR's at idle and low speeds with the bigger injectors?

Also what do you guys recomend for a newbie starting from stock, 178 with C3P, 181 with machined, or 185. Is there concern for the altenator, water pump, and power steering turning too fast with the 185? But 185 is the cheapest way to go here.....

 

No worries, I am definitely not in the innovative group...I just reaped rewards because I was in the right place at the right time with the right amount of cash.

Idle and low speeds are not as much of a concern as you generally run at 14.7 AFR (atmospheric) while cruising. Now if you have just absolutely too much fuel, it will be rich and wash down the cylinders, but I'm still not 100% dialed in, but am not running TOO rich at idle/cruising speeds.

As far as the best way to go, there's a 1000 opinions on each setup. What grip and Steve are doing is something really no one else is currently (waldig stacked briefly a while back). I have been running the 185mm or almost three years now with no worries, but as I began adding even more air to the mix, there was no way I was going to be pushing the car to the top end of the RPM/Speed band, aka haven't taken it to the track. Now that I have plenty of fuel, it still has to be 100% dialed in which could take a while...but it will get there.

Just ask Steve, once you get to this point it definitely isn't a quick process, it is a long journey which you must be quite dedicated to get to the end of....or at least near the end, because modding is never finished.

 

if i were to do this all over again i would run grips original setup. single cai 181 pulley tune and dr's. cheap and proven results. 4 11.8 runs back to back. the path i go down is much different because i enjoy the thrill of testing prototype products and seeing the results. as im the guinea pig i get most of my parts at a vastly reduced rate and as such i take on a vastly greater chance of breaking something.
this is all just a hobby for me my car gets maybe 5000 miles ayr and trailered to most of the dragstrips i go to. so mod if you must but research long and hard before you add the first go fast part!

 

I'll add a word or two, take precautions. My tunes have all been for 93 octane but a remote tune is a shot in the dark and it takes several revisions to nail it down. Check it on a dyno or data log ASAP and until you know whats going on put in 100 or 104 octane. Better safe than sorry.

Les

 

Thanks great info for me right now.

Who or what is dr.'s results?

remote tunes are just blanket tunes without datalogging feedback or dyno results right?



I realize that before any mods or tunes I should know what is going on. I have been looking at the Zeitronix Tuning Combo. Is that what one should get or is just the zt-2 all I'll need? I like the idea of seeing what's going on real time with the display though....

 

dr's = drag radials .3 off your best time with them set up properly.
remote tunes can be custom it is in the data the tuner receives to determine how custom it gets. i log 10 parameters and send them to the tuner.
dash daq w/ the zt-2 is what i use and its a great combo but there are several other ways to log that may be less costly and work very well.