Ok if you have first hand seen it that works, thats good for me! Keep up the good work then bud. I have a dyno at my disposal and it has me thinking...... get a huge cooler of ice water and make the I/C circut open and draw from that and discard the heated water out of the shop. Make some runs and just see if the I/C is infact a limiting factor under boost.....hmmmmm

 

Alot of the guys on the MB forums mount a big tank of ice water in the back of their car. It does work for them but the ice melts real quick. There is also an option of a A/C cooled tank of water called the Killer Chiller. Read-expensive. I'm working with what I have, on a limited budget. The two pumps did help me but I want to drive my highway commute first before I post some results.

Thanks and that would be a really cool test!

 

The coolant is going through the IC just as fast so it will pick up less heat, and thus has less heat to give up when it goes through the HE. The HE will do a better job when the coolant temperature is lower and the flow rate fast enough for turbulent flow. Coolant passing through the system faster will make it more efficient. Going faster still has diminishing returns, fast enough is good enough, balance is required.

The velocity of the coolant has a direct bearing on its heat transfer capacity, too slow and the flow is laminar and allows an insulating slow moving layer of water along the walls, the main stream in the middle runs through and picks up or gives up little heat. A fast moving stream of coolant scours the side walls and prevents the insulating layer.

For example, if you study a slow moving stream you can see silt on the bottom because of laminar flow, after a heavy rain the rushing water scours all this silt away because of turbulent flow and leaves only the stones and gravel.

 

fwiw i got a killer chiller form ebay for 305$ shipped. the deals are there just have to hunt them

 

Wow! Have you installed it yet? I think it is a great idea.

 

no sitting on a bench with a dozen other mods yet to be done!

 

The ford lightning has this stock and has a resivoirof cooler water that gets stored up and be released upon driver request (or something like this from what I remember). This sounds like a lot of plumbing, valving, switches, etc.... I imagine a killer chiller will just be in the IC loop and help drop the temp slightly?

 

Similar performance reductions (lower flows) as in an air handler system.
Every elbow, valve, y t fittings, reducer etc lowers flow rate so keep it simple as possible!

 

Don't you work Sunday's Tunaglove? I's gotta noses sif it werks!!! I remember an arrogant member on MBworld that insisted the car world was stupid for not listening to him. Meziere 136 or don't bother. I'm starting to think he may be right.

Les

 

there isnt a single way to fix the root problems everyone has with the i/c setup. the design itself is flawed. if you want massive cool # theres a way to do this but nobody wants to foot the cost of fabbing the design. top mounted intercooler and adding a killer chiller will drop iats to 40* below ambient and solve all your problems. dual tmic wont allow for any intake setup save cutting a hole in the hood and running a filter under it, so how about a single large tmic on the drivers side and fabb a similar box on the pass side and run the intake thru it to the rad support. cost should be less than 3000$ for the entire setup

 

It helped a little.

My comparison is suburb to highway to city traffic type driving.

Before the second pump my temp would settle (after fully warming up) to 30 degress above ambient.
Now it stays at about 25 degrees above. When I hit the gas and get a liittle air moving it dips down about 5 degress. Wednesday night drags at BIR so we'll see what happens under boost then. I don't really go flying around on the street too much.So, I think I am seeing minimal gains with the two pumps, but I had them lying around and it was fun to take the bumper off anyway.

Jim's highway IATs are the benchmark for me. WOW!

The fan controller however works great. Hottest day we have had so far this spring has been 78F and my ECT never went over 178F. Highway, traffic, the throttle just seems snappier at a lower temp. I really thought that lowering the engine temp would help with IATs but they settled to the same 30 degrees above regardless (now 25).

32Krazy, let me know if you want to get rid of tha KC, I'll throw that bad boy right in!

 

I just race in Alaska.......simplier...

 

I am so spoiled by having a snowless winter here in MN.

20F air=torque city!

 

20 degree tires = smoke. Woody