First and foremost, I'm posting this for those interested in running stacked and only want to pick up a few extra PSI. If you want a supercharger pulley that produces the power of a Eurocharged or Code 3 pulley, then I recommend you order a SC pulley from Eurocharged.

If you're interested in going with a crank pulley I recommend you call either Needwings or Eurocharged.

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Now back to business. If you're interested in getting more boost out of your oversized crank pulley (178, 181, 185, or 190) then read on.

Here's the receipt from the local machine shop I use to machine stock pulleys. The first time they charged me $178, and on the second pulley they charged $140.

Please contact them directly, and there is no need to mention me. They won't be expecting your call, and I don't get a penny from the transaction. You might want to ask for Jason, since he's their sale guy.

FWIW, this is a very large shop and I feel fortunate they even bother with the pulleys.

Also, you might want to read this thread: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-codes.html

fc4f5499.jpg

 

I am a machinist and the price is based on a per hour and some shops have a 3 hour min. what size did you have the pulley machined to, and what pulleys did you have machined? did it make a difference in power? if so I might have to do mine

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...-no-codes.html

 

You have it all wrong, you look at the guy and look at his car. You do the job for cash and forget the bill.
Guys driving expensive looking cars like a Crossfire would be charged at a higher rate.

 

in most cases I could see that being more expensive and I guess it depends where you take it, I was just saying based upon the shop I work at and plus it helps if you have a friend thats a machinist, and again I could machine my own pulleys so no cost to me

 

Just curious grip grip... But why did you have two pulleys done? Was the first one done wrong or had a problem? thanks

 

Photos and pulley size machined to? Thanks

 

Quick answers to some of the questions above:

I had two pulleys machined, since the 1st one was making more boost than I wanted.

The most material I removed from a stocker was 5mm.

Of course it made a difference in power; it's smaller than stock. Why would I post the information if it didn't make power?

 

Grip Grip, just to be 100% clear... 5mm is what you took off stock pulley and are running now, with no problems? Thanks!

Debating on going this route over euros sc pulley to save some $, than buy their tune and a cold air intake.

 

The 5mm pullley in conjunction with my 181mm crank pulley produced more boost than I wanted, so I sold it to someone with a 178mm crank pulley. He recently dyno'd 400HP to the wheels.

I'm currently using a stock pulley that has had 3.3mm machined off it, and it's working fine.

If you are running the stock crank pulley, I recommend you have at least 5mm removed from the SC pulley, not 3.3. I never tried removing more than 5mm.

 

Thanks!

I am running stock, think I should be brave and go 6mm or stick with just 5? And do you have any extra pulleys or one machined?

 

I would. I just texted a friend that had his machined more aggressively than me. I'll post back with how much he removed once I get his response.

 

Thanks! Now I need to find a extra pulley and somewhere to
Have it machined. Doh!

 

My friend Rodney, who is a member on here, had his machined to 64mm the first time, which destroyed the pulley. The second time he had a pulley machined to 66mm and it worked perfectly. Do not machine it to anything under 66mm unless you have money and time to burn.

 

Definitely dont have either

 

I think I need to do this. I wish I had an extra pulley. Looked for one on the forum for a little while and everyone thought their stock pulley was worth code 3 or euro pulley prices. Just didn't have the guts to machine mine without a backup.

Grip Grip, I'm still running very rich. I need to log a few runs and let you look at them. I can only datalog AFR with the MTX-L that you recommended since I haven't added anything else to the mix. I am hitting low 10's AFR but need to log to see what its doing in the top of third. It would be nice to add a little boost to see if I can lean up that way. My fuel pressure is luckily naturally high at 62 psi. I guess I got a good stock filter/regulator. I know Jerry tuned me pretty rich as I thought I was lean cutting out before the tune. It wasn't lean just cutting out,my DIY intake was vibrating on the coil packs. Dummy mistake. So I got a rich tune to start with and nice high fuel pressure. I'm definitely in the safe area mixture wise.

I have noticed something strange the last week. At steady cruise, I have always ran at 14.7-14.8 but started reading 14.9-15.0. Kinda wonder if my filter is stopping up. Haven't changed anything, but I did let the tank run pretty empty a couple of times before fillng up. Full throttle still shows very rich. Just typing this has me hopping to go make some runs. It feels like spring outside. 75 degrees...

 

running to rich is just as bad as to lean. risk washing down the cylinders. as for the fuel pressure if your reading off the enhd of the fuel rail thats were the pressure builds the most so its a false reading . as the pressure flows back it drops . thats why the # 6 cylinder could be leaner than the other cylinders

 

Is this why a completed loop of the fuel rail is optimal ?

 

DING DING!! my afr dropped 2 full points and the loop equalizes the pressure across the rail. no more lean cylinder at the rear of the rail. bruce and i are finishing up the loop and he should have it available in another month or so. i have had it on my car for about 3 months now. it was unsightly and bugged the crap out of me. since then i have reduced the line and rerouted it so all intakes oem or otherwise will fit with the loop. also i have bruce setting me up with a fitting to run fuel pressure fittings off the rail

 

Anyone consider machining off another mm or two from the new EC supercharger pulley?