https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...placement.html

 

Perfect, thank you. I will give this a try. I see some on sale on eBay for around $10. Should these be adequate or would I be better off to find a specific brand?

Also, I'm not particularly sure what this sensor actually does and why it would cause my car to shake like this. Anyone care to provide a brief explanation? I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

 

For $10 bucks I'll ship you my old one.. probably work as good..

Find the Bosch ones.. should be around 40 bucks.. or if you can't wait on Ebay.. Advanced Auto has worked well for me so far. Lifetime warranty.. and around 65 bucks.

Crank Position Sensor tells the ignition when to fire.. simple version.. LOL

 

But why does that cause the car to react in such a way?

And thanks. i will give one a try and hopefully that will solve my problem. If not, where would you go next?

 

If it "mis-fires" your engine does likewise..

Next on my list would be the CPS.. LOL.

Cam Postioning Sensor.. but these seem to hold up quite well.

 

I'll give the Crank Position Sensor a try and keep everyone posted. Thanks!

 

My first step would be to get any fault codes read, or you could end up throwing parts at the car and still have problems. You cannot take the electrical parts back just because they did not solve the problem, and the dollars can soon mount up.

That seems to be the logical thing to do, even if the Check Engine Light is not on does not mean there has not been a problem recorded.

 

I agree.. who needs a spare cps if yours is still good..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BEN...23f7f5&vxp=mtr

 

We all need a spare but it may be a waste of time to get one now when it may be a delay in fixing the car.

I carry a spare CPS, CrPS and a RCM with the required tools in my trunk besides the tire repair kit.

 

Guys, does the Check Engine Light always come on when the CPS is going bad?

 

You could have a vacuum leak on the bottom of the throttle body, the base cracks the rubber and does this too. Woody Enjoy

 

Wouldn't that cause a rough idle all the time rather than intermittant Woody? Crank Shaft Position sensors go bad in other cars as well. I just replaced one in the Tahoe. They just wear out. If a vacuum leak, like a hose off, or lose air intake, that problem would be constant I would think. And replacing a part before it goes bad isn't wasting money, it's called preventive maintenance. 25K and up would be good preventive maintenance...keep the old one as a spare...

 

Replaced easily yesterday. Took about 20 minutes with a small ratchet set. All I can do now is wait to see the problem occurs again when I start it. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks!

 

Cool! Definitely keep up posted!

 

Guess he's still out on that test drive..

 

I am having rough idle too, but it is just that; only at idle. Power seems a little less. I was thinking I didn't get my cork mani gaskets completely tightened when I installed the DCAI. The rough idle didn't start until about 500 miles after the new gaskets were installed, not right away. I am having a boost sensor installed next week and will replace the mani gaskets again, this time coating them with copper gasket sealer and using a torque wrench. If that doesn't fix it then try CPS?

 

Mine does the rough idle and chokes on throttle every now and again. My battery needs replacing so that could be the culprit. Anyway, I just turn the car off and pull the key out. Apparently just turning the car off does work so pulling the key out must reset things electrically and when I restart things are great. I used to think it was a vacuum leak but codes will be thrown pretty quickly with a leak, as I have replaced the throttlebody spacer and mani gaskets over the years due to leaks. I have not had a code thrown due to this intermitten problem, yet. I will be replacing the CPS when I install the new battery just to be sure. Might not hurt to have the PCM repaired soon as well, 67,000 miles and counting. cheers

 

PCM repaired? How and what?

I'd be looking at the fuel pump and or filter for the rough idle and choking. Maybe you lack a little pressure or volume.

 

I have changed my filter/regulator as preventative maintenance. However, i would assume and rightfully so, that the car would throw a code for lack of fuel pressure.

 

Returned a friend home from the movies tonight and low and behold the problem occurred again. This time I restarted the car probably two dozen times but the rough idle and next to nothing power continued. Luckily I was able to make it home less than a mile away, with my hazards on of course. Wasn't able to top 20MPH without the power cutting out. What gives? I've replaced the CPS. What should be my next step?