DO NOT RUN THAT ENGINE YOUR CRANK PULLEY IS TOO FAR OUT

I went down to the garage and took some pics and it is clear to me that your crank pulley is too far forward... I will post some pics shortly

 

Put a square edge on the crank pulley and see how it aligns with the tensioner.

 

You can see the pulley sets flush not out to the front you can also see the crank sets out further on yours ( covering the ridges on the block at the bottom) you can clearly see the ones on mine

 

Thanks guys, I didn't think I was crazy.

What say you, tunaglove ?

 

Son of a gun, you guys are exactly right..............after checking all of the pulley alignments with a straight edge it's clear that the crank pulley is out by a lot, probably 3/8ths to 1/2 inch. Damn...........how the heck does that happen? Could the crank be walking out all together or do you think this is just a pulley issue. Oh man this sucks.

 

Pulley issue, the bolt is broken or unscrewed. I assume it's the OEM pulley?
Is the bolt still there? Maybe the rubber damper is sheared though instead but ........

 

Yes I believe it's actually the original and the bolt is still there. Are you supposed to have room to stick your pinky finger in the bolt? Having driven several of the C32's, it does not appear to have been modified with a larger crank pulley. Next question..........where to buy stock OEM crank pulley? Anyone know of a good place besides the "stealer"?

 

glad u caught it before it c one out. Good luck

 

try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Don't know how to lookup the correct MB part, but there is ONE listed for a Crossfire SRT6 in Pasadena, Texas

 

[quote=c32bnz]. Are you supposed to have room to stick your pinky finger in the bolt? quote]

Not sure what you mean but I can feel the head of my bolt easily and it is obviously touching the inside of the pulley.

This bolt should be tightened up to specs and this requires the engine to be stopped from turning. A new bolt is required even if this one is in one piece.

The pulley is on a key and it and the pulley may be damaged. The key may have damaged the crankshaft as well. Not good.

 

the crank bolt should be TIGHT up against the pulley.....
removing the crank pulley should be pretty easy for you right now.... remove the bolt, pull the pulley off and inspect the key and keyway on the crankshaft to make sure it is not damaged... then inspect the crank pulley and make sure the rubber isolation is not breaking down... if all that is good... re-mount and install a NEW crank bolt and torque to 150 ft/lbs + 90 degrees....

 

I say "yum this hat is delicious!!"

Can't believe a stock pulley could move foward and then still run true. It only has a few centimeters of contact with the crank! Wrong again Tuna, LOL!

 

OK, stuck the old iphone down there to see what's doing w/ the bolt. Here's what I see

http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/l...t=IMG_0787.mp4

I'm having stroke thinking about where I've been over the last week with it like this. Geeze did I get lucky (fingers crossed that there is no damage). Mind you the car ran great, no symptoms other than that little squeal for 1 min upon start up which was the belt and went away once the tensioner pulley and belt were replaced.

 

C32 - may be with luck, all you have to do is replace the bolt.

Tuna - It takes a good man to own up to mistakes, but I do see where you were coming from.
I would not have believed that sucker was still running either.

ONE MAJOR DISASTER AVERTED !

Could have fell off while pulling out into incoming traffic on the freeway ..... GULP !!!

The engine would probably not have quit, BUT a crankshaft pulley spinning at 4000 RPM free in the engine compartment would not be pretty.

 

ditto.........

 

ok dont overthink this. remove the bolt and pulley. inspect the keyway it will still be in the crank. inspect the keyway slot in the pulley. it this is all good inspect the rubber elastomer on the pulley . look for bulges or rubber sticking out. if it is new pulley needed. if not reinstall the pullay after installing a new crank seal. you have it off so do this as a preventative leak measure. torque the pulley to 150 ft/lbs + 90*. this is not easy! use the proper crank pulley tool and a cheater pipe after the intial torque is achieved. drive the car 100 miles and retorque again.
if you require a new pulley go to oediscountparts.com that is skyland automotive in ashville n.c. mercedes dealer with the cheapest parts out there . 260$ shipped
do something generous for a stranger as luck has shoved a horsehoe up your ace!! this could have been a very costly accident to your engine

 

Thanks everyone...........pulley, bolt and front seal ordered. The bolt is tight so my gut tells me there is an issue w/ the rubber/harmonic balancer. Going to replace all of it, $260 will give me some pretty cheap peace of mind. Of course my mind starts wandering towards.........."Hey this is a good time to install a Eurocharged 185mm pulley........LOL". But right now the extra power is not important. Merry Christmas!

 

I think you have it covered. It looks like the pulley. If you compare your pulley (in post #1) to Howard's (in post #23) you can see difference (visible separation). Your crank/key is probably fine.

A 3/4" impact is good for taking it off (you will need to remove your fan).

As 32Krazy! suggested, one more item you may want to get is the tool for locking the pulley (when re-torquing it) . Since you are using a stock pulley, you can use the mercedes tool
Mercedes Harmonic Balancer Holder Tool Crank Pulley,E320,ML320,E430,ML430,C280 | eBay

or you can use the style that temporarily goes in place of the starter (locking the flywheel).
Chris

P.s. some will tell you to oil the seal. but my motor builder insists that this is the dry-type

 

Here's a new 181. BRAND NEW EUROCHARGED 181MM CRANK PULLEY FITS SRT-6, SLK32 AMG, AND C32 AMG M112 | eBay

 

Saw that.........but when the time comes I'd go w/ the 185 and tune. Right now I just want to turn the key and go........mods all go towards my sleeper wagon. Almost finished. PA190012.jpg