It looks like I will have an early Christmas present come tomorrow, a 181 pulley from the great guys at Eurocharged. I have searched through the various pulley posts but I haven't found one with complete installation instruction. Found alot of tips but no complete step by step installs. Does anyone have the pdf instuctions or step by step?

 

Be very careful and make sure you have no wobble after the install at all!

 

Don't recall a how to here.

Couple of tips though.
1. Remove the fan assembly for clearance.
2. I'm sure it's not an issue anymore but some of the 181 pulleys were the wrong length. Before you mount your 181 compare how "high" it is to your stock pulley.
3. The crank bolt on my coupe was SO tight I had to jam the flywheel to keep it from turning while I turned the wrench. And it took a butt load of grunting and a pipe extension to finally break the bolt loose.

 

Get the right tool to hold the flywheel. You take out the starter motor and it goes in there.

 

here it is on ebay with free shipping

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

I just wanted to have one around, so I offered him $21 .... he accepted and sent it to me in a couple of days. very nice quality

Chris

 

It's pretty tight....

edit: giant picture ,sorry.

 

I really would like to install tomorow as I might be going to the strip on Friday night. Doesn't leave me time to order the tool and get it in. Is there an alternate way of holding the flywheel that is safe? Removing is not a problem, Snap On Impact. But installation torqueing would be where I would have a problem.

 

The pulley is torqued to 150 ft/lbs then ANOTHER 90 degrees after that. Having the flywheel slip with all that torque would suck big time. Having the pulley fly off the crank would really suck big time! Do it right or pay!

 

it's not pretty, the way I did it was to carefully put a prybar (eg harbor freight pry bar with screw driver handle) through the inspection hole of the flywheel torque converter area (engaging the torrque converter weldments) and than have someone hold it in place with their foot (as the sit on the ground, leg straigt out, force line running towards their hip) while I add the 90° past 140 foot pounds.

worth mentioning, I would strongly recommend replacing the engine front seal (that the pulley passes though) while you are replacing the pulley.

this is not a job you want to rush.

Chris

 

To do it right you need to;
1, Check the size as tighed1 says
2, Use the special locking tool, or you might come back here and say the car will not start.
3, Get a new bolt.

 

I would definitely prefer to use the locking tool. I have seen one post with the flywheel issue. Very bad news. I've built many engines over the years, 350 chevys, 302 fords, and 440 mopars. Don't have any experience with new models. Been in bad shape the past year, I'm just getting back to doing the things I used to be able to do. I would think if you know what your doing, you could do it without the tool.

 

With your experience it sounds like you will do just fine.
I used a similar method to what latemodel21 mentioned. Worked for me.

 

Below is the picture of a bent flywheel. Look in the top left corner.
A fellow member here was installing his 181 and unfortunately his car would not start after the pulley install. The new flywheel cost him $1K installed.
Car was out of commission for weeks.

lulzwheel.jpg

 

that picture of the bent flywheel says it all. If you are going to do it the prybar method .... better be careful of the spot you are applying force to.

I have done this twice on my car (once to replace a bad front seal), and both times I wished I had the factory tool. I never had an issue like this, but with the amount of force required to go the additional 90° (probably on the order of 300 foot lbs) .... it seems like it is bound to happen to someone.

I again strongly suggest you get the $21 tool and order a new front seal ($5 ?) and then put it in.

my .02
Chris

 

I have the proper tool and live down the road in tennessee. If you want it I can ship it out tomorrow second day priority. You'll probably have it on friday worst case saturday.

2011-11-02_20-21-57_899.jpg

 

this is the proper tool to use for the pulley. the starter tool allows for stress to be applied to the crank keyway and the potential for disaster. get the proper tool and 2 1" diameter cheater pipes approx 40" long and its an easy swap.
Mercedes Harmonic Balancer Holder Tool Crank Pulley,E320,ML320,E430,ML430,C280 | eBay

 

Steve, I know this tool will remove and install the stock pulley (and remove/install the ASP/needswings 178) but will it work on the Let and EC 181's and 185's ?

Chris

 

should confirm with jake but i dont see why not.

 

sorry man, that was a rhetorical question .... that mercedes tool relies on opening in the hub casting that don't exist on the aftermarket pulleys

soI am fairly certain that it will only work on stock pulleys and 178's that have a factory hub

 

Grip Grip, you are awesome. I think I won't be able to get the pulley on for Friday night at Steele. I have to arrange a tune as well so I guess I won't get in a hurry. I'm going to take a look at the car tomorrow and figure out what tool I will need. I've installed alot of standard harmonic balancers over the years and have never had a problem but I see where the "reluctor ring" on the flywheel could substain damage. More than likely I will get the tool you have. Man, I appreciate you wanting to help me out. If I had posted one day earlier, I could have been running hard at Alabama International. I might be out there anyway with my CAI just to get a baseline.

32crazy, I have never seen this other tool in posts. Looks like it would work good. I'll look at this one tomorrow as well. I might see you at Steele Friday.