didnt realize the 181/185 had a different style hub chris. no wonder i love my c3 so much!

 

It would be great if that tool worked on the LET/EC pulley's.... but we dont have the holes to match up for it....

Maybe EC could do a design change to add the holes..... that would certainly make the install easier (in my opinion)

 

If you look at the Repair Manual you will see where the tool fits and how to do the job correctly. The three teeth on the tool should give you a hint as to where it goes.
Take of the starter for starters.

6. Using Special Tool 9102 Flywheel Locking Tool (1), lock the
flywheel by inserting the tool into the starter opening.
7. Remove the vibration damper bolt (1) and the vibration
damper (2) from the crankshaft.

1. Inspect for oil leaks at the front crankshaft oil seal.

2. Replace the front crankshaft oil seal if signs of leakage are
present.
3. Inspect the sealing surface of the vibration damper. Smooth
any roughness with emery paper or an oil stone.
4. Measure the vibration damper bolt. Replace the bolt if
length exceeds 78 mm.
5. Position the vibration damper on the front of the crankshaft.
6. Lubricate the bolt threads with engine oil before installing.
7. Install the vibration damper bolt and tighten:
1st to 200 N·m (148 ft. lbs.),
Then retighten the bolt an additional 90° clockwise.

 

6. Lubricate the bolt threads with engine oil before installing

How many of you did this? (me)

 

of course i did this! it allows for a more accurate torque reading

 

Just a clarification on this statement for accuracy if I may.

Without oil the torque reading will be accurate, but the bolt will not be stretched the required amount. With oil the bolt will screw further into the crankshaft and stretch the bolt to the specified length and stress. The oil lessens the friction and allows the bolt to screw in further and thus stretches the bolt more.

The same torque reading is obtained but the bolt is under the specified stress. Not using oil results in a bolt that is a considerably below the stress point required. The bolt may stretch to a permanent new length, this is more likely when oiled and will need to be replaced as it has gone beyond its elastic limit and may fail when the the torque is re applied or subsequently, you then have to remove the broken thread from the crank shaft. You do not want the bolt breaking when the engine is running for obvious reasons.

Wheel lug bolts are torqued without oil as that is the specified way to do it to obtain the correct stress in the bolt/stud. Oiling would have the bolts/studs overstressed when using the specified torque asetting.

 

I will agree that lubricating a bolt will give the most predictable torque setting. And I wont argue for or against (in this case). I just assumed in this case that the oil might interfere with the threadlocking compound that comes on the bolt, so I didn't use any oil ....

worth mentioining, the front seal is a dry type and does not want any lube on it.
Chris

 

Never assume anything if you are not an expert and read the repair manual, you'll be glad you did.
I always read the instructions - after my wife tells me to, she's quite often too late though and I have beggered it up already.

 

the bolt is a one time use bolt if it exceeds 78mm. so in reality its best to use a new bolt each time . oiling the threads is right out of the srt-6 manual. if the oiling isnt done and the proper stretch isnt achieved then the torque on the bolt is incorrect.so i stand by my statement.
INSTALLATION
1. Inspect for oil leaks at the front crankshaft oil seal. 2. Replace the front crankshaft oil seal if signs of leakage are present. 3. Inspect the sealing surface of the vibration damper. Smooth any roughness with emery paper or an oil stone. 4. Measure the vibration damper bolt. Replace the bolt if length exceeds 78 mm. 5. Position the vibration damper on the front of the crankshaft. 6. Lubricate the bolt threads with engine oil before installing. 7. Install the vibration damper bolt and tighten:
• 1st to 200 N·m (148 ft. lbs.), • Then retighten the bolt an additional 90° clockwise.

see i do know how to read!

 

I guess that is what i get for think'n I'm an expert ...

both the SRT and mercedes documentation suggest oiling the bolt .... so on this, I must defer to your and their apparent greater wisdom.

On a side note, the Mercedes manual says NOT to use the flywheel locking tool on automatics (they want you to use the tool that 32Krazy! provided a link to) .... it is shame you cant use the mercedes recommended tool with the aftermarket pulleys. I talked to Lee at ASP some time ago about making a tool that would work for both factory and aftermarket pulleys (regardless of whom you get them from, he makes nearly all of the after market pulleys), but he said no one would buy it.

 

Not really, the torque reading is presumably accurate no matter what it says it is. You got the correct torque reading under the correct procedure. You could have got the same torque reading using the wrong procedure.
The procedure is laid out to get the correct stress in the bolt, there is a subtle difference to that and what you said.
I know that is being a bit picky, but if you had used the words 'bolt stress' instead of 'torque reading', or 'torque reading to give the correct bolt stress', you would have been absolutely correct.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 32crazy

see i do know how to read!

You also know how to cut and paste as I did the same instructions 5 posts back.

Forgive me I'm a bit sick and getting a bit(?) bored, nothing else to do.

We strive for total accuracy, no ambiguity.

 

[QUOTE=onehundred80] absolutely correct.

no absolute for me. im a scotch man!

 

[quote=32krazy!]LOL We share the same taste then, hope to have one with you one fine day. Sláinte

 

My front porch had a welcomed suprise today, more boost. Looked over the kit. Looks good but I've noticed there is not a idler pulley bushing that is mentioned in the older LET instructions. I've got the new idler pulley just no bushing. Does the new kit use a bushing or do you reuse one you take out of the old idler?

 

This method applies all the stress to the key way and key as this tool fits on the pulley, turning the bolt will put all the pressure on the key. Using the flex plate(or flywheel) lock will not put so much stress on the key. Turning the bolt will put only the force caused by friction under the bolt head on the key, not all the force.

I'd use the locking tool mentioned in the manual.

That's the way I see it anyway.

 

not quite. the crank pulley tool holds the pulley firmly in place while the socket goes thru the tool and allows the bolt to be torqued. the cheater pipe is used for the 90* final pull to help with the leverage. using the tool takes the stress off the keyway as the pulley is held in place. using the starter tool allows the stress to be applied to the keyway as the pulley is free to move as the bolt is tightened. i did the pulley install a few weeks ago and used rudy's pulley holder tool and it worked great. zero movement and i have been racing since with zero issues. for me and me only its the only way i would do a crank pulley. others may have success with the flywheel method but its not for me

 

I see your point. So which is best? I'm not sure now.
My way is best if you have to buy the tool as I'm pretty cheap.
But You Tube has samples of home made pulley tools and they could be cheap to make.

 

i guess that would depend on the pulley. oem or a 178 has the proper openings for the tool to work. 181/185 doesnt so i guess the flywheel is the only way to lock it up. of course the c3 or the new e/c s/c pulley eliminates all the issues! the tool rudy let me use was extremely heavy material and weighed a bunch. im a tool junky so buying them doesnt bother me and i am always willing to let someone use them if they need them. all they have to do is come by the garage and get them!

 

For anyone looking to one : MILLER TOOL 9102 FLYWHEEL LOCK 3.2L. CROSSFIRE VEHICLES | eBay

 

Thanks for the fast answers!

I have 3 fast questions i hope you can answer

1.Instead of the heat exchanger, iam thinking of getting an I/C Reservoir, can that help me get down the temperature instead?

2.The icpump is exchanged 2 years ago at MB, not for a johnson tho but will that make any difference?

3. Is it worth the "bang for the buck" this package, will i feel much more boost?

Thanks !!