Hi everyone,

In my SRT-6, a week ago I was driving locally about a 15 minute drive when all the sudden while I was sitting at a traffic light my Coolant Light at random came on. About 2 minutes later ( if that ) it shut off. I checked the temputure levels in the dash and it was just as normal with the stick being just a hair above the middle line. I got to my destination which was less than 5 minutes away.

Popped the hood, checked the coolant levels: everything looked good. Didn't notice any leaking inside the engine bay either as I took a real good look through everything as I waited for the car to get cooler.

Since then the light has been out... I have not added coolant as I know its a special kind needed and I don't want to damage the engine by putting the wrong stuff in but I did notice a few days ago it turned on again when I drove on the highway, stayed on again for a couple of minutes, temp looked good, got off, re-checked coolant levels, looked to be the same amount in there, again no leaks.

I decided to jump on here and do research on "Coolant Light".

Read about the 50 amp fuse being a possible failure which could eventually mean that the fan motor is going out which mean's I would need to replace the fan and possibly the 50 amp fuse. It can also possibly be a Fan Module ( I believe?? ), which I read in threads that apparently its a Recall but I'm not too sure if its an actual recall or just a TSB, if its a recall I'd assume that would be replaced under the emissions warranty I think??

And another thing could be is that coolant could be getting into the Intercooler if one notices their coolant disappearing but in this case it stays in the overflow tank just fine so I think we can cross that one out.

Possible tests I've done recent based on reading of this problem which seems quite common actually:

I turned the car on, put the AC on full blast ( which by the way, no ac problems, my AC blows ICE COLD! ), immediately I checked to see if the fan was blowing and it did. I shut the AC off and the Fan did shut off. I DID notice a slight noise from the fan when it did turn on at first!! I figured I'd mention that but it DID turn on and stayed on when I put the AC at high setting.

I checked the 50 amp radiator fan fuse and it appears that its never been changed. I do not see any wrench markings on it.

I noticed people mentioning that the fans are known to go in 08/2010 like ticking time bombs ( read: https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post518397 ) and I thought that was funny BECAUSE my car from reading history records on AutoCheck shows that my car was offically registered and on the road in 2006 and its one year later just happening to be same month too from when people said the fan would go lol.

Also, I figured I'd mention this but lately I have notice that when I drive on the highway, at times I feel like my IC Pump is starting to go because from time to come the Supercharger does not kick in once I hit the pedel, not all the time but sometimes I'll have to re-accelerate to get it to become a beast again, doesn't happen a lot but its noticable. Is it possible that coolant can be leaking from the IC pump? might need it to be replaced.

Coolant level is still at normal levels, light isn't permanently on, but comes on at random, not that often but its important to find out the culprit here!

Haven't added any coolant yet, wanted to get all of your input before I start messing with things!

 

Based on what you are seeing I would think it is most likely the fan starting to go bad (and you did hear noise when it turned on.)... the bearings go on and when they get bad enough can cause enough drag to blow the 50amp fuse... It 'could' be and intermittant fan controller, but your testing says it seems to be working fine.
You can pull the fan assembly out and spin the fans by hand and listen/feel for noise or roughness when turning. They should spin nice and freely/smoothly if good.

 

Hey Sweet .... I had this come up on my N/A about a month ago .... coolant light on, then off, then on ...... and I too checked everything that I could, after searching .... and then I read a post (and I think it was James1549) that said try filling the windshield fluid. No problem since, but I keep watching. I have no idea why this would influence the light coming on and off, but ....... just sayin .....
If you find out more, please post ... as will I

 

It's a design flaw in the floating coolant sensor. It happens randomly. The SLK people have been having this issue as well. Nothing to be worried about if you see there is no coolant leaking.

 

Spoken by a person with 2 SLKs ..........

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. I may take out the fan just to test it further.. the light really doesn't come on a whole lot to warrant any issue but I like to be safer than wait it out and then find some problem later because I didn't take it more serious from the get-go!

But yes so far no leaking and the coolant has stayed at the same level. Car drives real good, sometimes I'll notice the IC Pump acts alittle funny but overall its great.

Question, if the IC pump is going bad, can coolant leak from there?? curious here if this would maybe solve the problem as well if I was to change that. Might be a bit far fetched but might as well change it now if that is the OEM one... haven't checked yet.

 

If the IC pump fails you will not get a leak.... just no water circulation to the IC....

 

Thanks for that info Mike.

Okay, I have done more testing...

Today, while parked for 20 minutes with the AC blowing half way I let the car just sit to see if the light would come on by it self and just to hear the fan operation.

About 15 minutes while idling at 94 degree weather I did notice while never moving ANYWHERE I did notice the coolant light go on, and it STAYED ON while sitting still, and I notice the fan would go on and start to run at the high setting, for about 5-6 minutes until it would start to calm down... light never went off.

I thought it was weird that the fan was working at such a high setting considering I wasn't driving anywhere.... AC still blows ice cold.

When I went to leave while leaving everything on with the coolant light still on, I went ahead and popped the hood to check things out, coolant still in place, no leaks. Fan was blowing at high speed!! AC still blowing at half speed.

I got back into my car and took her for a drive around the block, almost immediately while driving about a half a block ( if that ) the coolant light SHUT OFF, did not come back on the entire time.

Okay, this is where you guys now tell me what you think!

I did read online when I checked for TSB's and Recalls, this did come up regarding the cooling system:

Radiator cooling fan motor may have been improperly assembled. Customer satisfaction notification e19 radiator cooling fan module
　
TSB: 30-Mar-06 - E19 - Campaign - Cooling Fan and or Motor Assembly Replacement


Might be worth a shot taking to the Dealer?? Your comments would be appreciated.

 

I had the same problem. Its more then likely ur fan or fan controller. Once I replaced my fan controller my coolant light went away.

 

If during this whole period the Temp Gauge sat rock solid at the 1/2 way mark, or slightly above, that would be a good sign and eliminate alot of grief.

Also the fact that you don't see coolant anywhere is nice.

If you got Warranty left, couldn't hurt to go with the Fan and Module, in my opinion...

 

"Fan was blowing at high speed!! AC still blowing at half speed."

When the A/C is turned on, the cooling fan will blow at high speed. This fan does not only draw air to cool the radiator but also draws air to cool the condenser in front of the radiator (the fan has double duty). The A/C fan blows over the evaporator and only moves air over it into the cabin. The A/C compressor works at the same pressure no matter what the speed of the HVAC fan (half speed or whatever), and when the compressor is on the cooling fan will go to high speed. The sensor could be bad in the bottle like one has said---also the tsb that you stated could be the problem---both make sense. Whatever the problem is I would get it fixed because you do not need to become "numb" to this light. If something was to stop working you would not know because you would just say "it comes on every now and then....." and just blow the "real" warning off!!! Good luck---Jimmy

 

Great information, thanks Jimmy and to you all, of course!! thank you

So far I've spoken to a Certified Mercedes Benz Mechanic at the local Mercedes Dealer who basically said that my problem most likely lies in the Coolant Bottle Sensor, that they replace those "all the time"..

He said if my fan is turning on fine that it shouldn't be the cause "just yet", he said the fan module shouldn't be bad because it gives the signal to turn the fan on when I turn the settings on the console for AC, and since there is no leaking, he doesn't believe its the Intercooler. But he does think its the Sensor, he said hes about 99% sure on that.... nice guy, told me this while chit chatting the other day with a group of the guys at the dealership after they were SHOCKED to see an SRT6 roll in, most of the guys had NO IDEA it has a Supercharged hand built Mercedes Benz AMG engine in there!! lol

I was having a good time..

Okay, so I need the parts numbers for the Sensor for the coolant bottle, anyone have it for our car?

I'd appreciate the help.

 

Delete this reply please...

 

Delete this post

 

Did more research, read the Service Manual. After realizing the "Floating Coolant Sensor" is actually the "Coolant Level Sensor", I decided to call up the Dealer to confirm, told them the sensor I needed should be mounted on the underside of the Coolant Resolver Bottle., asked if that was the Coolant Level Sensor just to confirm after reading the Service Manaul, they said yes after looking into it.

They wanted to charge $29 and some change plus tax for this sensor, I went ahead and did research online and found the site below for $15.95 plus $5.50 shipping, basically $21 bucks for the sensor but I also have a coupon code you can put in when you order, where they give you a 10 % discount on the entire order. Put the code RPCART

So your order will be just under $20 bucks shipped for the sensor.


Here is the part directly to order if anyone needs for the future: http://www.racepages.com/brand/hella...el_sensor.html

Comes with 12 Month / 12,000 mile warranty.

 

Update: I received the Sensor today! only took 3 days to receive since I placed my order! I also received yesterday some K&N Air Filters that I just installed today. I plan to use a retraction pump to get the coolant out of the bottle so I can save it when I re-install the Coolant Level Sensor, this will help having to buy new coolant. Looks like an easy installation really! Thought about filming it for everyone, I'll see if I can get my camera and record a how-to video.


Just incase, the instructions for removal and re-install is in Chapter 24 in the service manaul, Cooling Systems section, in the SRT6 manual.

 

When your coolant light comes on pull over and open up the hood if the fan is turning slowly or not at all its your fans intermittent control module. This happened to mine and the issue was fixed after the intermittent control module was replaced.

 

I went ahead and installed the Coolant Level Sensor today, unfortuntely, I didn't get to record a video because my batteries were too low on power. I thought I had enough juice left in them but that wasn't the case. After the installation I took the vehicle on a 30 mile drive on the highway and I have not had any indication of a low coolant light come on since ( knock on wood ).

So far so good... will update if anything changes.

 

Another Update!

Its been almost a week now since the Coolant Level Sensor has been replaced. Since that time frame, I took a trip to my hometown of Miami ( which btw, I plan to move back to quite soon! ) and while taking the 135 mile trip, plus driving around Miami and then heading back to Fort Myers a couple of days later I can say I have Not had any Low Coolant Light Come on!

I think its safe to say that the Coolant Level Sensor was indeed the culprit. I also refilled the coolant system with the recommended Anti-Freeze as stated in the Service Manual which let me say is expensive ( almost $20 bucks at the Dealer for one gal ), if anyone needs it for the future its Mopar Antifreeze / Coolant 5 Year / 100,000 Mile, MS-9769.

Since that time frame, I also installed twin K&N Air Filters and I also did a Throttle Body Reset and I have to admit, any of that lag that I felt at highway speeds from time to time when I thought it could be the IC Pump are long gone! I have EXCELLENT acceleration now, all the time. I also notice that with the K&N Air Filters, it feels like the throttle acceleration is stronger, at least more HP for sure.. I also noticed doing the throttle reset helps quite abit too!

No coolant leaks of any kind. Everything is solid thus far. I also feel like I have a new beast again, she just drives so much better. I am happy!

 

The fan replacement was a recall, and therefore should still be valid even without warranty. It was notification E19 for CDD2E190 fan for my roadster. It was already done on my SRT6 when I bought it used.