I'd go with removing the siren module.
( it is under the plastic cowl that is around the wipers )

 

As stated above the siren is the problem, and that is the part that should be changed. Unless you have had a problem with the security/pump module in the trunk I would not waste my money on it.
See the thread where 'Cricket on Crack' is mentioned.
Here is a thread and it is like your problem, it is a bit confusing but the OP is finally asked to say what the problem was and it was the siren itself. The OP originally said the problem was fixed and said the thread was closed, he was finally coaxed into saying what the problem was. After all the time people had spent on trying to fix the problem he was just not going to ay what caused the problem.

 

I have just stumbled on this thread and have to respectfully disagree with the shape of the upper bead of RTV. The shape is convex and it should be concave so that water does not remain in a pool but runs out. The OEM seal was, when it was installed properly, a convex shape. The OEM seal separated from the sticky membrane and extruded itself out of the gap it was compressed in.
My later thread goes into this in more detail.

 

onehundred80,

If you will note, the convex shape is due to the shape of the actual fiberglass, NOT just the way it was drawn in the picture. You are welcome to TRY to make it concave, but it will not match the fiberglass to steel mating surfaces.

 

The seal was not on just a single face at the top, I studied all the pictures I could find on it and that was my conclusion. Some of the pictures show the adhesive tape on the original faces and the seal in a different place.
The OEM seal was/is a seal with a sticky backing and where the seal is on two faces the constant pressure moves the seal material off the adhesive backing into the area where there is less pressure IE. a bigger gap. This is similar to pinning an object to a wall with double sided tape, the object slowly creeps on the tape due to the weight.
In some cases the tape was applied in the wrong place at the factory.
It is a very awkward place to put an effective seal, putting a permanent seal is wrong I think, if anything goes wrong or the seal is not correct the first time the two pieces may be inseparable.

See my thread on the subject. CLICK
Also see JesseJamesSRT6's post with pics showing the path of the original seal and where the seal ended up causing leaks.

 

Still trying to find cricket on crack. My siren has been weak for years no on my 04. Yesterday the fob wouldn't open the car. Opened with the key and the alarm lights started. It didn't stop with the fob or inserting the key. When it stopped I started the car but it quickly died. Then it would not turn the starter at all. Saw in another post to remove fuse #9 to disable the domelight, horn and alarm. The light went off, but the horn and the alarm both still worked. Replaced the fob batteries, no help. Had no tools at work so I called a tow truck. He tried to jump it to no avail. At home I found a post and decided t follow the suggestion to take the 10mm to the negative and disconnected and reconnected the battery. I could not start now since the battery was low. Put on the charger for a few minutes and it started .Drove 38 mi to work where it restarted fine. Did not lock the car. 10 hours later it started and drove home fine. I am going to try replacing the siren next. So glad all of you are there to help figure out these issues. The local dealer quoted $8-900 to replace the SKREEM but it seems the siren is the problem from what I have read here in the forum.

 

I am having the same problem and I want to take alarm siren out to replace the batteries inside it. When I remove it from under plastic cover under wiper whats going to happen ? will the car still start, doors lock, ect. I need to get a look inside to see if board is corroded and it may be out of car for a while..

 

the car will start fine without the siren an the door locks will work fine

 

Thank you, I'm not going to be driving it but I will need to move it around a few times.

 

The siren is out, seems like other than the alarm I have not lost anything. I'm not seeing any problems after removal. Am I missing something ???

 

nope all you lose is the alarm

 

My husband's 05 crossfire is having issues with the alarm going off by itself randomly after its been driven in the rain a lot. So I am suspecting that it has to do with water leaking in through the trunk into the module back there, as stated in previous posts. My question is, when I went to open the door the other day and drive it to work (he is currently out to sea), that's what tripped the alarm and the car would not start. The only way to get it to stop was to let it run its course and not lock the doors or open them again. Will pulling the number 9 fuse as suggested in previous posts keep the alarm from randomly sounding off again while it sits in the garage waiting for him to get back from sea? Or am I stuck having to get it towed to a dealership to have them replace the module before he gets back? Thanks in advance for any help anyone has!

A few notes I would like to add: The key fob has no battery in it, hasn't for a year due to this problem happening before, but resolving itself when the weather warmed up and moisture in the trunk dried up on its own. The car had been manually locked and unlocked up until this point. Also, now that the alarm has tripped, when I manually unlock the driver door it is the only thing that unlocks. The passenger door and the trunk remain locked. Since I've left the driver door unlocked and haven't opened the door again, the alarm hasn't sounded. Only when I open the door.

Thanks again for any help!

 

Sounds like your diagnosis is correct. Pull the #9 fuse. It will kill the alarm but you cannot lock the doors. If your locks are getting wonky, and you have replaced the battery , then the security array in the trunk is your likely suspect.

 

Just for some clarification, cause I'm not experienced at working on cars, lol. By pulling the number 9 fuse and disabling the alarm, will I be able to start the car and drive it around afterwards? Cause right now it won't let me after the alarm runs it's course. I'd hate to have the battery die from sitting in the garage not getting cranked up now and then the rest of the time he's gone. Also, will this unlock the trunk so the modules are accessible at a later date?

 

Yes and Yes, I drove mine for 9 days without the fuse in.

 

Awesome!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! My neighbors will be happy I found a temporary fix!!

 

Update.. there is no number 9 fuse anywhere in his fuse box on the driver side. I don't know what else to do now, I still can't open the door without the alarm going off!

 

Sure there is. Just relax a little. Open the hood all the way/ Black box against the firewall on drivers side / remove lid / left side of box as you face the window starts @25 or 26 / the last fuse in that row is 9, the one before it is 8.

26
25
24
23
22
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9


Just remove it gently with a pair of pliers, preferably needlenose.

 

Definitely not how it's set up from what I looked at. There's a bunch of 10's, 17's, 24's and 25's, and some 7's as well as 5's. Maybe I'm looking at the wrong fuse box?? I'll endure the alarm again tomorrow when I get off work since it'll be a decent time for the neighbors by then. Maybe there's another fuse box over there that I'm not seeing that has those fuses in them

 

Your looking at the fuse values!! 15 amp fuses, 10 amp fuses etc..... Take an LED flashlight and shine it on the plastic by the fuses.

Your going to feel silly.

Unless they changed something.

The #'s are NOT on the fuses. Are on the fuse box.