That's right. I'm trying to eliminate the possibilities before I get stuck. Here's the chain of events. 3 weeks ago I got a O2 sensor cell. I had just installed the wide band the day before and AFR's went crazy for a minute. Cleared it without writing down exactly what it was and it hasn't come back and my AFR's have been normal since the episode. I started having an occasional "long cranking" episodes. It happened first several months ago, a week ago, and at the race track on Sunday. The Sunday long crank was a long one .... about 8 seconds. The others were around 4 seconds. A few times this year the key fob didn't want to open or lock the car. A few minutes later all normal. Every now and then I have to be standing right beside the car for the Fob to work. Most of the time it works from 20' or so in distance. Today about 500 yards down the street from home the car quit while braking. Now that has never happened. It was on a very narrow street so I pulled all the way over, really worried about curbing my Forgestars, put the car in park and it started right up. Drove to the supermarket, parked the car and it wouldn't lock the door, or open the other one with the Fob. I left it open, did my shopping and when I came out it still wouldn't open the trunk so I put the food in the passenger seat, started the car and went home. Got home and the Fob opens and locks normally. Now I'm sure something is slowly dying. Could it be the Fob battery? RCM no start issue? Crank sensor? I have the "racing" battery in the car and will put the white elephant back in until the next race. I don't think the cell is related but what do I know. Give me some clues to follow so I don't thrash around helplessly. The spare key will be with me from now on to see if it works when mine won't. My guess is the Fob battery. I hate to fix things that aren't broken.

Les

 

Les, I dont think your FOB has anything to do with your problem.... my FOB acts similar to yours except I always have to be close to the car for it to work. I have no other issues with my car.

Since you are getting the long crank and no start I would think it is the crank position sensor..... you should be getting a P0335 CEL...

 

The long crank has happened 4 times in all I think. The last one at the track got my attention as did the dying driving down the road. The crank sensor makes some sense. I want to wait to be sure but don't want to suffer the possible consequences of waiting for a total failure. The only cells I've had since new are from a manifold leak last year and the O2 cell that I wish I hadn't erased recently. I'll wait a little longer to see if a cell pops up.

Les

 

If it is the crankshaft sensor it wont hurt to drive it at all.... it could leave you stuck somewhere unexpectedly... but hey, you live on an island... how bad could it be?????

 

Mike, I almost died laughing!

I was thinking CPS also for the crank/dying issue. The lock problem might be the FOB battery, but may just be an anomaly... Mine has random distance issues also.

 

With all of the different issues you list, how old is you vehicle battery and how many miles on your car?

 

My car has 9000 miles. I have 2 batteries. A white Mopar full size battery that was installed in July of 2008 and the Shirken that I use for racing. Both are fully charged at the moment with the baby battery in the car. The issue with the AFR's was when the full size battery was in the car. The last hard start and dying around the corner was with the baby battery. The car has always started BTW.

Plan of attack is to use the spare key for a while and see if solves anything at all. If I have a repeat hard start or Fob problem I'll swap in the full size battery and retest. If it happens with the spare Fob and full size battery ...... it's time for a CPS, I guess.

Les

 

I know you can lock the doors manually, but I've never noticed if there's a key operated lock on the outside of the doors. Is there?

 

Yes, on the drivers side only.

 

I also have long start issues with my Shirken installed, fully charged or not. Not sure if the little battery has the CCA's to get the engine to the correct rotation for starting everytime.

I have had door locking/unlocking issue from time to time. New FOB battery and a cushion between the battery and lid to keep the battery tightly in place solved the problem. Next time you notice the FOB not working try squeezing the battery door or remove the door and hold the battery tightly in place with your thumb and see if this fixes your FOB issue. You may need to adjust the prongs for the battery in the FOB to make good contact.

 

shuriken bt20 has 850 cca. more than enough to start the car quickly. i have the shuriken and have never had any issues with long starts

 

The last couple of days have been uneventful. Baby battery still in the car and using the backup key. It's opening and locking the doors at a greater distance than the other key. No stalling or hard starting ....... yet. Since the problem is once in a blue moon I may have to wait awhile before I draw any conclusions.

Les

 

Les, just tell your car that if it doesn't behave you are going to move to MN!

 

Yeh, that little battery would last 10 minutes up here.