I currently have robs dual cai and eurocharges new tune and I'm topping out around 165 - 170. What is it going to take to get me to 180?

There's something magical about the 3 mile a minute mark :-)

 

Contact forum member "rcompart" bet he has something that can help!

Where's the video?

 

Are you lowered? That will help some if your not.

Les

 

no wind..................lol

 

Lol I have Rudy's number, but I'm not interested in a V8. I'm not far from my goal, even though every additional mph will require more horsepower. If it's not attainable though with the SRT motor I'll be very sad. :-( I don't want to molest my car with a turbo setup.

I'm thinking about C3 and mani's and exhaust. Plus retune ;-)

Time frame would be fall of 2012. After all I've got to get it done before the end of the world.

Parts needed would be in this order,
Oil sending unit **mine is leaking :-(
Koni shocks
Oil catch can
Tighed1's super cooler ;-)
C3 pulley or 178
Full Exhaust
Retune
Try to run to 180 (probably post spring 2012 Dragon)
If I fail,
Tweaked stock intake manifolds (thermal coated of course)
Retune and try again

Hopefully I want need the adjustable fuel kit

 

As Rob stated, and I wasn't thinking, you don't need to worry about fuel running a Code 3....so, you can mark that off your list...having been to 160, conditions such as wind, road surface, tire pressure can affect your results accordingly....you could go visit DJ...and just draft him up to 180.....save fuel, and accomplish your goal all in one....lol

 

LMAO! Doc, you are too funny!

 

You might consider the downpipes if they allow you to run with them open, if not don't do it. I have some Koni's for sale!

Les

 

nick how much road are you using to accomplish this? if you want 180 in measured mile you need approx 450 rewhp . c3 cooling manis and exhaust will get you close but remember the fasted logged time so far is brianbrave with 169mph. you have a long ways to go!

 

Good luck, you say you are not far from your goal but 10-15mph is a loooooong way to go.
To minimize the HP increase required you need to lighten the car and dump every possible ounce and that includes going on a diet. ( )
The front of the car needs to be smoothed out as well. Get good tires, check for loose bolts and check your insurance.
Don't do this at home folks, try Bonneville.

 

So here's the question. Is 180 attainable without dropping weight, with 3 straight miles?

 

I can tell you I did 160 in a standing start to 1 mile, it took me another mile to get down to highway speed, and would have taken another half mile to have come to a stop....now I quess I could have just jammed the brakes but, I coasted down stab braking a little at a time....I think it would take at least another mile, or 2 miles total to reach 180, if you can at all...and you had better have a 2 mile shut down allowance in there if you do obtain it...and I am looking for a safe place to do this, but haven't found one so far....no old air force bases around here long enough...but I am keeping an eye out on a new interstate construction that is going on south of me....lol

 

We had an unfinished highway (#410) near here some years back and a kid got on it and floored it. As I said it was unfinished and he found an unfinished bridge. Game over.

 

Dropping weight is cheaper than HP gains.

[quote=oledoc2u]I can tell you I did 160 in a standing start to 1 mile, it took me another mile to get down to highway speed, and would have taken another half mile to have come to a stop...[quote]
You need to fix your brakes.

 

that wouldn't be good, but I would never try a high speed run on any surface I had not checked out completely, meaning all but walking it....debris, chuckholes, anything that would come back to bite you....but I understand what you are saying....

13dog. As Dave and others know, when at that speed, 160 and above the dynamics change such, that I don't know if the car is capable....I done this in the roadster, which I believe the coupes dynamics are much better. The roadster was still solid and still handling just fine...but without the proper setup, I just dont' know....our friend out west have a better idea, since they have some long stretches of road that are flat...

 

You really need the pulley and mani's to breath at the top end!! lowering it, turning down the mirrors and speed tape on the front end would help. Weight help acceleration more then top speed but the 14 lb battery helps. Delete the rear cats and resonator for HP gains and 30 lbs off. Raise tire pressure to 40, and wait for a tail wind!!

Good luck!

 

Let me add this to the story since everyone wants to talk weight dog.....I had my buddy with me to witness the run and two deputies, one w/ radar, one w/ lidar...shooting me....it was a little windy, but not bad. I had just installed the code3...no tire pressure change, no tape, had a stock grille at the time that was cutout, and a single cai....so, who knows, maybe she will do 180...the coupe I have now in comparison, has the modded the manis, dual cai and all...so, can't wait to give it a try for a mile....when the time is right.... getting rid of my buddy's 220lbs would have to help, right? LOL>......

 

Less weight helps acceleration true, but it takes power to move an object and the less weight the less power is needed to move and accelerate its speed, thats simple mechanics.
Put this engine in the Abrams tank and it would not move it too far or fast.
Take an Aprilia motor cycle, 1 litre engine, 180 hp and 180 mph top speed. What is the bikes advantage? Weight and air resistance. Also the engine and gearing are capable of that speed.

 

Try this link and start plugging in information.
I just plugged in the info from my 1 dyno run and it spit out the exacty same HP figure as show on my graph. It said I had a theoretical top speed of 167mph.

http://vlsicad.ucsd.edu/~sharma/Potpourri/perf_est.html
http://vlsicad.ucsd.edu/~sharma/Potpourri/perf_est.html

Also, if you are trying different top speed calculators on the net you may also need the following:
Cd: .37
Frontal area: 20.56 sqft
Drag area(CdA): 7.6069 sqft

Here is the gearing info for the SRT 6 you will need to plug in:


Transmission Gear Type 5 Speed Automatic w/ Overdrive Final Drive 3.07:1 1st Gear Ratio 3.6:1 2nd Gear Ratio 2.19:1 3rd Gear Ratio 1.41:1 4th Gear Ratio 1:1 5th Gear Ratio 0.83:1

 

If your using your speedo then its not accurate at high speeds.

Anything that creates more power in the very top of the RPM will help. "big" Pulleys kill top end power on very long pulls.

As stated Intake manifolds and a dump exhaust will help. Any porting/matching, polishing type stuff helps in the very top rpms.

I broke 180(based off of speedo) with a 178 pulley but dear god was it a long pull. after 165 you can count each MPH slowly . It was a 1 time deal and i probably had a good tail wind helping me. A good tail wind helps a bit.