IC Pipe Tester

you will want 3", be careful as i have seen the testers blow off and punch a hole thru a garage drywall wall. dont get your face in front of it!

 

Yeah but the schrader valve on there is lame. You would have to keep going back and adding air. I used a compressor male fitting, then leave it connected to air hose from the tank and slowly turn up the regulator.

 

Agreed. I like the valve and gauge on my tester. It gives better control; right there, where you need it.

 

This is a mediocre video I took from my phone of my Crossfire attempting to start. The ignition ticks for several seconds before the car finally starts. Can someone confirm that this is a fuel pump problem? Seems like the only possible issue would be not getting the fuel it needs from the initial prime by the fuel pump when I twist the key to the ON position. The battery is brand new as of a month ago. Tough to hear the ignition with all the beeping, but I turn the key over at 3 seconds into the video:

Delayed start - YouTube

 

It could be a few things, and would help if you had a fuel pressure gauge at the rail, but I'll guess you may need one of these.... Fuel In-Line Check Valve Good luck. Try turning key to on, but don't crank. Wait a couple of seconds, or turn off and then back on, wait 2 seconds, then crank. Just make sure you don't have an external fuel leak anywhere before anything else. Follow the service manual procedure for proper fuel pressure leak diagnosis.

Edit: If that link doesn't bring up the check valve by itself, go back and click it a second time; it should then work.

 

Thanks for the info, I just tried that turning it on, off, and back on technique. It cranks about a second quicker that way but is still taking solid 3 seconds to fire up. And it's a sputtering start, to boot. The car only has 16k miles on it, so it must just be the age of the fuel pump that's causing it to weaken..
How tough is the install for that in-line check valve? Would the SL55 fuel pump be a more thorough fix, or would it just be overkill? I love the car, but seems like every couple months the SRT always requires more money spent on a part to tweak it back into peak operating condition

 

It may be problem other than the check valve. It could also be an injector leaking fuel by, or RCM solder issue (search for that one), or CPS, or ?? In the SRT service manual is a good description of how to isolate the pressure loss to one or the other. IMO, I would check that out before you start spending money on fuel pump replacement, even though that may be just exactly what you end up doing. The check valve is something you may want anyway if you upgrade the pump later to the Walbro, which is what many have done.

 

Hey Max, got your leaks fixed and bolts figured out? Where you able to use studs? Did you find any other leaks?