TunaGlove, isn't that a euphemism for vagina?

 

Hahaha!!!! 10

 

Now help me figure out this leak.

 

I am only getting 20psi when it's cold (60). At 70F I only hit 19or so. 18 could be fine if it's hot out. For a leak check I just glued some Home Depot PVC with a cap. Tap and thread a fitting for your air compressor and clamp it on the T/B. You gotta clamp off a couple vac. lines and the 2 PCV hoses (AA battery fits perfect LOL). Slowly pump the engine to 15 or so and listen. Some air will come out the dipstick and oil filler. Use a hose to your ear to listen around, higher than 15psi and my tester pops off the T/B and scares the crap out of you....

 

Tunas method is exactly how a bunch of us with turbo diesel trucks (another forum) chase down leaks. I doubt the dealer has any better way with any better results than how Tunas method works. One thing I do in addition to listening with hose is use a small spray bottle of soapy water and look for the bubbles. The dealers will only take you for a ride with this diagnosis, unless you have a dealer friend connection.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I think I'll give the Tuna-method a shot.

 

I fabricated the PVC pipe, cap, and fitting last night. Tonight I'll try to figure out which vacuum lines need to be clamped and plug the hoses going to the catch can. Hopefully I'll find the leak once and for all.

 

Good luck! You need to post a picture of your invention, well if it works. Keep us posted.

Les

 

Here's a picture of the leak tester I purchased for my turbo diesel. I'm going to neck it down to also use for the 6 if I need to. Definitely cheaper to do the Tuna D.I.Y. method. This tester also comes in a 3" size as well. http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=669

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=607

 

Thanks for the pic... I can make me one of those...

 

I'm sure you'd have a few takers if you decided to make more than a few of them. Knowing you don't have a boost leak............ almost priceless.

 

Just the two on top of the snout. Put a little loop across them. The brake booster has a check valve. The Evap valve will be closed. Compare your compressor psi to your boost gauge. Open your oil filler.

 

Move the portable compressor or use long air hose and get away from the compressor so you can hear the leaks over the compressor cycling noise. It helped me a lot doing this, just my $.02

 

I didn't make it over 5psi before I found a leak on the passenger plenum. I tried to remove the plenum but stripped a bolt head during the process. Also, apparently I cross-threaded one when I installed it so I have that to deal with also. I'll be installing threaded rod (studs) as soon as I find them.

By the way, the bolts were aftermarket hex bolts.

 

I don't think you will be able to slide the back of the manifold up to the Y-pipe with the studs keeping it straight. Try it though, that is a really good idea. Some chrome acorn nuts, hell even SPIKES would look pretty cool LOL!

Hmmmmmm.........

 

If I put the manifold in place prior to threading the stud I'd be good to go. The problem is when/if one won't easily thread and the others are in.

F#*& it, I'm just going to weld the manifolds in place.

 

Oh yeah, I gotta try these LOL!!!

Bolt Boys! - Baby Spike Nuts! (Powered by CubeCart)

 

I wasn't planning on blinging it.



I really just want to stop the leaking and stripping of the bolt heads. Chances are I'll just go with hex bolts. This way I can use a conventional socket to tighten the bolts.

Do you know where I can find the bolt specs?

 

I don't know the specs, but would the SS set that Needswings sells work for you?
http://www.needswings.com/Products.a...1-885537264510

 

I have not had any problems with the bolts losening, or the mainfolds leaking, or striping out bolt heads and stuff. You guys are doing something wrong. I am constantly taking these on and off messing with my motor/ fuel stuff.

I use an OEM gasket brand new, every time. I spray the gasket with Copper Seal Spray on each side. Let it dry, then assemble and torque evenly in small steps to 100 inch pounds. DONE!