Thanks for the info, but I'm not looking to spend $300 on the pump. The one I found was $100, but they lost it. I really hate to spend that much money on trial-and-error purchases. It would be a different story if I knew for a fact it would resolve the issue.

 

Fuel pump has arrived.

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what's the box? A relay or resistor?

 

looks like a pressure sensor???.... 5 bar???? I wouldnt think it should need a relay

 

A goodly amount of the leaning is due to the manifold pressure retarding the fuel flow thru the injector, so raising the rail fuel pressure a few pounds will solve the leaning. An adjustable regulator and fuel filter is all that is needed and that is available from Rob.

I have been testing a much bigger intake TB which has had me talking to myself (BORING) and finally it seems to be working to get more grunt and low end torque for what else autoctrossing to overcome the lag in the throttle. Having the benefit of adjusting the pressure is a god send when your so far off the stock fuel map, for getting it to operate normally.........Woody

 

I'd love to have Rob's setup, but it isn't an option due to $$. I found the SL55 fuel pump for $75, so I bought it.

I recently got a revision from Eurocharged and now I'm in the 12's (A/F) at redline, but I'm fat everywhere else. With that being said, I'm only seeing 18psi now instead of 20psi when I was super lean, so I can't claim the revision was a cure.

I either have a small boost leak or the 30-40 degree temperature change outside has resulted in the 2 psi drop. Either way, I may be lean again once it cools outside or the manifold gaskets are replaced.

 

I went back to the stock type gaskets. With the cork gaskets the torque goes from 10 ft. lbs. to 5 after a few heat cycles even using locktite. Then I tighten them down to 10 again and the next thing I know they're leaking from being over tightened.

My revised Eurocharged tune has me at 11.8 to 12 at WOT with 17 lbs. of boost. I'm thinking I may be a little rich at WOT but that's better than lean. I haven't seen this lean issue that so many have, I guess I'm not modded enough ...... yet. I hope the 55 pump solves the problem for you.

Les

 

Air temp is major buzz kill for boost, see da:
International Standard Atmosphere - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Woody
My boost is lower due to lower restriction and crossover breathing of intakes

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...m/DSCN3051.JPG

Thats old picture , youd be amazed what the intake is now.............more when it s tested on the track and dyno. Woody

Please see my albums for more info and a few suprises..........Woody

 

Seriously? Thats the 1st I heard of that... guess I better check mine since I just installed the cork ones a few weeks ago.

 

I have been getting an occasional P0505 error and have found that my valve covers bolts are loosening too... I have 6mm phenolic spacers and NW cork gaskets on both sides of the spacers. But they have been on for probably 1 1/2 years or more now. I have a new set of gaskets waiting for me to take the plenums off and do some port matching........ I have been torquing my bolts to 85in/lbs and blue loctite.

Oldly, the two middle outside bolts dont seem to loosen.. on either plenum.....

 

I've gotta be doing something wrong but when it's obvious that I have a leak and remove the manifolds, I see that the gaskets were over tightened and crushed. When I have a leak, part throttle inputs result in a slight bog then surge. WOT is fine. I have the stainless steel bolts and I'm thinking the locktite blue is over heating at the track or the combination of the stainless bolts/aluminum parts is causing the loosening. So what to do when they loosen up? I've been re torquing to 10 ft. lbs. which ruins the gaskets. I'm still wondering why this is happening. If the bolts loosen up again, I'm planning to reuse a mix of the factory bolts and stainless bolts to see what happens. I can't explain but I suspect the different expansion rates of the stainless bolts and aluminum parts holds the key and not the gaskets themselves.

Les

 

I did mine once and used blue rtv on gaskets. Keep tightning cork and youll cut it. Actually Iam a fan of the stock paper as you can not crush it. I have spacers with paper on both sides. you can keep tightning the cork after a while till it is mush. Woody

 

HAHAHA, you can lead a horse to water....

 

What do you mean by paper woody? The stock gaskets aren't paper they seem to be some form of metal.

Does that mean you DON'T use cork gaskets?

I'm not to happy with the cork either just like Les is saying they always get loose and if you keep on tightening them they break up!

John.

 

Permatex Copper Seal Spray? I don't like having to scrape tons of crap off the manifolds. But if my latest gaskets don't work I'll cave in and use it.

Les

 

I have the black ones , been a while so I thought they were paper.Woody

 

[quote=waldig]

https://www.crossfireforum.org/galle...m/DSCN3051.JPG

Hey, does Rob sell that bracket that you have on the drivers side CAI tube to help stabilize the TB mount / connection from engine torque rotation? I would buy one of these if they were available. I have gone along with your idea about no hose clamps on the front of tubes and using a small dab of silicone grease to allow for flex movement. Thanks.
Sorry for the threadjack GripGrip. Bob

 

I took 5/8" by 1/8" aluminum, bent in a bench vice and hammered it for 90 degree bend. Drilled holes and done, except for the buffing that I like to do with mothers aluminum wheel polish.Woody

I love the copper coat gasket material. Cork is ok if you torque it and leave it dont retorque it or it will cold flow and mush out.

Woody again.

 

comes right off with solvent.

 

I can't catch a break.

The damn SL55 fuel pump is DOA.