It might be .1-.2 higher that far back but not 1.0 afr difference. 13+afr is way too high at 30psi. Most high boost applications are running closer to high 11's AFR. Try and get that Wideband before the first cat to get the most accurate results.

Have you installed and EGT meter on that car? im curious what you EGT's are at. What ait temps are you getting after the turbo and or supercharger? Twincharging can cause air intake charges to get really hot.



Also how are you not getting Max manifold pressure codes did you clamp the sensor or upgrade the stock ecu?

Also congrats on getting it all together! about time someone twincharged there srt. I get frustrated when i hear so many say the supercharger is the bottleneck. All it does is compress at at a ratio based on RPMs. If you compress the air before the SC it will compress it even further at the same ratio.

 

I can put the wideband befor the cats but the backpressure from the turbo would cause it to show me ritcher then i am wouldnt it?

dont have a EGT yet but the turbo is all the way back where the resinator was so the piping should cool it down as if it had a intercooler I also have a meth kit im going to install wheni get the chance.

I havent been getting any max manifold pressure codes..I did when i started but i beleave the computer compinsated, SRTPowa got a Inmotion full custome chip tune (for the stacked pully upgrade) on it befor i baught it from him not sure if that would have anythang to do with it though

thanks for your support

 

Eric,
Way to go man, I'm following your project VERY closely!!!. I’d much rather do something like this then install a V8 , adding additional weight to the front naa no thanks!
VW now has a dual Charge system in production and I’ve seen other cars around, There is a blue Scion TC running a dual Charge system here in New Orleans using a TRD supercharger kit with a turbo putting out around 500HP. I remember a Bonneville Flats car set up with a 8-71 supercharger with a twin turbo banks system running in the late 70's or early 80’s also So it can definitely be done!

Keep up the great work and please keep us informed!

Now for the injector service and the lightening of our wallets (we all seem to be dealing with this lately), I just got an answer from Chris Mills @ Deatschwerks about their injector service and I would recommend the Dynamic service from them @ 29.00 each and call it a day UNLESS you need to increase the flow of your injectors. The service includes: Pre-Testing your injectors for a before and after comparison, Fuel Pressure Calculations and Performance Calculations to define the limits of your fuel system.
They also have 550cc injectors available around $350-400. they are a Drop-in fitment and flow balanced to within 2% of the set. I’ve read several great reviews on the MB forums about them.

BTW. A flow report is included with both the injector service or a new set of injectors, so you know exactly what you have and is a great tool when tuning.
http://www.deatschwerks.com/

I've been using RC Engineering http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Injector-ProCal-Service-P44C0.aspx since my Supra days and I have been happy with them for more extensive race work but for the money use Deatschwerks and with the savings buy other more pressing items.

Did I notice a performance difference? Yes and No The car feels stronger and WOT pulls really hard from 80mph till I let up plus it runs far smoother than before when tooling around town. Unfortunately I haven't had the time to get another Dyno Session. I really wanted the piece of mind knowing that I'm not going to damage the engine because of a faulty injector, I've read about a few guys that scarred the cylinder walls because of improper atomization and dumping fuel. I’ve also been around enough Nitro bikes when they grenaded because of faulty injectors / fuel systems loading up. It's also nice knowing I'll never go above 80% cycle duty no matter what.

Later on down the road!

Edited to add information about the Scion...

 

Wow. This is great. I am planning to do the same installation on my car.
What is your IAT at 3rd gear. Are you using only the stock Intercooler ?
Or are you using two Intercooler ? Its hard to understand the photo.
Is it possible to unplug the S/C, the magnetic clutch, and only run the Turbo when the pressure is enuf from the Turbo. Like 1,5 bar.
Well done. Nice work.
/Göran

 

There is an air valve right after the core support on the passenger side.

..what the? time warp.

 

Hey Eric, are you sure that your datalog display is actually in PSI and not inHg? The reason I ask is the screen shots you posted back in post# 145 show values of -22.7 and -22.9 for your boost when you let off the throttle (at the very end of the logs). I checked logs I have when running at the track, and I see around -11.4 PSI (which is around -22.8 inHg) when I let off.

Also, looking at the pics of your intake setup, it looks like you aren't shutting off the air intake on the passengers side. With the T-fitting you have, wouldn't some of the compressed air from the turbo get pushed into the passenger side air intake pipe?

 

i see what you mean but it has to be in psi it wouldnt make sense the other way around in inHG i mean. that would mean i am makeing less boost at wot then without the turbo. and i can tell from when im just driveing around b4 the turbo kicks in and after that the turbo is pushing harder then the sc. ill see if i can get more data for you guys next run.

if you look down near the front left of the engine bay i have put a oneway valve to open when the sc is sucking and close once the turbo catches up

 

ill get some iat mesurements next time i run her.

I have a johnson cm30 liquid intercooler pump, 1gallon intercoller tank (bothe pump an tank moved to the trunk), and a LET heat excanger witch is biger then the stock one.

Im sure there is a way to set it up to stop useing the sc but I dont know how yet

 

I beleave your talking about the fuel mods Needswings helped me out with..
you can find some info on it on here Product Category Listing

 

Thanks for the info man and your support

 

boost sensor reads in psi

 

I was just pointing out the one way valve by your air filter which I thought was VERY clever.

Somehow the posts got out of order.

 

Yeah, I just thought it looked a bit odd. Plus with your saying you aren't getting a CEL for over-boost, I thought something might have been out of whack with the pressure reading.

Ahhh, I thought that was just an adapter.


And tunaglove, it looks like the server time got set back an hour after I made my comment, which is why your reply to me came before it.

 

Its plastic so i got to watch the heat on it.. one already melted a lil on the drive to the dragon and back .. baught a new one and moved it to where you can see in the pic's b4 it was up ontop the engine. If this dus not work ill look for a brass one.. seen them at home depo but there a lil to small for what i need

 

Thanks Eric
IAT will be very interesting.
You can put a switch that cut out the S/C, just to test if it works.
If it works, you get 100 hp more, at same intake manifold pressure, and you can name the switch Warp Speed. :-)

 

In theory more like 70-80 but you probably wouldn't even see that because the rotors don't disappear when the blower shuts off. What am I getting at? A blower with stationary rotors is far from efficient at making power due to the insane amount of obstructions that the air would have to pass through.

 

The blower rotors might "free-wheel" under the turbo pressure - but probably still obstruct and reduce intake flow.

 

True........

 

did a few tweeks lowerd the boost a lil fixed some leaks going to put meth on it tomarrow hopefully but heres a run to 160mph .. let me know what you think

 

Impressive numbers and look forward to seeing what you're able to do with 30PSI when you get there! Just a suggestion, I'd grab the tach signal from the cam sensor so you're not getting the spikes in there. That being said, keep up the good work and I hope to see what your little beast will do when you're done.