https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post509592

 

I tackled this, along with regular oil change, spark plug replacement, reseal passenger breather cover due to blowout oil residue on valve cover, and sanding down and refinishing headlights. My headlights have been resurfaced a few time with PlasticX and buffer wheel, but come back worse than before. This time I will sand them down and polish them the best I can, then apply vinyl to protect and tint. We shall see if it works.

The s/c maintenance was the easiest part, Thanks for the write up.

 

I quess this is something I should do...after seeing that dirty oil....

 

It does smell horrible...

 

I changed my SC oil this weekend. Thanks for the writeup, it helped a lot. I had to remove the belt and pulley for easier access. Make sure you have some E-Torx sockets for the two pulley bolts (otherwise AutoZone has a 4-piece set of star sockets for under $10). The MityVac made this job very simple, and I did jack up the back of the car to help move the oil forward. Even at 13k miles the old oil looked and smelled nasty, so I'm glad I did it.

 

Great D.I.Y. thread here! I'm looking forward to doing this as well, but right now I only have 12,000 stock pulley miles. I am getting pulley soon and will do this SC oil change after a few thousand miles w/ the pulley. But now to my question. In researching the info. here, is the stock oil from MB a bottle of part#A000 989 62 01? And at $60., quite expensive. The replacement oil suggested is Mobil Jet Oil II, and the tech.info. says not to mix this with any other oil. Is the little bit of factory oil still left on all the inner surfaces going to present any problem with mixing with the Mobile Jet Oil? The pictures of the two oils are definitely different. The factory oil is completely clear, compared to the Mobil which has color to it. Switching from one type of oil to another in the crankcase is one thing, but this is of course a much more extreme situation. Is this a non-issue, or something to be concerned about? Edit: Just went back and read earlier post about after changing, giving it a good run and then changing again. I guess this would address any possible issue with the mixing concern I posted above. Flushing it seems a smart idea.

 

So after reading this, I'm guessing the MJ Oil II is prefered over the MB #A000 989 62 01 recommended Oil (ex dinasrt below)? Where did you get the MB ref?

I found a source of MJOII in Australia - around $33/quart + delivery (still working on that)

The MB I think is very expensive - something like $130/6oz and that was in 2010 - but over at MB world it was indicated that that that was for an Eaton M62 SC, not the IHI