Wow, I'm starting to like people here even less...
I'm still waiting on Wavetrac to finish evaluating the rear diff I sent them. Of course since I can't get people to commit, only talk **** (like you), I may never get them to actually make one. So put some money up or shut the **** up.

I would love to see this... I scoured junk yards on-line/by phone and finally got a 3.07 diff after 3 weeks... for $600.

Edit-by 'people', I'm only refering to a few... That comment just rubbed me wrong. I'm trying my damnest to get a part made. Unfortunately, I can't afford to front this whole project.

 

BTW, on-topic. Sorry man, it sucks... I know. We'll get a solution, someday soon, I hope...

 

Is this (differential falure) something thats happening to the drag racers or? ....

I would think that has old has our chassis platform is we would have known about this point-of-failure before...
Did Karman assemble our STR6's with inferior parts...?

 

From what I gather, it appears to be those that have pulley/tune (around 340 rwhp) and race with drag radials on occasion. Not saying that's what this is limited to, just some of the recent ones.

 

I'm thinking, slicks, the fact it isn't a limited slip...and one good solid hookup at the starting line would snap a rear end...much like spinning on something wet then hitting something dry...I have seen drive shafts go, snap a yoke in a minute...

 

BTW Buggin....I'd bite if it is a proven product, and a few of us offered to help with shipping and such....it's a tough thing I know....I'm thinking I have one ready to go as well....so, what do you need???

 

Thanks - so it seems to be drag strip related from extreme rear wheel torque pressures from a stop....

I wonder who has the most "launches" on their SRT6 and how their holding up?...

 

Well no one is breaking on the track while launching. Its always just cruising around town. That leads me to think its wheel spin thats causing the failures. Check your burnouts and make sure you are getting a good 2 tire Burn. If your not thats going to kill your open differential. Having 1 tire spinning rapidly then grabbing puts tremendous stress on the differential. Actually getting solid grip with both tires is much better than one loosing traction on the launch. Wheel spin on an open style differential is the culprit of most of these breakages more than likely.


I actually had someone stand behind my car the last time i went to the track to actually watch both tires and make sure i was gettign a clean 2 tire burn.

I had 3 runs and 2of3 runs had 2 tires burns one did not. I'm no longer going to do burnouts to warm up the tires at the track. I plan on purchasing a set of D.O.T drag race tires that require no burnouts for this reason until a positive traction differential can be built.

 

does anyone know the MB part number for a stock NA diff?

 

I doubt anyone has more passes than I do. I probably equal everyone on here altogether. Just guessing at over 400 now. Still running like a champ.

I've said it before but here it goes one more time. Get in the water and stay in there for the burnout. As the tires heat up start rolling out and feather the throttle out. Then one quick test launch to get all the water off. Now your ready to launch. Most show up to the track with street tires and then want to do a dry burnout. The water is there for the reason to get your tires spinning with less resistance.

The problem is excessive wheel hop either at the track or the street. I'd like to know of those who have had rear end problems have never been to the track. The street with poor traction is the car's worst enemy.

A clean launch at the track should be the main concern. If you spin even the slightest, let off and call it good. Save it for next run.

Excessive wheel hop = excessive abuse.

 

Yes, that's why it's important to feather out of the burnout. Our cars don't have the power to snap a shaft, I don't think it would snap a rear end. I still blame hard cornering with excessive wheel hop. Or launching before both wheels have locked up.

 

mine did ,,the first run of the night,, as i did the burn out ,i felt and heard something,, eased into it again, it was fine ,,did tire cleaning ,,everything ok,, ran a 12.67 @106 because ,it was making so much noise,,clunk clunk loud enough for the car beside me to back off,, back in the pits we could seeor found nothing, opened the rear the pin broke and sloted the hole, about 1/4" jim

 

buggins also broke at the track
project mayhem its not possible to get a true equal burnout on the cars as they sit now. if you look at your burnout tracks you will see the driver side has more rubber than the pass side as the power is applied there. until a lsd is built the only way to equalize the power is the p/g which doesnt fix the weak link issue

when you are done racing and remove the d/r's look at the amount of rubber in the fenderwells. i remove almost twice as much rubber from the d/s as i do from the pass. side.

 

you can weld the pin that holds the spiders in place. thats a temp fix. but it just means that when something does finally break it will be huge and dramatic

i still need the MB part number for a clk/slk differential (NA)

 

Without going thru all the search, does an SRT Crossfire have a dif. rearend than a NA? And if the SRT is dif., will it fit a NA rear end housing? Is it a stronger rearend?
I'm sure this has been discussed else where in the forum, so I'll look.

 

they are the same one (srt) is a 307 the limited is 327 and if u install the limited into the srt you get limp mode after 2 gear.

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...ferential.html

Hope I did this correct, Not sure if it'll help, but found this in the search.

 

they are the same one (srt) is a 307 the limited is 327 and if u install the limited into the srt you get limp mode after 2 gear.

Thanks, I would have thought it to be a stronger Diff., not just a change in ratio.
wow, surprized.

 

My NA always gets a good clean two tire spin.........



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHQJiDCdIEg[/media]

 

much like spinning on something wet then hitting something dry...I have seen drive shafts go, snap a yoke in a minute...

guilty, 16 yrs old, 67 mustang 7.25 rear end, Ice to dry pavement, ouch....spider gears became instant popcorn. Re built it using the extra shim in the spiders gears to create a false posi. Worked well, until I hit a chuck hole one day, turned the spiders gears into pocorn again.

A friend gave me a 66 9" Diff. Lock Posi. for a wedding gift.
I ripped the universal joint in half a couple times racing it. They were 3.5" universal joints. I then took a drive shaft assy. from a 390 mustang, 4.0" uni joints. I still haven't tore this combo up.