I have decided to redo my main crank seal as it has been leaking and making a mess of things. The oil seaps past the seal and gets oil on the belt and pullies and gives me inconsistant ET and traps at the track. So before i begin racing again this season i have decided to redo this seal clean all the pullies and replace the belt once again even though i put a new one on in october.

I was surprised when i saw the seal and now know why changing to the 178 pulley might have caused this. Just bumping this thing off center would alow oil to leak out while running and i must have bumped the seal or damaged it during install.

I'm curious as to how difficult it was to pull the old seal out for others who have done this and any tips that could be given before I undertake this and reinstall the new one.

 

Getting the seal out isn't too hard (and pair of hooked/bent needle nose will help), getting it back in can be a pain. I'd take out the fan to have more room as the key is to get the seal on straight and even....its a bit more difficult than I imagined.

Have you replaced the crank pulley before yourself? Don't forgetr that you may want a new crank bolt...if you're running an EC pulley you may need to get it machined (if stock) or get a new one right from them.

 

Its an ASP crank pulley. Yes i canged it myself. Nope i used the same bolt. and torqued it to spec. I will be sure to check the pulley for any burrs or uneven spots and hit it with sand paper if need be.

 

Get a new crank bolt. It's one of those stretch bolts thats only supposed to be torqued once in it's life time. (I'm sure I read it somewhere)

Les

 

The secret of putting these seals in is to put them in squarely. The tool mentioned in the manual is of course ideal. If I was doing it I would want to use this tool or at least make something that was like it. Tapping it in with a punch is asking for trouble and you want to do it correct the first time. Follow the shop manual instructions and you will not go wrong.
Change the bolt when you do it.

 

I would make ever effort to get the correct tool. If you have easy access to a new bolt, get it, but possibly not required. Here is a quote from the service manual:

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Measure the vibration damper bolt. Replace the bolt if length exceeds 78 mm.

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Regardless of new or used bolt, I would apply thread sealer or lock-tight on the threads.James

 

not sure about a special tool, but if I remember I think I used a large socket to help tap it in evenly. A large washer may work. I did use some type of rtv on it I beleive...helped lube it as it went in and ideally would help keep it in place once in. I found a thread out there (Or maybe I created on on it myself and somenone suggested it...not sure what type/color I used anymore)

I'll repeat, I took a long time getting mine in...as mentioned it just wasn't as straight forward as I orginally thought (just getting it evenly was the tough part...maybe whatever this tool is helps on that).

Chris

 

Interestingly there are actually THREE crankshaft seal tools..... two of them are VERY similar and the third is much bigger...must be for the back end.... I'll have to look in the service manual to see which is the correct one.....

edit: okay, the big one IS for the rear seal and the 9103 is the tool for the front seal (NA & SRT)... the 9101 is not mentioned.. it is slightly smaller than the 9103..

You put the new seal on the tool and then just line it up and tap it in.....

 

9101 = "Use this tool with the 9103 Seal Installer to install the Front Crankshaft Seal to its proper depth in Crossfire Vehicles equipped with a 3.2 Liter Engine."

 

Where did you find that part?... I just looked in the SRT and NA service manual under crankshaft seal install and it didnt mention that....

 

It's mentioned in the Student Reference Book. Under special tools at the back of the book. It is a sleeve which is used with the seal installation tool.
Using RTV seems totally unnecessary and it would be a swine to remove the seal again. The manual even says wipe of all oil when installing it. Follow the book and add nothing to the instructions.
These seals have to go to the correct depth, and go in square to the bore or you may end up doing it again. The tool and the bolt set it to the correct depth. If you haven't got the correct tools measure the depth of the old one before you take it out.
Its not brain surgery but it must not be damaged on the inside or outside diameters.

 

You need this link.

Click on the picture of the tool and it gives drawer location and application

 

Thanks very much. That extra info is priceless..... I have the tool box layout sheets...they came with the tool box..

They should have included the 'how to use' pages too...